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Orbiting Light Display

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GIF
Contest Winner
Cities of the Future

Print Profile(4)

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P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1
H2D
H2D Pro
H2S
P2S
H2C
X2D
A2L
A1 mini

Lamp Base - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Lamp Base - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
12 h
3 plates
4.9(11)

Lamp Base - A1 Mini - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Lamp Base - A1 Mini - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
13.8 h
4 plates
5.0(2)

Martian City - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Martian City - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
10.8 h
2 plates
5.0(1)

Martian City - A1 Mini - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Martian City - A1 Mini - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
12 h
3 plates
5.0(1)

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
1856
3734
105
125
811
82
Released 

Bill of Materials

Maker's Supply Kits and Parts
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5x50 mm Stainless Steel Dowel Pins (5PCS) - DA036
6004ZZ (2PCS) - EA041
BT2x8 SHCS Self Tapping Screw (20PCS) - AA094
200x1mm (1PCS) - KA008
Maker's Supply Electronics Bundle - ZH038
N20 Single Shaft Worm Gear Motor 25rpm (1PCS) - LA008
Bambu Filaments
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Purple (13602) / Filament with spool / 1 kg
Rosewood (13204) / Filament with spool / 1 kg
Matte Bone White (11103) / Refill / 1kg
Red Granite (13201) / Filament with spool / 1 kg
List other parts
  • 5mm Hole 2/4/6/12 Channels 2A Hollow Shaft 22mm Slip Ring x 1: $6.15 from AliExpress as noted in model description

Description

We make so many interesting objects in this hobby and this base is a way to show them off! The brightness of the light is adjustable along with speed of rotation - you can even make it stand still. 

This base works well to display 3D prints or any objects d'art. This file includes a Martian city model that is sized perfectly to fit within the space for this base and includes lots of shapes and translucent elements to take advantage of the rotating light. For the city, I tried to imagine how certain areas might be open to the sunlight (parks, farms) while other areas are enclosed and connected by travel through tubes. See it in motion:

Components

All of the components for this project are available from Maker's Supply except for the slip ring - here's the specific one on AliExpress that I used

Assembly Instructions (Lamp)

Printed Parts

  1. Electronics Base
  2. Mid Base
  3. Top
  4. Collar
  5. LED Holder
  6. Gear
  7. Motor Holder
  8. Wire Clips
  9. Potentiometer Dials
  10. Power Switch

The images in the these instructions were taken after several parts were already assembled. Please disregard any components seen already installed in some of the initial steps - those components will be covered in later steps.

Press the bearing onto the core top. This won't go all the way to the bottom but should be a snug, level fit. 

Clip one of the SH1.0 wires in half and solder the connectors to the wires on either end of the slip ring. 

  • You will need to use a multimeter to confirm which wire to solder to which & should test this by connecting the LED to one end and the power distribution board to the other before continuing assembly. 
  • It is recommended to add some shrink tubing to the wires. In this photo I had only added it to one side so far.

Pass the wires from the bottom of the slip ring through the hole shown in the electronics base.

  • Note the orientation of the slip ring.
  • Pull the wires so that they are snug with the slip ring at the bottom of the base.

Attach SH1.0 wires to both potentiometers and the power switch.

  • Slide these components into the slots in the base as shown with the power button in the middle.
  • Pay careful attention to the orientation. The power port should be towards the top of the base and pointing towards the right (when viewed from the inside)
  • Press the printed potentiometer dials and power switch through the outside of the base and onto the components to confirm the fit. 
  • Note that the power switch only fits in one orientation. If it's not fitting, try rotating it 90 degrees. 
  • The power switch only has a narrow channel for placement. Try to keep it vertical when applying only light pressure.

Attach all cables to the power distribution board as in the diagram:

  1. Power in
  2. Motor
  3. LED
  4. Power Switch
  5. Potentiometer
  6. Potentiometer

Attach the internal components. Note that you should try to use the loops in the base to ensure that wires will be contained. Because the gears will be exposed, this is important so that the wires do not get caught.

  1. Attach the SH1.0 wire to the motor and place it in the channel. 
  2. Attach the motor cover with 2 screws. This should be a snug fit but the wire should be able to slightly wiggle some. If it's too tight, the motor can seize up.
  3. Press the gear onto the motor. Be sure to align the shape of the gear shaft on the motor to the gear. Press this down fully.
  4. Attach the power distribution board using 2 screws.
Pass through the potentiometer wires and attach the core top to the base with 4 screws.

Starting at the top, press the COB led into the LED holder. 

  • Keep the more opaque side pointing out.
  • Only moderate pressure should be needed.

Attach the LED holder and the collar to the mid base.

  • The LED holder will use 2 screws
  • The collar will use 4 screws. Note the alignment as it is at an angle. 

Both pieces should be attached firmly with minimal to no gaps.

Press the mid base down onto the bearing.

  • Before applying much pressure, ensure that the gears are aligned.
  • The holes on the sides of the mid base can be used if you need to disassemble this part in the future.

Attach the wire to the LED

  1. The LED should slide snugly into the shown channel.
  2. The wire coming from the slip ring should be snug into this channel. This is important because the wire being tight will help ensure that it rotates smoothly without getting twisted (causing friction, noise and potential failure of components)
  3. Depending on the length of your wire, you can pass it through these channels and wrap it around the posts so that it is secured. 
  4. Use the provided clips to hold the wires in place. Try to avoid gluing these but glue can be used if needed.

The goal with this process is to ensure that no wire is loose to cause friction with (and possibly snag on) the top which will be added in the next step.

Plug in the power and test the base to ensure that it's rotating freely without any friction or loose wires.
Slide the 5mm dowel into the top piece. This should be a very snug fit and may require pressing the part against a hard surface like a table.

Press the top down onto the base.

  • You'll need to carefully align the dowel to the inside of the slip ring.
  • There's a slot in the base that the dowel can press into.
  • If you need to disassemble this in the future, there's a small hole on the underside of the base where you can insert a small screwdriver to help press the dowel out of place.


 

Assembly Instructions (City)

  1. Loosen the sliding LED-holding clips. Depending on your filament, this can take some force. I find that extending something sturdy (like pliers) through the hold can allow you to exert even pressure with both hands. Slide the LEDs into the slots and then close the holding clips to keep them in place.
  2. Place the small printed park part inside the smaller acrylic tube and rest it into place.
  3. Place this buildings - note that some have slots for small downs and bearings which can be pressed into place first. The buildings will either press into a slot or loosely sit on the base. You can use glue if you'd like but it shouldn't be needed.
  4. Assemble the 'farm' by pressing pressing the large acrylic tube into the base - place the small white disc at the bottom. Press the 5mm down into the triangular base and then slide the 3 platforms onto the dowel. Place (or glue) the different tree sections onto these platforms and then place the whole assembly into the acrylic tube. Place the top pieces of the 'farm' onto the acrylic tube: the rim goes on first, then the pointed diffuser, then the LED (which remains inside) and finally the cap.
  5. Run the silicon tubes as shown in the closeup photos on this model page - you will need to trim them to fit and glue will be needed to attach the tube into the slot that does not use a metal bearing.

 

Printing & Post-Processing Tips

  • I have only tested these models in PLA using the filaments listed.
  • For the trees in the 'farm' section of the City, I just used acrylic paint on top of PLA Wood filament although you could easily just use green filament. 
  • The textures in the model should print well with a 0.4mm nozzle - I haven't tested with other sizes. Quixel scans were utilized for initial rock textures.
  • A smooth plate is recommended for the parts facing up on the base - this can help hide the border between the rotating light base and the stationary center.

Updates

  • 3/22/25: Optimized part layout so that 1 fewer plate is required for both base print profiles and to default to the Smooth PEI plate.
  • 4/16/25: Updated the Bill of Materials to remove the components needed for the Martian city & this caused confusion for some users. If you'd like to build this part of the project, you will need to order those components individually.

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You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.