BSP pipe fittings. All sizes from 1/8" to 1".

Customizable treaded pipe fittings

These are BSP parallell threads. Easily make any straight pipe fitting from size 1/8" (G 06) to 1" (G25). Just combine tread 1 and 2 in Bambu Studio and merge.

BSP is standard plumbing threads in EU. US mostly use another thread standard, NPT. I will add these as well as other standards in the future. I also plan to add hose fittings and quick couplings like Hozelock/Gardena, camlock, Iso-KF, Triclamp etc. Let me know in the comments if you have special thread or coupling you would like me to priortise.

FDM-printed parts will usually not come out watertight. Very small leaks will often occur due to microscopic pores formed in the printing process. This might be ok for some outdoor applications, but it is also easy to fix (see below). 

Almost needless to say, but just to make sure: It is not advisable to use 3d-printed plastic parts for applications where leaks can cause a lot of damage, eg indoor plumbing. Your insurance will probably not cover that.

Instructions:

1– Copy the first thread from Plate 1 to Plate 3. 

2– Make the external threads printable (had to turn on non printable to pass auto file check). Copy the second thread from Plate 2 to Plate 3. 

3– Center both threads. Highlighting the object, right click, center.

4– Highlight both objects. Right click and choose "Merge".

5– The assembled object can now be moved, allowing for making more pipe fittings. 

Negative parts are used in the design. Therefor you need to slice to se the finished object. Also take avoid to click on negative parts when moving objects as this will move only the negative part and cause misalignment.

Making 3d-prints water proof

1– Sealant / laquer

The easiest method and the only one i recommend, is to use a sealing lacquer. I use Dichtol AM Hydro. It is a water soluble (before setting) Polyester-Polyurethan laquer with very low viscosity made especially for making 3-d prints water and gas proof. Just dip the part for 5 min or paint on with a brush. Then let dry for 24 hours (or shorter if heated drying). Probably any sealant like lacquer, paint or epoxi applied will make it water proof, but if the viscosity is high it might not penetrate well into the microscopic pores. This might make the seal fragile and cause issues with changed dimensions on the part due to thick film on the surface. 

2– Vapor polish

ABS can be made water proof by vapor polishing with acetone. Make sure you know what you're doing and use proper precautions and PPE. Acetone is very flammable and can cause explosions. It can also be quite nasty to get on the skin or inhale, especially when mixed with plastic chemicals. 

3– Change print settings

Over extrusion and certain fill patterns can help to make a print water proof. This will require a lot of tuning to get just right and is probably not worth while in most cases.

4– Use a resin printer

Resin prints don't have microscopic pores and should be water and air tight without any extra post processing.

Filament

PETG

Often recommended for water applications.

Good resistance to water. Ok resistance to UV light. 

PLA

Can be degraded by water but in normal temperatures this will take quite som time. Not great UV-resistance. Brittle. Very low resistance to heat. It is however easy to print, cheap and strong. Lacquer can probably help some with degradation issue. 

ABS

Good water resistance. Poor uv resistance. 

ASA

Good water and UV resistance. 

Printer settings:

To avoid leaking into infill it is best to use 100% infill. For pressurized water it is also good to have 100% infill to provide enough strength.