Uses a 'OLFA' snappable blade... so when your stripper inevitably snaps off the tip of the blade, you can simply snap a new section off, use the screw thread to push the next section into position and continue, without needing to totally reset your stripping workspace. You will need: 3x CS M6 12mm Bolts (or longer) 1x M5 Nut 1x M5 0.8mm thread DIE (for cutting the thread on the long bit) 1x OLFA blade 1x bench vice to use for stripping

TLDR; Steps: - Print without support (add more top layers if you want a smooth surface) - Insert wall-mate hangers and ensure they are as far into the channel as possible. - Press firmly into wall to create locating markers and pull away from wall. - Screw the wall mates in and make sure they are all VERY straight and exactly where they are supposed to be. - Locate and press then slide the escutcheon down and onto the wall to create marks to screw onto the wall. Do this accurately as possible!

Wife wanted some dividers for her Skadis. Excuse the smallest grid size spacings (they are uneven), it was designed for specific brush sizes. Feel free to remix. NOTES for printing… you can either increase the Z scale to be 80mm tall (or taller) or you can use them like I have (with less plastic) just make sure the base has a little flange to catch the top and bottom of the tub. Your experience may differ so please do a test print to ensure size and fitment with your printer settings etc.

neatly hook your Hultarp hooks over 10mm glass/timber/etc. A simple solution for a simple problem.

This is a test for my 1m tall seahorse mould print. I've used this as the small scale casting and while small and fiddly, it was easy to separate the seahorse from the mould