qiyun

cover

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0.2mm layer, 4 walls, 20% infill

IO Panel Mount (Frankenstein)

mike.hofmann

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&#34;Frankensteined&#34; Versionen of the Power-/IO-Panel. Couldn&#39;t find the one the designer used.Requires:<ul><li>M3x4x4.5 threaded inserts </li><li>4 M3x12mm screws</li><li>Standard 12mm Power Button</li><li>20 Gbit/S USB 3.2 USB-C Frontpanel-Adapter with Motherboard-Header</li><li>Power Reset ATX switch</li></ul>Still not finished with my build. When it&#39;s done i&#39;ll probably publish some more modifications.

Frankensteined Power/IO-Panel

Housing Base

Housing Upper Part

Housing Bottom

Housing Top (magnet enlarged)

Motherboard Plate (modified)

Top Cover (magnet enlarged)

GPU air guide

PSU top plate (to tight for LIANLI)

PSU bottom plate (to tight for LIANLI)

Motherboard cable shield

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GPU & Powerpanel

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PSU Sideplate (modified)

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Heat Insert Test Piece

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PSU bottom plate (+1mm hole)

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PSU top plate (+1mm hole)

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lower shroud (ROG STRIX B760-I)

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Note: This case only fits the Asus Prime RTX 5070! The curve of the Prime is repeated from the case. Other Prime cards may have the same length, but feature different 12VPWR locations and or configurations and WILL NOT FIT!!! Due to lack of instructions and even analyzing various video material, i had to redo a lot of thing. Only during building i did understand the intentions of the desiger about everything comming together. Still i believe i made one mistake about the orientation of the PSU. I managed to get everything together as seen in the pictures, but i think the intention is to have to power connectors on the opposite site (orientation of fan and exhaust is correct).&nbsp;Changes on my print settings to original:<ul><li>Pictures from actual build stage</li><li>Mounting for my LIAN LI SP750 PSU was to tight: enlarged opening by 1mm on psu plates</li><li>Holes for magnets to tight: added modifier to properly fit 15mmx1.5mm magnets</li><li>Printing multiple parts with fiber-filled filaments can result in low nozzle pressure leading to ugly underextrusions: moved parts to individual plates for better print quality</li><li>Added labels to each print plate for easier identification</li><li>Added small test part for testing heat inserts: Holes for inserts are small, so there are no suitable M3 heat-press inserts on the market! You can use M2.5x4x4 heat-pressed inserts or use M3x4x4 molded-injection inserts. There is a difference between heat-press inserts and molded-injection inserts. The latter are a little more difficult to heat press, but it can be done. I strongly recommend you test your inserts before ruining a 12h print. Even a M3x4x4.5 insert will bulge the little tabs where the upper and lower housings interlock, thus blocking assembly. Also note most of the holes are only 5mm deep, inserts may not be taller than 4mm. I used M3 for my build, but in hindsight i think the designer had M2.5 in mind.</li><li>Moved two holes Motherboard plate for better fitment of riser cable</li><li>Added &#34;frankensteined&#34; version of front IO:<ul><li>M3x4x4.5 threaded inserts </li><li>4 M3x12mm screws</li><li>Standard 12mm Power Button</li><li>20 Gbit/S USB 3.2 USB-C Frontpanel-Adapter with Motherboard-Header</li><li>Power Reset ATX switch</li></ul></li><li>Added zip tie openings on cable shield</li><li>Added additional openings for cable routing to bottom PSU plate</li><li>Added through hole for AC Power into the PSU Sideplate</li><li>Modified the lower shroud for a more tighter fit around the ROG Strix B760-I i used.</li><li>Added a cable channel for routing ATX Power behind the PSU</li></ul>&nbsp;Instructions (incomplete):<ol><li>Add 14 inserts to the base: 6 for the power/gpu panel, 4 for the lower shroud and 3 sideways for the motherboard-panel</li><li>Important: Only 6 for the power/gpu panel, check pictures for reference as two through holes must not have an insert (Yes, i made that mistake. Twice!)</li><li>Add 29 inserts to the bottom housing: 17 on top, 8 on the underside, 2 for the front io panel and 2 on the side for the cable shield</li><li>Add 4 inserts to the motherboard plate from top (&#34;fingers&#34; toward you, zip tie opening on the right side)</li><li>Flip motherboard plate and add 2 more inserts for the riser cable from the bottom</li><li>Add 4 spacers (6mm) for the motherboard from top and 2 spacers (10mm) for riser cable from bottom</li><li>Add 12 inserts to the upper housing: 8 on top and 4 more recessed for the upper psu plate</li><li>Glue in four 15mmx1.5mm magnets into the Housing Top and the Top cover (pay attention to the correct polarity)</li><li>lower psu panel receives 6 inserts from the side</li><li>upper psu panel receives 2 inserts, also from the side</li><li>gpu air guide gets 3 inserts: 2 on the top, and 1 on bottom</li><li>Mount power extension cable 2 M3x12mm screws with self-locking nuts</li><li>Mount the power/gpu panel using 6 M3x8mm screws (the power extension is surounded by 6 screw holes, only 3 receive screws, check pictures for reference)</li><li>Check now if you can plugin the AC power cable into the extension plug</li><li>Mount the cable shield using 2 M3x8mm screws to the bottom housing</li><li>Add power-, reset-switch and USB-C Port to the bottom housing:<ol><li>On &#34;frankensteined&#34; version you need to carefully remove the kink protection from USB-C header. Also some clipping on the connecter is required. Screw in 12mm Power Button using the included “socket wrench”</li><li>Clip the ATX switch into the housing (no glue required)</li><li>The USB-C female Connector has one hole that extends over the casing: Cut 1-2mm plastic from the mounting tab with a sharp knife.</li><li>Clip the USB-C Socket into the housing, the original screw holes are not used. No glue required</li><li>Put together the bottom and upper half of the IO-Panel housing and secure with 2 M3x12mm screws</li><li>Screw the whole assembly into the lower housing using 2 M3x12mm screws</li><li>Route cable upward and zip tie like in reference picture (Heat shrinking was a mistake, use zip ties instead)</li></ol></li><li>Mount motherboard plate to the base using 3 M3x10mm screws</li><li>Prepare motherboard: Install CPU, RAM, SSD, Heatsink, fan and attach cpu-fan-cable now</li><li>Important: Connect CPU powercables to the mainboard now (motherboard plate isn&#39;t fully attached at this stage and applying downward pressure may break something if you don&#39;t do it now)</li><li>Important: Connect PCIe riser cable to the mainboard now (see above)</li><li>Mount motherboard to the motherboard plate using 4 M3x6mm screws (Riser cable goes behind motherboard-plate, not between)</li><li>Mount (L-shaped) shroud over the mainboard io shield, with 4 M3x8, screws</li><li>Using 2 M3x8mm screws attach the other end of the riser cable on the back side of the motherboard plate. But don&#39;t thighten the screws all the way yet. Leave some wiggle room.</li><li>Slide the lower housing onto the base</li><li>Turn case sideways (note: onto the short side as the mainboard is heavy and the plate is still only connected via 3 screws on one side) and screw the base from underneath to the bottom housing using 7 M3x10mm screws and 1 M3x14mm screw using the through hole (one we didn&#39;t press a heat insert in, see step 2)</li><li>Connect cabling for power-, reset-switch and USB-C Port to the motherboard</li><li>Place the PSU plate onto the bottom housing</li><li>The PSU plate will create three openings from the lower part, to the upper part:<ol><li>The larger opening on the back right hand side (when looking from the front) is for routing the DC (ATX) cables</li><li>The tiny opening towards the front right hand side can be used for RGB-Lighting (i didn&#39;t do this)</li><li>A small opening on the back left hand side (when looking from the front) is for routing the DC (CPU) cable</li></ol></li><li>Screw in the lower PSU plate with 4 M3x10mm screws from the top and 3 M3x10 to the motherboard plate (note: this stabilizes the motherboard)</li><li>Attach the PSU Sideplate by keying in the 4 &#34;fingers&#34; onto the PSU bottom plate and route the AC extension to the small slot, use 3 M3x10mm screws to secure it</li><li>Remove DP/HMDI-shield from GPU</li><li>Attach the PCIE Power Y-Splitter cable to the PCIE 180 degree adapter</li><li>Connect the PCIE 180 degree Adapter (note the adapter can only be 22mm-24mm wide)</li><li>Turn case sideways</li><li>Slide GPU onto the loosy fixed riser cable reattach with 6 M3x8mm screws</li><li>Tighten the riser cable through the slot in the front side</li><li>Attach power extention cable (c13 plug) to the psu</li><li>Pressfit PSU in the bottom plate (the one with 6 inserts) and make sure it seated all the way in</li><li>Orientation of PSU should have mains power from the left side, DC out on the right side and psu fan intake is pointing to the back (when looking from the front/gpu side)</li><li>Plugin DC power cabling to PSU</li><li>Plugin a 12+4pin 12VHPWR 180 degree adapter to the GPU and the DC cabling (note the adapter needs to be 21mm wide, EZDIY-FAB are fancier but wider)</li><li>Slide the upper housing over psu and screw in using 13 M3x8mm</li><li>Place the upper psu plate over the psu. The 4 &#34;fingers&#34; will fit into a recesses of the upper housing.</li><li>Screw in the upper psu plate in using 4 M3x10mm (note: the plate isn&#39;t flush with the top of the case to allow room for the screw heads) from the top and 2 M3x10mm into the PSU side plate into the side of the upper psu plate</li></ol>

Build stage pictures

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<boostme><boosttitle>Boost Me</boosttitle><boostcontent>如果你觉得这个作品不错，请给我助力</boostcontent></boostme>h2s/h2d/h2c 一体版本已发布： https://makerworld.com.cn/zh/models/2120545-ff04-yi-ti-ban-ben#profileId-2375041 复刻 Xikii  厂长的FF04 itx 机箱，已获得厂长本人同意可以发布 尽最大可能复刻了ff04的每个细节，并改造成适合3D打印的版本。我打印使用的是petg-cf，外观基本看不出层纹，螺丝全部为内六角M3，M3-6，M3-8，M3-8，M3-10，所用热熔螺母全部为M3-4-5，以上配件某宝上大概10元，另外需要一个超长的M2 六角螺丝刀，20cm的。 安装，从下到上，安装完主板后需要全部接好线再装外壳，然后电源，显卡最后装。顶盖同样使用磁铁固定，4颗M15-1.5磁铁。 我的配置： 铭宣Z790i（172x172 itx主板） 14600k 利民sfx750w 散热器利民APX120-x67 华硕5070大师版  关于电源通风口的光，某宝8块的ARGB灯带，安装在内部上支撑的槽里  开关链接： <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer ugc" href="https://e.tb.cn/h.6BRy862CoEbfaRd?tk=QB5xVL4yMGJ">https://e.tb.cn/h.6BRy862CoEbfaRd?tk=QB5xVL4yMGJ</a> HU287 「12MM 带灯按键 复位开关 复位按键 蓝灯 6X6带灯按键 6*6轻触按键」&nbsp;&nbsp;

<boostme><boosttitle>Boost Me</boosttitle><boostcontent>If you like this work, please boost me</boostcontent></boostme>h2s/h2d/h2c All-in-One Version Released: https://makerworld.com.cn/zh/models/2120545-ff04-yi-ti-ban-ben#profileId-2375041 Replication of Xikii Factory Manager's FF04 ITX case, permission to publish has been obtained from the factory manager himself Every detail of the FF04 has been replicated as much as possible, and it has been adapted into a version suitable for 3D printing. I printed this using PETG-CF, and the appearance shows almost no layer lines. All screws are M3 hex socket, M3-6, M3-8, M3-8, M3-10. All used heat-set inserts are M3-4-5. The above accessories cost about 10 yuan on Taobao. Additionally, a super long M2 hex screwdriver, 20cm in length, is required. For assembly, from bottom to top. After installing the motherboard, all cables need to be connected before attaching the outer casing, then the power supply, and finally the graphics card. The top cover is also secured with magnets, specifically 4 M15-1.5 magnets. My Configuration: Mingxuan Z790i (172x172 ITX motherboard) 14600k Thermalright SFX750W Cooler: Thermalright APX120-x67 ASUS 5070 Master Edition Regarding the light for the power supply vent, an 8 yuan ARGB LED strip from Taobao is installed in the internal upper support slot  Switch Link: <a target="_blank" rel="noopener noreferrer ugc" href="https://e.tb.cn/h.6BRy862CoEbfaRd?tk=QB5xVL4yMGJ">https://e.tb.cn/h.6BRy862CoEbfaRd?tk=QB5xVL4yMGJ</a> HU287 [12MM Illuminated Push Button Reset Switch Reset Button Blue Light 6X6 Illuminated Push Button 6*6 Tactile Button]

Replicated Xikii FF04 ITX Chassis

ASIA

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