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Boss WL60 bodypack V2

Remixed by

Print Profile(1)

All
A1
P1S
P1P
X1 Carbon
X1E
X1
A1 mini
H2D
H2D Pro
H2S
P2S
H2C
X2D
A2L

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
2 h
1 plate
5.0(1)

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
3
4
3
0
7
3
Released 

Bill of Materials

List other parts
  • superglue x 1:
  • sandpaper x 1:

Description

This is a new version of my old model. The clip was stronger when printed on its side, instead of upright. The holster itself prints much better stood up.  Although not ideal, this version has the clip and the holster as two separate parts. There are two tiny nubs on the back of the holster, along with the bar to help line up the clip. Rough up the back of the clip and holster with some sandpaper, and superglue them into place. The long end of the clip is glued onto the back of the holster. I know glueing the two parts together is less than ideal, but it's the only solution I have come up with, to ensure that both components remain as trong as possible

Comment & Rating (3)

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Hello there, thanks for sharing. I was looking for insights to build a pouch for my shure bodypack GLX-D1. I was studying your model and have some ideas, that may be usefull or not. Overall, I think the walls are very thick, with 4mm. Since you already printed, do you think it would work fine with 3mm? Instead of chamfer, I would go with fillet. I'm not sure, but I thing it reinforces all the corners. I would fillet the inside of the pouch as well. For the clip, instead of protuding 2mm I would suggest a recess of 1 or 2mm, and maybe add 1 or 2 screws to help with fixing the clip to the pouch. To secure the body pack inside the pouch, I'm thinking of an elastic rope to hold from top to bottom with a hook at the bottom. I will definitly use your idea in order to build something. Have you had the opportunity to try your holsters?
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Hey mate! thank you so much for the tips! This was the first thing I designed so it was very much a learning experience. I think it would definitely still work well with 3mm walls. As for chamfer V fillets, I was having difficulty getting fillets to work in fusion, for some reason or other, so chose to use filets instead, because they looked cool. I have not had any issues with weakness at the corners, so I would say either is probably fine, it's probably a matter of which one you prefer aesthetically. My body pack is held in really well with friction alone. I opted for this design because I can unplug by bodypack from my guitar, take it out of the holster, swap guitars and put it into a different holster on another guitar, mid show, without having to unclip elastic etc. Unless you are throwing your guitars across the stage, I'd wager that friction is probably more than enough. I could definitely see myself doing a V2 design with a recess to glue the clip into, as the 2mm over hang doesn't look amazing, as I usually just print it without supports. But it works for the time being, and isn't enough of an inconvenience for me to redesign it (yet.) Though I probably will when I get some free time. When it comes to designing and building yours, I would absolutely recommend printing the clip and the holster itself separately, the clip becomes really brittle if it isn't printed on its side, and if you print the holster vertically, it won't need much (if any) supporting. I'd print at least the clip out of PETG, but you could probably get away with just PLA for the holster itself. I've also customised my own holsters with my band's logo and my name on the bottom, just in case they get lost. Again, thank you very much for your tips, and I hope some of my experience helps you when you design yours for your sure. Let me know how you get on with it, because I have a friend who is currently looking into getting a wireless body pack, so I might end up printing one of your holsters for him XD
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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