News

Beta 8.1 is available and is a minor update with only configuration profile changes:

• The new Bambu slicer creates a different support solution which caused a collision on plate 1 and the plate has been re-arranged to fix this problem.
• Scarf seams have been applied across the model for a quality improvement on certain parts, hence you should be running the latest printer firmware and Bambu Studio to take advantage of this improvement.

Also please note the following improvements in Beta 8:

• The arm for the handle option is now offset further away from the gearbox, so that people with longer screws will not have them collide with the gearbox cover any more.
• What was previously the “Extrudr” clamp and spindle option are now the default. This is because this clamp fits the newer Bambu spools with the smaller internal diameter. The original “Bambu” spool is still recommended for those it fits, as there will be less play in the assembly.
• The list of hardware has been revised following feedback about certain screws being too short.

Please note that we provide upgrade files separately in the profiles area so you can upgrade incrementally from any version.

Our authorised manufacturing partner Veetec3D now provides hardware kits, printed parts and even fully assembled V-Spoolers at their Etsy store, for which Fyrby Additive receives a percentage. You can find the store here.

Introduction

I love the Pastamatic and it is a great tool, but I needed to save space and had thought about designing a smaller re-spooler. V-Spooler is a re-spooler that is designed to occupy the smallest possible footprint in a vertical arrangement (hence the V in V-Spooler!) and to be more rigid and portable than other re-spoolers.

This build uses more hardware than most prints and although it may seem daunting I have tried my best to make this as easy as possible for everyone and for it to be rewarding, fun and to give you more choice in how you print whatever plastic you want. I designed the gears in FreeCAD and did the rest of the project in Shapr3D.

If you would like to directly support me it is possible to buy V-Spooler from the store on Printables or join my club, also on Printables. A boost here on Makerworld is also appreciated!

One of the biggest requests I get is for a video of V-Spooler working, so here is a short video. If you would like to see how to load V-Spooler, please scroll to the bottom to find the tutorial videos there.

Which V-Spooler Should I Print?

Which Profile Do I Print?

You Want To Print A New V-Spooler

The profile listed at the top of the list “Full V-Spooler Beta 8” is the full model of V-Spooler. It is updated with every release so you do not have to upgrade when printing a new V-Spooler.

You Want To Print A V-Spooler Option

Look at the options section below and pick one, then go to the profiles section at the top and click “Click to see more…” and print the profile that matches the option.

You Want To Upgrade V-Spooler

Upgrades are provided separately in the profiles list so you can upgrade incrementally from any version. Lets say you are on Beta 3 and you want to upgrade to Beta 5. To go from Beta 3 to Beta 5 you need to do the “Beta 3 to Beta 4” upgrade, then the “Beta 4 to Beta 5” upgrade.

Required Components

Sorry if there are minor mistakes here. I have only counted it once.

• M3 ruthex (or same sized M3x5.7) inserts x52
• 608 bearings x20
• M3x8 screws x8
• M3x12 screws x13
• M3x14 screws x16 (M16 may also work)
• M3x16 screws x3
• M3x20 screws x8
• M3x25 screws x4
• M3 washers x52
• PTFE tube with 4mm outside diameter

Please note that Ruthex/other inserts require that you have access to a soldering iron.

Optional, But Helpful Components

Loctite Blue

Loctite Blue is a thread locking agent which helps keep screws in place. At least one of the screws as detailed in the instructions benefits from a small amount of thread locker. Do not use red Loctite, it is too strong.

When necessary use a very small amount on the end of a screw. This is important for future removal. Do not use it all over the model, for ease of maintenance.

Lubricant

The parts susceptible to friction benefit from lubrication. If you have a PTFE or other lubricant that is known to be compatible with your choice of plastic, when final assembly has been completed a light greasing of the cam will help operation.

Options

The options are provided in separate profiles.

Desk Mounting - Optional desk mounts, the holes in the mounts are 6mm in diameter. You can remove objects called “brace front lower” and “brace rear lower” from the main print job if you want to use these.

Drill Attachment - You can remove object called “gear 8” from the main print job if you want to use the optional drill/screwdriver attachment.

Dust Protection - Stops cardboard particles & dirt dropping on the target spool. It is supplied separately as it blocks the view a little and uses a bit more plastic. You can remove the objects “brace front upper” and “brace rear upper” from the main print job if you want to use this part. Note you will need to be on Beta 4 or later to use this part.

New Bambu & Extrudr Clamp & Spindle - Included by default from Beta 8. Fits all Bambu spools and Extrudr 1kg and 1.1kg spools.

Original Bambu Clamp & Spindle - Fits most Bambu spools with the exception of a lot of newer ones. This is a better option for spools it fits, as there will be less play in the assembly.

Generic Clamp & Spindle - A narrow clamp and spindle which aims to fit more third party spools.

Assembly

Spool Clamp

Install two M3 inserts into the end of the spool clamp.
Screw on the retainer, note that it is a reverse thread. This is so it is less likely to undo due to the rotation.
Install the handle on the end with two M3x16 screws and washers.

Filament Guide

Install two M3 inserts into the holes in this part of the filament guide.
Push through the PTFE tube into this part of the filament guide. Leave some length either end so you can cut it to your liking when it is in place later.   I found it easier to push it into the bent end first.   This part is easily removable with screws for later easy servicing of the PTFE tube.
Now connect the two parts together with two M3x8 screws and washers.

Gears

Install an M3 insert into the end of the gear as pictured.
Install the axel extension on the end with an M3x12 screw and washer.   Note that this uses one of the smaller axel extension parts.
Take the gear that looks like this.
Install an M3 insert in the hole on this side as pictured.
Install the axel extension on the end with an M3x12 screw and washer.   Note that this uses one of the smaller axel extension parts.
Take the final large gear and install an M3 insert in the middle.
Install the axel extension on the end with an M3x14 screw and washer.   This uses the larger axel extension part.
Install an M3 insert into the end of the drive axel.

Left Frame

Take the lower part of the left frame and install two M3 insert in either end.
Take the front left leg of the frame a pictured. Note that this is similar to the right leg, but slightly different - there are not two holes part way up the leg.   There are two holes in the top as pictured. Install two M3 inserts in these holes.
Take the front left leg of the frame a pictured. Note that this is similar to the right leg, but slightly different - there are not two holes part way up the leg.   There are two holes in the top as pictured. Install two M3 inserts in these holes.
Take the left top section of the frame. It is the one with the arrow pointing to the left if you lay it flat on its back as pictured.
Lay out the parts as pictured and also find the thin black lower support brackets as pictured.   If you are using the optional desk mounts, these should be fitted here.   The face of the arch that the arrow is on is pointing upwards in this picture.
Install 2x M3x20 screws and washers in both corners.
Connect the top part of the bracket with 2x M3x14 screws and washers on each side.
Now insert a 608 bearing into this hole, it is an easy push-fit.
Find the two upper supports and install two M3 ruthex in each end of both.   If you are using the optional dust protection part, install the inserts in this part instead.
Install the upper supports (or dust protection option) on the upper part of the frame with 4x M3x12 screws and washers.   Note that these go one way around, the black bits should not stick out over the chamfered edges, if they do they need rotating around!

Right Frame

Take the front right leg and install two M3 inserts in the two holes in the top of the leg.
Take the rear right leg and install two M3 inserts in the two holes at the top of the leg.
Install an M3 insert in the top of each post with a hole in the bearing retainer.
In the central part of the right hand side of the frame install 4 M3 inserts on the holes on the side as pictured.   Do the same on the opposite side.
Install 3x 608 bearings in these areas of the same part.
Fit the bearing retainer over the bearings, making sure the posts with the inserts in are inserted into the holes with matching holes in the back.
Support the bearing retainer from the side it is installed in, and secure it with two M3x8 screws and washers in these holes on the opposite side.
Attach the front leg to the central part of the frame using the two holes half way up with two M3x14 screws and washers.   Do the same for the rear leg.
Connect the top part of the frame using the 4 holes at the top with 4x M3x14 screws and washers.   The face of the arch that the arrow is on should be pointed towards the middle of the model, or it is the wrong way around.
Install 2x 608 bearings in these three holes.

Frame

Take the four orange rollers and put a 608 bearing in each end. They will fall out if you are not careful as they are a loose fit.   Note that there are two flared rollers that look a bit different. Bearings should go in these too.
Move the parts together so they are in the correct orientation for fitment.   Note that the flared rollers go at the top of the model.   It's starting to look like a V-Spooler!
I find it easiest to connect via the top supports first. Use 4x M3x12 screws and washers in these 4 holes.
On the front side, connect the top two holes as pictured with M3x14 screws and washers.   Use M3x20 and washers for the bottom two holes. Repeat this for the rear side.
Find this part and install an M3 insert in either end.
Attach the cam straightener in between the two sides of the frame as pictured and connect either end with M3x25 screws and washers.
Insert the filament guide into the black support beneath it and insert the cam through and into the bearing.
Carefully flip the unit upside down and insert the tooth into the hole as pictured.
Rotate the axel and tap the top of the tooth with a screwdriver gently until it is flush with the rest of the part.
Now squeeze in the insert to keep the tooth in place.
It is suggested to pull these parts out as pictured and let them hang there carefully, to allow fitment of the other gears later.
The next thing to do is to attempt to install all the gears together. This takes a bit of patience and careful wiggling.   Please be gentle, it took you ages to print this!   You should use the either the hand cranked gear with the square large square hole or optional gear for drills/screwdrivers for the central gear if you have printed that separately.
Push the gears all the way in once you have wiggled them into alignment.

Gearbox Cover

Lay down the gearbox cover flat and install 8x M3 inserts in all the holes.   Be careful not to de-form the three ones with the thin outer edge.
Install 3x 608 bearings in these three points.
Install the bearing retainer over the bearings. Attach with 3x M3x8 screws and washers.
Install 3 bearings in the other slots in the gearbox cover.
Install the gearbox cover. There are 5 screws to connect.   The three around the central drive axel should use M3x14 screws and washers. The other two screws should use M3x25 screws and washers.

Handle

This step should not be carried out if you are using the drill/screwdriver gear.

Install an M3 insert into the hole pictured in the arm.
Install an M3 insert in the hole in the end of the handle.
Fit the handle into the hole on the arm, and fit the handle retainer on the opposite side. Connect with an M3x8 screw and washer.
Slide the handle into the end of the axel so the insert hole lines up with the hole in the axel.   Connect this with an M3x8 screw and washer.

Final Step

This part should be left over. Ensure you have removed all the supports from the back cleanly to ensure that it runs as true as possible.

The cross in the back should be aligned with the cross on the drive shaft.   This screw for this part is known to slowly come loose and should be periodically checked, or a tiny amount of Loctite Blue on the end of the screw should secure it. Do not use Loctite Red.   You can use the handle to hold the axel stable. Screw in an M3x16 screw and washer and check to make sure it is fixed and runs true.

Congratulations! It was a long build but you should now have a working V-Spooler!

Using V-Spooler

Here is a short video showing how to operate V-Spooler: