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Scroll Frame for Embroidery / Cross Stitch

IP Report

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A2L

Now includes longer side bars
Now includes longer side bars
Designer
10.4 h
4 plates
4.9(16)

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
684
2215
48
35
449
224
Released 

Description

⭐ This is a work in progress! If you print this please share your feedback so I can improve it. ⭐

 

This scroll frame is designed to be modular so you can make one that fits your needs. The width is flexible, and two different length stretcher bars are provided. This frame uses imperial hardware as that's the easiest to find where I am, but I'm happy to make a metric version upon request.

 

Hardware Needed

  • ¼ inch  threaded rod in a length 3" longer than your desired working area (model in photo uses 12" rod)
  • Two ¼ inch by 1 inch long screws 
  • Two ¼ inch by 3/16" nuts

All hardware needs have the same threading, 20 threads per inch is common and easy to find in most US hardware stores.

 

Printing

You will need to print

  • Two side bars
  • Two mirrored dowel gears
  • Two dowel caps
  • Enough dowel middle pieces to make two dowels in your desired length
  • Two mirrored pawls
  • Enough clips to cover most of the width of your fabric
  • Four plastic nuts

There are three plates of parts which are color coded for looks but can also be the same color if you prefer. The plates as they are currently set up will give you a frame with a working area of about 3" x 9". If you'd like more vertical space you can print the longer side bars, which bring the vertical space to 7". To make the frame wider just print as many of the middle dowel segment as you need. Two lengths are provided, 4.25 and 8 inch. If you find you are in need of a different length please reach out to me, I'm happy to export it in the size you need.

 

Assembly

  • Push the pieces of the dowels together to make two dowels of the same length
  • If needed, cut your threaded rod to length
  • Push the rod through the dowels, centering them with at least an inch threaded rod sticking out either end
  • Drop a nut into each of the two outside slots on the side bar. Using the 1" screw, attach the pawls so the lip aligns with the indentation on the side bar and the pawls point to the ends of the bar.
  • Slide the side bar over the ends of the rods with the gear. The pawls should align with the gears.
  • Thread the large plastic nuts over the two ends of the rods. Don't tighten them fully, just enough to keep things from sliding out
  • Place the other side bar on the other ends of the rods and thread plastic nuts over the end

Use

  • Place your fabric with the end about 1" past the groove in one of the dowels
  • Place clips along the fabric, anchoring the tab in the groove. The “tail” of the clip should point to the outside of the frame.
  • Gently rotate the dowel until the other end of the fabric is about 1" longer than the other dowel. Use your finger to push the pawl into place so it doesn't unwind
  • Place clips on the fabric over the second dowel
  • Engage the second pawl and gently rotate  until the fabric is under tension. Do not over tighten! You don't need a ton of tension, just enough to hold the fabric smooth.

Known issues

  • Sometimes the threading on the nuts is a bit too tight to easily thread onto the rod. If this happens, take one of the screws and a screwdriver. Use them to clear out the threads on the nut.
  • The pawls are a bit “sticky” and may need some help falling into place on the gear

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If you like this model please consider giving it a boost!

 

Comment & Rating (48)

(0/1000)

Please make a metric version. I am in Australia, therefore only metric parts are readily available. Here is a boost to help out. :-)
The designer has replied
5
Reply
Happy to! I just need to know what size threaded rod is commonly available. I feel like M6 x 350mm would be a good starting size, but I don't know if it's easy to find.
1
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Replying to @SprocketStudios :
Our major hardware store in Aus is called Bunnings. Yes they carry M6. (not that I know what that means)
0
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Replying to @SprocketStudios :
In Germany M6 and M5 can be bought nearly everywhere
0
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I used M6 threaded rods, bolts and nuts since I only have access to metric parts and it seems to work just fine. But can't tell if it is less smooth than the intended rods. Did skip printing some parts on the stand and used regular nuts instead as I bought extra and it doesn't bother me, but I might print the parts needed, as the nuts do some to get a bit loose with use. Printed to hold a 65cm wide aida. Definitely need the stand for this width as it is too heavy to hold in hand and also a bit wobbly without the stand (stand is by the same user that made this frame, so you can find it on their profile). I printed the long handles but there seems to be an issue with them, the hole to insert the nut for the stand has become displaced so it is not actually possible to insert a nut here as the hole is diagonal. I skipped this and it seems to work fine, but I probably have to replace the nuts I got because it keeps unscrewing as I rotate the frame.
3
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my wife wants one middle piece about 2.5 inches, I tried just adjusting the z axis and it made everything shorter so it doesn't connect correctly. any advice?
The designer has replied
0
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You could use the slicer to cut a longer piece into 3, delete the middle chunk, and reassemble them in the slicer. I recommend using the numeric input for the transform tool rather than dragging it with the mouse.
0
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Boosted
Print Profile
Now includes longer side bars
Printing well so far. Just need to obtain the hardware and assemble.
(Edited)
1
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Print Profile
Now includes longer side bars
LOVE!!!!!!!! I love it I love it. maybe you could design a stand for it?? that would be cool.. let me know!
0
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I used two foot threaded rods and I need to scale the rod covers just a few mm longer and reprint so that my Aida fits correctly but so far I am pretty content with the frame. for the clips I also ended up making them longer in bambu studio so that they held my super wide Aida taut.
(Edited)
0
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My wife would love this... Are you able to make/upload the longer side rails? The description mentions longer side rails (to increase the work area from 3" to 7") but I do not see them in the 3MF file. Thanks!
(Edited)
The designer has replied
1
Reply
Oh, yes sorry I must have forgotten to add them to the final plate. I'll get that updated ASAP and let you know.
1
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Replying to @SprocketStudios :
Thanks! I appreciate you uploading them. I'm printing the rest of the parts and just holding out for those longer rails.
0
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Replying to @SprocketStudios :
Hey, it looks like this hasn't been updated yet. Any chance you'd be able to do this soon? Thanks.
0
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Boosted
hi, this is great project! do you think it can feet a 60cm width cross stitch?
The designer has replied
0
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the width is largely dependent on the threaded rod length, you can print as many middle bars as needed to span the width
1
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Boosted
Replying to @SprocketStudios :
Great, thank you!
Show original
0
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I've printed a frame that holds a 65cm wide aida so it is doable, but you will have to print the stand as well as it is rather difficult to hold it in your hand due to the weight (but maybe that's what you'd do even on smaller frames anyway)
0
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Boosted
Haven’t been able to print it yet, but I’m sure I will as soon as I have finished the neverending list of prints for my kids. I love the idea and the making and also that the designer answers questions.
2
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Boosted
As you based it on the wooden scroll frame - would the clips fit on those? I keep losing them (don’t ask me how) and would love to replace them with pretty ones.
The designer has replied
1
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They are the same size, and theoretically should work. I tried one with my wooden frame and it sits well, but I haven't tested tensioning it.
0
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License

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