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Tiny RC SHERP

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X1 Carbon
P1S
P2S
X1
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H2C
H2D Pro
H2D
P1P
X1E
X2D
A2L

0.16mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
0.16mm layer, 3 walls, 20% infill
6.1 h
3 plates
4.0(1)

Open in Bambu Studio
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To build this you need to print:

1xTop Cover 

1xChassis

2xDrive Wheels

2xIdle Wheels 

4xPaddle Tyres - I used plaFLEX but you can use any filament really.

Printed with .2mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill. Only the body and drive wheel needs supports- touching buildplate only,

 

Electronics Used 

2x MG90S 360° rotation servos 

 

1x5v BEC 

 

1x4CHFS2A micro receiver

 

1x2s 500mah Lipo 

 

1xRadiomaster TX16s 

 

Hardware

8x 3mmx3mm round neodymium magnets

4x M3x6mm button head screws 

2x M3x25mm (2 more if you want to cut off most of the screw and glue into the hole in the drive wheel for looks)

2x OD 9mm ID 3mm Wide 6mm bearings, I scavenged some from and old brushless FPV drone motor

4x M3 OD5mm Height 3mm Brass Inserts

1x xt30 connector or connector suitable for your lipo

Assembly 

  1. Melt brass inserts into the holes from the inside, you need to do this before the servos go in. Screw the servos into the chassis, the screw comes from the outside to the inside through the chassis then into the servo. I needed to use a round file to get the servo mounting holes big enough for a M3 screw. Glue the drive wheels to the servo horns, press bearing into idle wheel, use the 25mm screw through the wheel, then put the idle wheel spacer on the screw, then screw into the brass insert, it needs a little room for the wheel to spin without to much resistance.
  2. Using CA/Super Glue, glue in the magnets in the chassis and top cover. Make sure they are in the right orientation to be attracted to each other.
  3. Solder xt30 to 5v BEC, then wires to the ground and VCC pins on the receiver.
  4. Plug servos into receiver. I used Channel 1 for the rear, left side servo and Channel 2 for the front, right side servo(You could cut and solder the servo wires to the receiver for cleaner wire management but I couldn't be bothered.) Then stuff the wires and receiver down. I used a few dots of hot glue to hold it in place.
  5. Velcro the lipo into the top cover. 
  6. Bind receiver following manufacturers directions. You'll also need to set up the mixing in your radio transmitter, since the TX16S is an OpenTX radio, it'll be exactly the same as any other OpenTX radio. My channel mapping is Channel 1 on Aileron stick and channel 2 is Elevator.                                
  7. My mix is  CH1 Aileron 80%  Elevator 80%.  CH2 Elevator -80% Aileron 80%   
  8. Test to make sure wheels are spinning in the correct directions. Push fit the tyres onto the wheels, I used plaFLEX for the tyres so it friction fits without any adhesives.
  9. Drive and most of all ENJOY!

 

 

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