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Tikka T3x magazine for Short Action (.308 e.t.c.)

Print Profile(2)

All
A1
P1S
H2D Pro
X1
X1 Carbon
H2C
H2S
H2D
A1 mini
P1P
P2S
X1E
X2D
A2L

0.12mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
0.12mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Designer
3 h
1 plate
4.8(12)

Spring, print in PETG or PC-(CF)
Spring, print in PETG or PC-(CF)
Designer
35 min
1 plate
4.6(10)

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
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Released 

Description

Tikka T3x magazine for Short Action

Most likely fits:

  • .308
  • 6.5 Creedmoor
  • 243 Winchester
  • 260 Remington
  • 6.5x47 Lapua
  • Probably more

Observe, this magazine has just been tested with .308. Please give your experience for other calibers in the comment 

 

This is a hunting magazine. Use it as a replacement, an extra magazine or maybe a fun looking battery AA holder.

 

Look at my other hunting magazines:

https://makerworld.com/en/collections/5483957-hunting-magazines

Printing

The hard part about 3d-printing magazines is the soft materials we are using. The upper part of a magazine needs to be as stiff as possible, otherwise the sides will bulge outwards and the feed lips will not be able to hold the rounds correctly when the spring pushing from below.

 

Therefore PLA-CF or even better a stiffer engineering material like PPA-CF is recommended but ordinary PLA, PLA+ may work for tests. Stiffer also means maximum number of wall loops in the print settings (like 6-7), you can save weight by adding it as a modifier on the top third of the body, the rest can do with 2 wall loops. 

 

The spring is best in metal, reuse an original spring (best), cut an AR spring to length or create your own. I have provided a spring that can be printed but be aware that it will most likely not last very long. It needs to be printed in PETG or a similar material. PLA will not work for the spring. In a good PETG it can last for a season or two if not stored with rounds in the mag between uses (but the springiness will be less and less with time). With a 3d-printed spring it can carry maximal 3 rounds. PC-CF is otherwise the best material I have been using for springs if you have available.

Assembling and after work

As I want the magazine to work as good as possible, I have designed some things with minimal marginals. So you might need to modify the body a little bit so it fits your gun perfectly.

 

  1. The forward lip outside of the magazine is intentionally designed a little long so without modification it might not fit. You need to take a sharp knife and cut it a half mm between testing until the magazine fits perfectly in your gun.
  2. The feed lips above is designed to keep maximal with material for stiffness and durability. So they might need to be sanded a little bit from above for the bolt to move freely when the magazine is inserted into the gun

 

 

Assembling the magazine is quite straight forward:

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