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Smart Turntable and Trigger For Canon DSLR

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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
9 h
3 plates
4.8(5)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
58 min
1 plate

Open in Bambu Studio
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Released 

Description

Pico-Powered Smart Turntable for 360° Photography

Take your product photography, 3D scanning, and photogrammetry projects to the next level with this feature-rich, Wi-Fi-controlled smart turntable! Powered by a Raspberry Pi Pico W, this project provides automated, repeatable, and precise rotational control for capturing perfect 360-degree images.

 

 

UPDATES:

  • 2025-07-06: New model files. Revised clearances, fixed some bugs, fixed object orientation. Optimized some parts to print floating holes without support.
  • 2025-07-06: Added a version without infrared transmitter. Added freehand wiring option for both. Also added button caps with icons for your customization.
  • 2025-07-18: Big changes to the code. Added persistent way to store settings among other improvements.
  • 2025-07-18: Slight change to the pinout. Old pin used ADC GPIO which might cause issues for some people. Button pin is now GP22.
  • 2025-07-18: Uploaded all the code to GitHub.
  • 2025-07-18: Added screenshots of the control application.
  • 2025-08-05: Added wiring diagram. Full size image can be found on GitHub.

Key Features:

  • Full Web Interface: Control all functions from your phone or computer.
  • Wi-Fi connection: Connect directly to the turntable or make it connect to your network. Enter your credentials to in the source code before flashing the Pi.
  • Automated Photo Sequence: Set the degrees per shot and an optional delay, and let the turntable automatically rotate and trigger your camera for a full 360° rotation.
  • Dual Camera Trigger: Supports both a standard wired remote (via optocoupler) and a powerful IR transmitter to work with a wide range of Canon DSLR/mirrorless cameras.
  • Advanced Physical Button: A single push-button provides tactile control: a short press cycles through calibrated speeds, while a long press toggles the continuous spin on and off.
  • Battery Powered: Dual 18650 batteries can power it for a long time.
  • USB-C Power & Charge: Power and charge the turntable with USB-C chargers. PD is also supported!

 

Basic Operation Guide

  • When it starts up, it looks for known Wi-Fi networks. Two networks can be predefined in the source code. I have my home network and mobile hotspot there. If it does not find any of those, it creates it's own access point which is also defined in the source code.
  • Connect to the turntable (http, port 80) via it's IP or if you're lucky - hostname. Hostname is also defined in the source code.
  • When it starts it automatically spins in its slowest speed. You can toggle between three predefined speeds by single clicking the button near the 3.5mm jack port.
  • You can stop or start the spin by holding that button for a few seconds.
  • The button on the USB-C side is the power button. Single click turns it on, double click - off.
  • You can power it straight via USB-C even if no batteries are inserted. USB-C port also charges the batteries. The charge level display can be seen on the bottom of turntable.
  • The web app let's you start, stop and chose between the same 3 different speeds for continuous spin.
  • The “spin and trigger” feature is only accessible via the web app. It lets you set a number of degrees to spin and take a picture after. It stops after full 360 rotation.
  • You can set some options for triggering such as delay after each trigger, a way to trigger (wired or IR) and whether or not to use autofocus (wired only).

 

Pico W Pinout

# Stepper Motor Driver (ULN2003)
IN1: GP18
IN2: GP19
IN3: GP20
IN4: GP21

 

# Physical Button
BUTTON_SIGNAL: GP22

 

# Camera Triggers
WIRED_AUTOFOCUS: GP9
WIRED_SHUTTER:  GP10
IR_TRIGGER:     GP13

 

# Power & Ground
3V3V(OUT) -> Powers button and IR circuit
GND (any, e.g., Pin 38) -> Common ground for all component

Parts List:

Electronics:

  • Raspberry Pi Pico W: Available on AliExpress
  • 28BYJ-48-5V Stepper Motor with ULN2003 Driver Board: Available on AliExpress
  • CKCS Battery Management System: Available on AliExpress
  • PC817 2 Channel Optocoupler: Available on AliExpress
  • 6x6x7mm Mini Push Button Switch: Available on AliExpress
  • 3.5mm PJ-392A Jack (3 pole): Available on AliExpress
  • 4 Pin JST XH2.54 Male and Female Connectors: Available on AliExpress

Parts for IR Module:

Other:

  • 18650 Spring Contacts (18.5mm): Available on AliExpress
  • 22-28AWG Silicone Wire: Available on AliExpress
  • PTFE Tube (4mm Outer Diameter): Available on AliExpress
  • M2x6 Self Tapping Screw: Available on AliExpress
  • M3x8 SHCS Screw: Available on AliExpress
  • (OPTIONAL) 25mm x 8mm Steel Shaft: Available on AliExpress

Code

Disclaimer: this was coded with Gemini 2.5 Pro. I am not a programmer. I love AI for enabling me to do such things.

 

GitHub

IR Module:

Cut the 20x80mm breadboard as pictured (6x6 segments) and proceed with assembly and soldering. Assembled module fits into the printed case. Case cover is friction fit.
 

Assembling the IR Trigger Module

Components Needed:

  • 1x TSAL6400 IR LED
  • 1x 2N2222 (or similar NPN) Transistor
  • 1x 1kΩ Resistor (for the transistor base)
  • 1x 27Ω Resistor if using TSAL6400 High-Power IR LED (to limit current to the LED)
  • 1x 100Ω Resistor if using generic IR LED (to limit current to the LED)
  • Three different colored wires (e.g., Red for 3.3V, Black for GND, Yellow for Signal)

Step-by-Step Instructions

  1. Prepare the Transistor:
    • Hold the 2N2222 transistor with the flat side facing you. The pins, from left to right, are Emitter, Base, and Collector.
    • Bend the center Base pin slightly away from the other two to make it easier to work with.
  2. Solder the Base Resistor:
    • Solder one end of the 1kΩ resistor to the transistor's center Base pin.
  3. Solder the IR LED:
    • The IR LED has a long leg (Anode, a positive side) and a short leg (Cathode, a negative side).
    • Solder the 27Ω resistor to the LED's long leg (Anode).
    • Solder the LED's short leg (Cathode) to the transistor's Collector pin (the pin on the right, when the flat side faces you).
  4. Solder the Connection Wires:
    • Ground Wire (Black): Solder your black wire to the transistor's Emitter pin (the pin on the left). This will go to a GND pin on the Pico.
    • Signal Wire (Yellow): Solder your yellow wire to the free end of the 1kΩ resistor. This will go to GPIO13 on the Pico.
    • Power Wire (Red): Solder your red wire to the free end of the 27Ω resistor. This will go to the 3.3V OUT pin on the Pico.

The Story

I was working on this turntable for a while now and just a few days ago I noticed this Photography Accessories contest. I rushed it to complete before the contest closes and during the final assembly I physically damaged the Pi Pico. Therefore no screenshots of the web application, no videos of it working and no complete instructions. I did not have full code backup so you'll have to sort the dependencies as well. I'll rebuild it soon. Terribly sorry for that, but trust me, it's amazing!

I hope you appreciate the wiring. This was a horrible decision but I wanted for it to look good in photos. I think I managed that.

Please don't mind the AI description in the first paragraphs. I don't have much time, but promise to do a proper release with build instructions and wiring a bit later.

 

Comment & Rating (30)

(0/1000)

Does the second switch go into the stepper motor control board and if so will it short to ground or do I need two pins? Sorry if it's a foolish question as I'm just now getting into the raspberry pi universe, thanks in advance.
The designer has replied
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Hi! The button connects to GPIO22 and 3.3V_OUT. Both are on Pi Pico. Good luck with your build and please share when it's done! :)
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Replying to @four_oh_four :
thanks alot much appriciated! :) side note just want to be sure i dont mess one of the boards up , so the button next to the charging module will be bridged to the same output or does that one have a fresh set of pins? (i was under the impression that one should go into the stepper motor driver but might be just newbie toughts :P)
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Replying to @user_1932754225 :
Another button goes to the charger itself. One contact to "K" marked pin, another to output GND (not the battery, the output). I missed this part in the description, sorry.
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Update so seems my motor was stuck somehow I sprayed wd40 inside and now it's works perfectly!! Only issue I'm having is with activating the wired shutter control it doesn't seem to activate for some reason I have put it in remote shutter control aswell Thanks in advance for anyone who might have some idea what to check first
The designer has replied
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You can message me privately, I'll help you troubleshoot.
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Replying to @four_oh_four :
Cheers bud I'm still abit new to this much appreciated 🙏🏼
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Amazing design! Was a blast to build and configuring was not bad for a newbie like me haha, tough while everything booted up perfectly in having problems with the motor skipping steps and can't seem to connect trough the IP anyone got any tips and I can figure out what wrong Thanks in advance to anyone who chimes in
The designer has replied
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For IP, connect to your router and check if it still has the same IP. Maybe it had assigned a different address. Does it skip steps in all speeds? Cycle the speeds with button. Maybe my motor was stronger than average. I did configure it to run as fast as possible without skipping on the fastest speed.
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Nice one! I built a similar turntable last April with almost the same functions. Mine can connect to both a DSLR camera and smartphones, and I shared it on Instructables. "Bluetooth-Controlled 360° Motorized Turntable for Product Photography"
The designer has replied
designer
2
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Oooh! Nice work. And I see the pancake stepper motor doesn't really make it that much bigger. The 28BYJ-48-5V is a bit too jerky for my liking.
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I would be interested in the mobile version a link would be nice
Show original
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This is fantastic — I’ve been looking forward to something like this. Would it be possible to scale up the smart turntable’s size? I’m also interested in a customized version with a NEMA 17 motor, 800 mm diameter, and increased load capacity.
The designer has replied
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You can print a larger plate and put it on top, but it would block the IR most probably. I am also thinking about a larger version with proper NEMA17 stepper or a DC motor with encoder cause these 28BYJ-48 steppers are not smooth at all. It still does a perfect job for what it is but would be nice to have a buttery smooth spin with acceleration control etc. But with current time constrains I have it's most likely a project for next year :D
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Replying to @four_oh_four :
Thanks for sharing! This one look great, but can’t wait to see the NEMA17 version in action when you get to it. I’ll be following along for updates!
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everything about this is overkill and I love it
The designer has replied
designer
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Yeah. Scope creep was real with this one. This is not the final version. My current prototype has PTFE ring on the top plate to slide on PTFE tube for near zero friction and a steel shaft for the bearing. Overkill is the right word indeed :D
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Nice design!
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Boosted
Awesome layout and design, that wires are perfec. You should use translucent upper cover to display that what is inside
designer
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really neat design with the cable guides
designer
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Great idea, I will print it
Show original
designer
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