GMT800 stock axle traction bar bracket templates
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Description
READ THROUGH BEFORE CUTTING OR WELDING!
This is a set of templates to make your own “speed engineering” or “assassin” style traction bars. Simply buy some 3/16" thick by 5" wide steel (about 4 feet) lay these templates down, spray paint over them and cut/drill for your own brackets!
I'll update the description as I go.
This is a work in progress.
Please understand that some measurements may need to be tweaked, some drill sizes may need to be adjusted to fit your specific application. I am currently also working on templates for a truck with the rear diff in its stock location under the springs and will update when I'm done.
Note that each piece is identified by a letter
Use this as a guide to cut the amount of pieces necessary to build the traction bars
A: 2 pieces
B: 4 pieces
C: 4 pieces
D: 4 pieces
E: 2 pieces
F: 4 pieces
G: 4 pieces
The little half round piece will sit on the end of the ½" pipe as a guide to cut the perfect length

Hardware you will need:
4x ¾ heim joint (rod end)
4x ¾-1 ½ grade * bolt
about 2 ½ inches of ½" inside diameter pipe
6 feet(ish) ¾ (ID) schedule 40 pipe
4-5 feet 3/16"x5" steel plate
2x ½"x 1 ½" grade 8 bolts
¾" drill bit
½" drill bit
I would suggest using your heim joints to help hold everything together while welding, and to ensure everything has the proper clearance. Use a small washer or shim in one side to be sure the part doesn't fit too tight, this will help with assembly and adjustments.
Use these images to assemble each piece
Image 1: This is what I'll call the “Leaf spring bracket”. It's what will clamp the spring at the front near the eye. the top and bottom plates will sandwich the spring using four bolts (one in each corner). I added a hole in the center, some prefer to drill a hole through the leaf spring and bolt through it to ensure the bracket doesn't slip.
Image 2: This is the “Pivot”. The corner with the bushing will bolt in between the two ears in the Leaf spring bracket “Image 1”. I would suggest assembling the pivot first, then bolting the ears to it to ensure correct spacing of them. Maybe put a thin washer between one side to give yourself a little room so it isn't too tight. The bushing will be cut out of ½" inside pipe.
The circular part is what will contact the eye of the spring, so I've added a hole so you can add a bushing there if you so choose.
Image 3: This is the “diff mount”, it's what will sit at the bottom of the diff, and will be mounted using the U-bolts that are already on your truck. Simply unbolt them, slide the u-bolts through the bracket then reassemble. You may have to adjust drill size to make these fit, many u-bolts are different. NOTE: when you are ready to weld the ears to the flat plate, assemble them as I have pictured with the 90 degree face as far forward as you like. The manufactured units have it pretty much flush with the forward edge of the plate. whatever you do, just make sure the 90 degree edge is facing forward.
Image 4: This is what the Leaf spring bracket and pivot assemblies will look like when you're finished putting them together. You can see two sets of holes on each piece, this is so you can adjust the position and angle of the bars. one set of holes will allow for a softer launch, the other set will hit the tires a lot harder, so you'll have to experiment to see what your truck likes.




The very last step should be cutting the length of your bars. Have every piece assembled and installed on your truck (have about a 1/8" gap between the face of the pivot and the leaf spring eye)(also, if you're using a bushing on the pad, have that installed)) then bolt the rod ends into place, and measure for the length of your pipe, accounting for the nuts or bushings or whatever will be at the ends of the pipe.
I would suggest to measure your pipe length with the jam nuts at about half maximum adjustment, that way you can make it a little shorter or longer by turning the rod.
If you have and comments, suggestions or concerns I welcome all constructive criticism!
Thank you!
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