The Ultimate Loop Earplug Case

The Ultimate Loop Magnetic Case - Fits all Loop models (possibly not the Switch, though I don’t own one to confirm).

UPDATES (20-April-2026): 

• Fixed a weak point around the hinge caused by torsion when prying open the case and repeated impact from the magnets closing shut. 
• Increased the hole slightly bigger for feeding the filament in. 
• Added version for 10mm x 3mm magnets if you find the original 6mm x 6mm magnets too strong/hard to open.
• Added version with loop logo.

The Design

The original case that comes with the Loop earplugs tend to break at the front snap point. If yours hasn't broken yet, it will eventually (i've had three break the same exact way). USD $15 for a new case from Loop is a big no thanks.

I tried other designs, but they were bulky or impractical. Since I use my Loops while riding my motorcycle, I wanted a compact clamshell, similar to the original — screw‑top cases are just one more thing to fumble when you're juggling carrying bike gear.

So I designed my own, with three strict goals:

• As small as the original case (40 mm x 17 mm).
• Durable enough to stay shut on a keychain while riding.
• Opens in one piece and easy to drop earplugs in without worrying how they should sit.

The result: a snug, magnetic closure that feels solid and satisfying. Glue is optional — the magnets fit tight.

What You’ll Need

•  Two 6mm x 6mm Neodymium N35 magnets: Super Powerful Magnet Neodymium Magnet NdfeB N35 Strong Permanent Magnetic imanes Refrigerator Magnet 3x3 5x5 10x10mm - AliExpress
• OR Two 10mm x 3mm Neodymium N35 magnets: 10/20/50 Pcs 10x3 Magnet 10mm X 3mm Round Super Powerful Strong Permanent Magnetic Disc 10*3 for Fridge, DIY, Building
• A short 22mm piece of filament (standard 1.75mm) for the hinge pin
• Recommended for keyring attachment: 20mm x 7.3mm triangle jump ring used and recommended as round keyrings can be difficult to attach and don’t align well with the horizontal hole. D-shaped jump rings work too.

NOTE: I've found magnet sizes from AliExpress to not be very accurate, the magnets I had were technically 6mm wide x 5.3mm tall, even though it was sold to me as 6mm x 6 mm so take measurements to be sure.

If you want to use a different size magnet, you can play around with filling the magnet hole by adding a solid part in the slicer, then sizing a negative cylinder (allow for tolerances). Just make sure you align top and bottom. N35 strength magnets are highly recommended for a good secure closure.

Printing

• PLA prints cleanly with minimal hinge supports.
• PETG works too, BUT if you are printing per object - you will either need to slow right down for the hinges, or add a primitive shape of the same height beside it to increase the layer time as the small detail will melt too much.
• Optional: Add ironing if you've got your settings dialled in.

Assembly

1. Cut a ~22 mm filament pin and feed it through the hinge. Leave ~2 mm sticking out each side.  I've allowed for a 1.95mm hole to slide the filament in, but some filaments have different tolerances. You may have to clean or bore the hole further if you have trouble feeding the filament through. A small dab of oil helps slide it in too.

    

2. Heat a flat metal tool JUST WARM ENOUGH to mushroom the ends of the filament (try not to melt the case). Do not attempt to directly heat the entire the print or you'll likely destroy it.

    

3. Magnets: Triple‑check polarity before inserting. They must attract when the case is closed. Get this wrong and you’ll regret it. Press them in firmly until they sit completely flush (a small dab of glue optional).

This is my first proper design and me giving back to the 3D print community after years of printing. Please be kind 🙏