Tire Insert for 1.9" Beadlocks 1/10 Dual Stage RC

Special Note about Print Profiles:

A few of you asked for different sizes and I've created a few new ones. Please choose the right size of print profile for your tires. I suggest printing just one out to test the size, as it's tough to get good measurements of the inside volume of the tire carcass. I find that if I leave some space, the tires act more “aired down"; and if I have a tight fitting insert, they tires don't flex as much, so better for trail vehicles and higher speeds. These are for 1.9" beadlocks.

Looking for a different size insert?

1.9" Wheels - 1/10 scale

RC Tire Insert - 1.9" Piranha - Multiple Sizes by fajitas21

1.0" Wheels - 1/18 and 1/24 scale

RC Tire Insert - 1.0" Piranha by fajitas21

RC Tire Insert - 1.0" - Piranha - Outer Ring by fajitas21

1.55" Wheels - 1/10 and 1/18 scale

RC Tire Insert - 1.55" - UTB18 Capra, RC4WD by fajitas21

2.2" Wheels - 1/8 scale

Tire Insert 2.2" Bubble - Dual Stage RC by fajitas21

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Description:

These aren't an ordinary tire insert for your 1/10 scale RC crawlers, this is approximately version 70-something of a set of prototypes I have worked on for the better part of 2 years. There's plenty of basic inserts out there, but the ones like this are typically behind a paywall, or the files aren't shared at all.

In fact, a very popular YouTuber that participates in the RC world, instructed me to sell the inserts and not the files, because people will copy it immediately. I'm going a different route. I want to share my love of RC with you guys and let you have at it.

Sizing:

• Experimentation is needed, each tire is a little different. Some are skinny, taller, and have a thicker shell.
• 105mm will fit a 4.6" tire
• 120mm will fit a 4.9" > 5.2" tire
• 130mm will fit a 5.4" tire

Features:

• These are medium compression inserts, and you can adjust depending on the filament
  • 95A is going to make them stiffer.
  • 90A is going to make them medium.
  • 70A-80A is going to make them soft.
• One off custom designed for the following conditions:
  • 0.8mm walls designed to print with a 0.4mm nozzle
  • No outer ring, the turbines act as the first compression stage, the bubbles the second stage, and they kind of have a little third stage. These are progressive, and use the shell of the rubber tire to keep them in place.
  • You must use a beadlock wheel, but you already knew that if you're into this kind of stuff.
  • I wanted minimal sidewall flex, but still some give.
• Water proof. They won't work differently in water, which means you can safely vent your tires for better performance. I used to do sidewall vents but now just vent along the outer treads to fling the water our at higher speed.
• I wanted my heavy-ish rig to flex the wheels, grip the big ledges, and not roll on the sidehills. I think my trucks are around 8-10lbs.

Printing Notes:

These are designed for TPU. I've tried:

Overture - a bit stringy but soft. I suspect their 95A is more like 90A. I use this the most.

Hatchboxx - a bit stiffer, prints nicer, but 95A is firm.

TronXY - easy print, quite stiff, maybe 98A

Sainsmart 95A - It prints a bit stiff, but prints nicely. I'd say it's more 98A

I haven't tried Filaflex 70A, but for a lighter rig I bet it would be awesome.

NOTE: These inserts can be challenging to print, but a few notes to make it go better:

• Textured PEI beds are fine, but I'd use a release agent like Magigoo, TPU is tough to remove at times.
• It might come out stringy due to all the travels and retractions. Adjust settings, but know the functional part is what matters.
• Don't use Tree supports. I find the normal supports are easier to remove.
• If you have delamination while removing supports, consider a slightly higher print temp (try 5C increments).
• Dry that TPU if it's tough to print. TPU really does take well to drying.
• I tried to make the print profile as simple as possible, but you may decide you need to tweak a bit.
  • Things to consider tweaking
    • Make sure there's no or low infill, these are designed to just be 2 wall loops on a 0.4mm nozzle. There shouldn't be infill at all.
    • Don't do top or bottom layers, just slows print time and doesn't add anything. Consider this you printing all infill, in a way.
    • Wall loops are designed to be 2.
    • Slow the print down if its struggling. TPU doesn't like to go too fast. Max volumetric speed around 3.2mm/s or so.
    • Consider retraction settings, do some research online, but a good place to start is 0.4mm retraction (default) to instead, try 0.7mm retraction. You will find this setting in your filament process.
    • Reduce or remove Z Hop. I set it to 0.