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3dEvangelist
@3dEvangelist
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Born in 1982 in Porto, Ricardo graduated in Industrial Design in 2007 in Lusíada College from the Porto University. The personal side, he is a very communicative person, passion-driven for the communities of open source, RepRap, Blender, Movimento maker. If you don't like the world, you should create a better one!
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The Science of Filament Drying: Rethinking
The Science of Filament Drying: Rethinking
BASE video   I love YouTube because it allows us to access the readings and perspectives of other technicians in the additive manufacturing field. There are many convictions that we, as professionals, share in practice but rarely manage to scientifically validate due to time constraints. After all, we are not academic scientists; our commercial focus is on solving problems and keeping machines running. Sometimes, it is more practical to find a solution than to deeply understand the physical-chemical phenomenon that originated it.The video I am sharing today, while I find it incorrect in some points, brings up interesting ideas that I would like to debate. I don’t claim to be the owner of the truth, as I haven't developed this in a lab. However, as I have studied materials and am an area I constantly research, I share the logic that seems to make the most sense to me.Basic FactsPLA Hygroscopy: Although less hygroscopic than other polymers, PLA absorbs enough moisture to compromise print quality. Furthermore, most brands today sell "PLA+," which is highly additive-rich.Structure: PLA is a polymer with semi-crystalline tendencies.PETG and Nylon: These are highly hygroscopic materials.Hydrolytic Degradation: Wet PLA, PETG, or Nylon result in more brittle parts. The water present in the hotend, under high temperature, causes the breakdown of ester bonds (in PLA and PETG) and amide bonds (in Nylon) through hydrolysis, degrading the polymer.The Myth of "Absolute" Filament DryingThis is one of the most complex topics I have analyzed. In our print farm at Evolt, practical experience dictates that if we want to print fast and with quality, we must dry all filaments.PLA has a low Glass Transition Temperature (Tg), around 50°C to 55°C. As a semi-crystalline material, it comes from the factory predominantly in its amorphous state (coiled on the spool). By drying it in a conventional convection oven (like standard office dryers, Polydryer, or the AMS 2 Pro), the high temperature above Tg induces "cold crystallization" of the material. The filament crystallizes and "keeps the memory" of that curved shape from the spool.For this reason, at Evolt, we dry filaments in vacuum ovens. With reduced atmospheric pressure, water boils at just 40°C. This allows us to dry the filament at mild temperatures, below its Tg, removing moisture without altering the polymer structure from amorphous to crystalline.When drying filament with hot air above the Tg, it crystallizes in a curved state. Since modern filament transport systems are complex and full of tight curves in PTFE tubes, trying to straighten a filament that has stabilized its structure in a curved way causes it to break due to the rigidity of the crystals.In the video, Joshua Van Vleet mentions at 5:57 that the filament breaks due to the hydrolysis process, and he suggests it has to do with manufacturing. As far as I know, this is impossible to happen during manufacturing because no one I know industrially extrudes plastics without drying them first; the machines are designed so that this does not happen! I truly believe the problem lies elsewhere, and the issue of hydrolysis is much more problematic at the moment of printing on the machine.The Impact of Maritime Transport and Cardboard SpoolsThis theory extends to imported filaments. During a sea voyage, the thermal amplitude inside a shipping container can fluctuate by about 30°C between day and night. These daily thermal cycles, over the course of weeks, affect the stability of the material (in my opinion).A curious detail: PLA on cardboard spools usually appears less hydrated. This happens because cardboard is extremely hygroscopic; when the filament heats up during transport, it releases moisture which is absorbed by the cardboard (my theory based on what I have seen in our FARM tests).Manufacturing Process and Print SpeedDuring the filament manufacturing process, the extruded polymer passes through water baths to undergo rapid cooling (ensuring it remains amorphous and perfectly round). In this process, it absorbs some superficial moisture. In older printers (like the early Ender 3s), which printed at very low volumetric flow rates (e.g., 2.3 mm³/s), the moisture had time to escape passively.Today, with sharper and more efficient thermal transitions in the heatbreak of high-speed machines, this surface moisture cannot escape and boils directly in the nozzle, causing micro-hydrolysis. That is why reducing speed helps mitigate residual moisture issues.The Duality: Aesthetics vs. Mechanical ResistanceFinally, I defend that filaments should be printed at the highest possible temperature (within the polymer's thermal degradation limit) to ensure maximum interlayer adhesion. In semi-crystalline polymers, cooling should be the minimum necessary to allow the material time to form crystals, which provide greater thermal and mechanical resistance to the part.However, we hit the eternal duality of FDM: to avoid curling and ensure a perfect aesthetic, PLA requires maximum cooling (keeping it amorphous). If we want mechanical performance, we sacrifice the visual aspect; if we want aesthetics, we sacrifice strength.
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Perfect replacement! My son loves his LiRiQi (LIDL) trains, but a family dog chewed up the wheels on one of them. Instead of throwing it away, I designed a compatible repair kit! 🚂 The project features front wheels (all plastic) and rear wheels with a snug press-fit for a 14x20x3mm O-ring to ensure great traction. Prints perfectly in PLA at 0.16mm. I've also included custom assembly tools and an isometric manual in the file to make it easy. Back on the tracks!
Replacement Wheels Compatible -LiRiQi Train (LIDL)
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My son already had some similar supports that came with a kit, but he needed more to build bigger and better tracks. I designed these based on the original dimensions but optimised the model specifically for 3D printing. They are built to be printed with minimum effort—no supports needed and easy to get right on the fir
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Textured Bridge Pillar - IKEA Train Set compatible
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Stop digging and start building! This is a modular sorting system designed to fit perfectly inside the Large Yellow Creative Storage Box (Ref. 10698). Instead of a messy pile of bricks, you can now organise your collection by colour, size, or type, making it much easier to find the exact piece you need.
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Stackable Brick Box Sorting Trays (Box 10698)
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🔧 Nozzle Wiper for Ender 6 (Using Bambu A1 Original Silicone Pad) I designed a simple nozzle wiper compatible with the Bambu Lab A1, using the original silicone pad from Bambu. The printed part in the photos is made in nylon, but you can use any material that withstands over 100 °C (such as ASA, ABS, or PETG).
Nozzle Wiper for Ender 6
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recently i have printed a benchy on tpu recreus 60a i dontt recomennd but its possible!
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It's been a while, but after some solid testing, I can say this A1 lever mod works great! I've been playing with flexible filaments and managed to print Filaflex 60A — honestly, that’s about the limit for an entry-level machine with a single-gear extruder. I won’t share how I did it (gotta protect my bread and butter 😄), but I will say this: there is light at the end of the tunnel. Reliable? Meh. Easy? Nope. Fast? Not really. Possible? Absolutely.
A1 Extruder Upgrade - Print TPU TPE SOFT MATERIALS
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Prints ok, but I dont think that the part is not verry well design! but thanks for the efort of sharing your design
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The print has come out perfect but is to hard to glued togueder
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As advocates of 3D printing, we should always aim to demonstrate how documents should be configured, much like the Blender Foundation does with its annual “open movies,” sharing short films to teach the community workflows and stimulate user creativity through advanced methods. That said, this is not a new problem, and I have observed in the documents that Bambulab release an increasing level of curation and improvement. This report aims to address this issue further.
AMS litle Top Mount A1 - minimal support
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This project started with a simple idea: to create a dock for the PSP1000. I designed it in Blender because, well, I can! 😎 The base model came from a 3D scan I found on the amazing BitBuilt community forum. A huge thank you to GregoryRasputin for sharing the PSP1000 scan in this thread. Without this contribution, this project wouldn’t have been possible! Now it’s ready for you to print, assemble, and give your PSP the pedestal it deserves.
PSP1000 FAT Charging Dock – Designed for Makers!
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