This can be printed in PLA. There is no need for high temperature, flexible, or any other exotic filament. I used Bambu Basic PLA.
There are three build plates in the 3MF file. The first one (Complete) is required, the other two are optional and you should choose to print one or the other of the optional plates:
If you decide you would like labels there are two plates, choose which one you would like to print:
If you are going to print one of these optional Top Mounts, you can disable the Top Mount in the First plate by going into the “Objects” in the first plate and uncheck the selection of the “Top Mount”.
You WILL NEED to do some minor work after printing these parts!
The parts must fit smoothy and rotate with little to NO FRICTION. This means that the Handle Rod must rotate freely inside of the Top and Bottom Mount. Also, the Handle Bottom must easily slide into the Switch Cam.
Please check this before trying to mount it on your printer.
I used a small hobby knife to scrape away the defects and then some sandpaper (I used 220 grit) to smooth the areas where there were some supports.
You will also need to smooth the area where the long rotating rod (Handle Top and Handle Bottom) goes through the mounts.
The part of the Rod that is flat against the build plate may also need some attention to be smooth, especially if you use a Textured Build Plate! Note that it's only required to be smooth in the areas where it passes through the top and bottom mounts, so if you don't want to bother smoothing the complete length of the rod, then it may save you some time and effort.
Lubrication:
After post processing and smoothing the areas and ensuring that that the parts rotate freely and without friction, add a little silicone grease to these same areas. Use the same silicone grease that you use on your printer lead screws. You only need a small amount!
Also add a small smear of the silicone grease to the end of the Switch CAM (the area of the Cam that contacts power switch).
To fasten the top and bottom mounts to the printer you will use four screws (two for each mount).
Note that I used one of self-tapping screws that were left over that held the printer together during shipping.
The Lower mounting bracket is installed first. First remove the lower left hand machine screw (to the left of the power socket) from the rear panel. Then remove the small self-tapping screw which is directly above the AC power socket. To mount the lower mounting bracket, the lower screw is a M3x8 cap head machine screw. Then install the upper screw. IMPORTANT: The upper screw, right above the power switch, is a M3x8 or M3x10 (or slightly longer) self-tapping screw, don't try to use a machine screw here as you are threading into plastic. Note that the original screw from the factory was a self-tapping screw. Don't overtighten the upper screw as you are threading into plastic.
To hold together the long rotating rod (handle) you will need one M3x10 self-tapping screw. (I use one of the M3x8 self-tapping screws that was left over that held the printer together during shipping, even though it was shorter, it worked ok). Note that one outer hole on the rod is slightly larger than the others, this is to allow the screw to be easily started. Don't over tighten this or you may crack your PLA!
NOW! Turn OFF your printer! Then remove the AC power cord!
Then slide the upper part of the long Rod (handle) into the upper bracket. Note that this is the end of the rod WITHOUT the nub at one end.
You will then need to fit the Switch Cam into the lower bracket. It must be oriented correctly! Notice there is a small cutout in the Switch Cam, as well as a corresponding cutout in the lower mounting bracket. These two cutouts must be aligned, and the Cam is towards the AC Power switch. The cutout will easily be aligned ONLY when the power switch is in the ON position!
Sliding the Cam into the lower bracket
Cam installed, notice the cutout is aligned with the cutout in the bracket.
WRONG! This is an example showing the Cam OUT OF POSITION and it will not be able to operate the switch!
Last step is to insert the long Rod with the small nub on the end into the lower mounting bracket. The small nub must be rotated into position to allow the rod to slide into the lower mounting bracket. Then you must position the Switch Cam to align its cutout to allow the nub of the Rod to slide in place. You will notice the rod will side down and then be able to turn the Switch Cam back and forth.
Start of installing the Rod into the lower bracket. Notice where the Nub is located.
This shows the Cam and Rod properly installed. Note that you may need to rock the Cam back and forth a bit to get the rod to drop into the cutout in the Cam.
This shows the full installation with everything properly installed.
Notice that the buffer PTFE tubing and AMS power cord should pass behind the Tube
Test the operation of the top handle to turn the switch OFF and ON.
Turning it COUNTER-CLOCKWISE will turn the power switch to the OFF position.
If it appears to be working, switch it to the OFF (CLOCKWISE) position THEN reconnect your AC Power cord.
Congratulations! You no longer need to reach behind the printer to turn the AC Power OFF or ON!
I hope you enjoy this! It was an idea that I had which took a few iterations for it to be successful and then to refine it get it fully functional. I then took some time to improve its function and to make it easy to install and to print. I wanted the assembly to be easy and with minimal extra parts, and to not use any glue or adhesive at all.
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