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Irish Tinwhistle -- 3 piece traveler model

Print Profile(2)

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P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1
A1 mini
H2D
H2D Pro
H2S
P2S
H2C
X2D
A2L

0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
Designer
7.3 h
4 plates
4.8(95)

Integrated Slide+Case, 0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Integrated Slide+Case, 0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
3.7 h
1 plate
4.5(23)

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As soon as I introduced my Irish tinwhistles, people have been asking me to make a “Traveler” model: a 3-piece whistle that is more easily carried in a pocket or bag.  A number of people also asked me to include a 3d-printed tuning slide, rather than requiring the purchase of metal tubing to do the job.

 

Introducing the Traveler version of my Irish pennywhistle! This whistle breaks down into three similarly-sized sections for easy travel. And while I'm convinced that a metal tuning slide is the superior option, I'm also including a version of the whistle head with a 3d-printed slide.  I've also consolidated the print settings, and put everything into one .3mf file. Lastly, with all of the pieces shorter, it should now fit on an A1 mini!

 

 

The two body pieces fit together really snugly with a tongue-and-groove system to prevent hole misalignment while playing. 

 

 

In addition, I've re-worked the head piece drastically. I thickened it a mere 0.40mm in my first version after getting some printing complaints. But that had the effect of making the 2nd octave A and B notes very difficult to hit. So I've gone back to the drawing board to address both of these issues, as well as adding a Copeland-style wall around the windway to strengthen the bottom notes.

 

 

As with my first whistle, I feel that a metal tuning slide is the best option, and am including a plate without an integrated tuning slide if you prefer to go that route.  Tubing needs to be: 14mm OD, 0.5mm thickness, and 33mm long.  I source the following tubing and cut to size with a pipe cutter:

 

2/25/2025: I have also added a 4th plate to the profile, with a little friction-fit carrying case.

 

 

Note #1: The joints on this whistle fit together tightly. They will loosen with use. But making the clearance even 0.1mm greater made the joints way too lose. If you find your tolerances aren't dialed in as rigorously, you may need to print the middle piece 1% larger to compensate, but this may affect tuning. You can also try shaving down excess seams, and/or gently wiggling the pieces together instead of sliding them together.

 

Note #2: Running a little jeweler's file through the mouthpiece and wiggling it a little while pressing toward the floor will do a lot to help clean up the sound right off the printer, as shown (just don't hit the blade of the whistle!):

 

 

Comment & Rating (213)

(0/1000)

The print came out great! The sound does not lol not sure what's wrong. I've cleaned it out of any internal strings and defects. yet... it's just sounds bad from the 3rd hole down...
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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do the bottom two pieces fit together tightly? If there's any air leakage in that joint, it could lead to problems in the bottom half of the whistle.
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Replying to @greg.whistler :
on my print the bottom 2 pieces are very loose. what would be a recomended way of fixing this without printing another? im using pla matte
(Edited)
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Replying to @ShinjuNL :
A bit of beeswax on the slide where they join could help close any air leaks. I wouldn't suggest using slide grease on a joint that's already loose, but beeswax is a bit 'gummy', so should help with both leaks and keeping everything together
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I did the file/sanding portion and still can’t get the lowest 2 notes to sound. the rest are fine but I get to the last 2 and it’s airy as all hell. want to hold out on rating until I can see if there’s a fix for this. everything appears to have printed fine. I printed in PETG
The designer has replied
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I really am a little disappointed, worked on this all day tweaking color changing filament to get the gradient I liked and I just can’t get the 2 lowest notes to sound decent in any way…
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Check in the windway to make sure there's no bits of filament and such. Anything that obstructs airflow, no matter how small it may seem, will negatively affect voicing on these kinds of instruments. And it may be worth it to try reprinting the head in PLA as a test. I've never printed one of these in PETG, so I can't speak to its suitability. Some materials (such as wood-infused PLA) won't make a good whistle because the texture of the wood grain causes too much turbulence at the blade.
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Replying to @greg.whistler :
the headpiece sounds fine on its own- it’s when I start adding the body pieces that it deminishes in sound quality. the lowest 2 notes take such low breath pressure to reach Its essentially impossible. do you think filing the mouthpiece a little more would fix something like that?
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0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
Printed well
The profile uploader has replied
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lookin good!
(Edited)
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Hi greg! I saw some of your videos when I did my research on making a 3d printable tin whistle! glad so see you here! I tried to make a whistle in every possible key, I would glad to hear your feedback on one of them, if you have time. I will print your flute as well, I reckon yours is much more versatile then mine ^^
The designer has replied
designer
4
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Yup! Already saw your contest entry...I plan on giving them a test run as soon as I'm done designing a case for the traveler whistle ;)
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Replying to @greg.whistler :
please post a case if you make it and are willing to. I am printing this now and I am SO excited!
designer
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Replying to @IrishJiminy :
13 revisions later, and I think the case is finally good to go. Gonna go take a nap while it prints. :D Hopefully up this evening!
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0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
Looks great. I had air leakage issue between the two lowest pieces. I glued them to prevent leakage and that did solve the sound issue I had with the lowest note.
The profile uploader has replied
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yeah, if the fit isn't tight, that's gonna be a problem. When I print these, they're so tight they are super difficult to get together the first couple of times. But a small handful of folks seem to be experiencing this same issue. Shame you had to glue it, though. That defeats the whole "traveler" concept...i wonder if something like cork grease (or vaseline) would plug the air gaps just as well
(Edited)
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Print Profile
Integrated Slide+Case, 0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
nice print and it really works👍🏻
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0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
This is cool! Now i just need To Learn To play it.
The profile uploader has replied
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I learned on the Bill Ochs tutorial set like 30 years ago :) https://www.amazon.com/dp/1513463292
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0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
wow. Im genuinely surprised. I printed a lots of “instruments” but never works. This is the first one that I genuinely love. Also I wanted a tin whistle for a long time (can’t find it in my country) This… I really out of words. Thank you.
The profile uploader has replied
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So glad! I've been playing tinwhistle for 30 years, and have played professionally in a couple of bands. I wouldn't really be satisfied putting out something I wouldn't play myself!
(Edited)
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Hello, the flute printed perfectly, the sound is excellent One just needs a little practice to get used to it (air direction), and then it's perfect (I play the transverse flute) I will try the version with the metal tube to compare Thank you for this model
The designer has replied
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The metal tube version should sound the same..it just will be more durable!
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Print Profile
0.16mm layer, 2 walls, 10% infill
Perfect tolerances, printed great! My dog loves it when I play!
The profile uploader has replied
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lookin sharp!
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