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Zabuza Sword - Kubikiribocho Cosplay Replica

Print Profile(4)

All
A1
H2D
H2D Pro
H2S
P2S
H2C
X2D
A2L
X1 Carbon
X1
P1P
X1E
P1S

Single Color Version - For painting
Single Color Version - For painting
Designer
65.2 h
11 plates
4.9(7)

Multicolor - X1, P1, A1
Multicolor - X1, P1, A1
Designer
245.3 h
11 plates
5.0(2)

Multicolor - H2D only !
Multicolor - H2D only !
Designer
96.3 h
5 plates
5.0(1)

Single Color Faster Printing Thicker Walls Reinforced Joints
Single Color Faster Printing Thicker Walls Reinforced Joints
46.7 h
11 plates
4.7(3)

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
1701
3703
59
113
1.7 k
174
Released 

Description

First read the instructions before printing.

 

This is a multipart 3D model of Zabuza’s legendary Kubikiribōchō sword – fully printable without any wood or metal reinforcements. All structural connections rely on 3D-printed plastic parts, using hex-shaped pins that slot into matching holes inside each segment. The sword is about 1,8 m (6 ft) tall. 

Boost Me (for free)

Boost if you like giant swords! :D

 

🛠️ Important Assembly Notes

 

• Blade:

The blade is split into 6 parts and connects via round pegs (⌀ 30 mm, length 100 mm) that insert into 50 mm deep sockets.

⚠️ You need to print the peg 10 times!

Each blade segment is uniquely keyed – do not swap their order, or alignment issues will occur. Always dry-fit the full blade before gluing!

 

• Handle:

The handle consists of alternating black and silver decorative cylinders, starting with black and ending with silver.

Three silver pieces require supports – if you’re using my Bambu Studio Project, all settings are already applied.

 

The internal diameter is 25 mm, designed to fit either:

  • My 3-part hexagonal stiffening rod, joined together with hex pins (mini pegs)
  • A wooden or plastic dowel, 588 mm long (⌀ 24–25 mm), for extra stability

    → If you’re using a thinner rod, just print an adapter to reduce the inner diameter. It works – I promise ;)

 

Assembly Tip:

Build the handle step by step:

Start with the first (black) piece, insert a hex pin, slide the next silver part onto it, and glue the pin in place. Then add two or three more handle segments, extend with another hex pin, glue again – and repeat until the handle is complete.

This incremental method ensures better alignment and makes the process easier.

Don’t forget: you’ll need a lot of glue for the handle! (See glue tips below.)

 

I recommend using construction adhesive (also called grab adhesive or mounting glue – fast tack, cures within 24h) together with superglue.
Mounting Glue recommendation for Germany: https://amzn.to/448OWYQ
Super Glue recommendation for Germany: https://amzn.to/3Gcl6cJ

 

 

Superglue alone is not enough. Use plenty of glue to fill the gaps around the pins and provide extra stability – but do not overfill the blade holes. A clean, precise fit is crucial for the blade alignment.

 

 

🔩 Tips for Best Results

 

  • Always dry-fit all parts before gluing
  • Use strong adhesive, especially on structural joints
  • Use mounting glue for the handle for extra durability
  • Build the handle in stages, one pin at a time
  • Print all connectors (hex pins, pegs, stiffeners) with high perimeters and high infill

 

 

 

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License

This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.