Light flood for closed Bambu lab printers

Light flood for closed Bambu lab printers

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Print Profile(6)

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X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

Light Box - MWEdition
Light Box - MWEdition
Designer
26.2 h
9 plates
4.5(180)

Split Side Models for Easy Printing
Split Side Models for Easy Printing
6.3 h
4 plates
5.0(14)

0.2mm layer, different wall and different infill for the parts
0.2mm layer, different wall and different infill for the parts
45.2 h
9 plates
5.0(2)

Updated side pieces! Rotated for easy support removal and NO layer splitting
Updated side pieces! Rotated for easy support removal and NO layer splitting
14.2 h
2 plates
3.8(8)
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Description

Introduction

As has happened in some of my prior designs, I don't like to limit my work only to functional objects, I always try to have them serve as a way to learn something new. With this project, you will have the opportunity to experiment with various printing techniques. Although it is a project with some challenges, it can be interesting and informative for users of all levels of experience. Beginners and intermediate users are the ones who are most likely to acquire new knowledge, thereby taking your printer's capabilities to greater levels.

 

Just a side note, if you permit me, for some reason people ask me what CAD software I use to design most of my projects.

So here is a time-lapse of the design work on this model being done:

What to expect from this module for the X1 and P1 models from Bambu lab:

This module was developed to offer a solution that diverges from what already exists, by aggregating some ideas that I consider to be interesting and trying to improve them. Without trying to detract from the merits of the different solutions that already exist, here is what I propose:

  1. Install a bright, softly diffused light at the central core of the printer. In contrast to LED strips, this light will more effectively illuminate the printer's interior. This aspect is something Bambu Labs ought to enhance in future versions of their enclosed printers. At present, the lighting in the unit isn't consistently powerful enough for effective visual monitoring of the printing process.
  2. Convection ventilation of the printer. There are already several solutions that solve this issue and that are certainly simpler, however this feature ended up presenting itself as something that could be easily added to this project. Again, in the case of closed printers, it may happen that their internal temperature may be higher than is desirable, especially in the case of materials with a lower glass transition temperature, as is the case with PLA. Although the printer has intake ventilation, it may not be enough, especially when the front door is closed, in these cases, the extra ventilation can be very helpful.
    1. Some information about the materials.
    2. What is Glass Transition Temperature.
  3. Raising the height of the top glass cover addresses another issue, particularly concerning the section of the PTFE pipe that connects directly to the extruder. Some users have noted that when the pipe rubs against the glass top, it can lead to early wear and tear, and potentially even clogs in the extruder, especially if the tube bends near it. Therefore, in designing the space for the central light, I factored in this issue and increased the clearance slightly more than the existing setup. If you choose the version without the central light, you'll gain an additional clearance of about 70mm above the original height.

Influence on the inbuilt camera exposure compensation

Printing Details:

In terms of printing, what differentiates this project are two points:

  1. The use of a different material in the support structures in some of the major parts
  2. Print Speed
  3. Use of translucent materials (not necessarily transparent)

1. The support structure’s

This project resorts to the use of two materials, although they are the most common, PLA and PETG, there is a characteristic they have in common that is interesting to explore. These two materials do not adhere to each other, so we can use this combination of materials in order to create parts that need support structures without major concerns regarding the removal of the supports, as well as the finishing of the contact area between the support and the part itself. With this technique, especially for members with an automatic material feeding unit (AMS), there is no need to be afraid of using supports, they can be used without fear of removing them Additionally, they will not mar the surface finish of the part in the contact area.

Dark green interface layer - completely filled and in direct contact with the part

 

See here some of the parts being printed:

This is a timelapse with the normal light of the printer

 

As mentioned before, the printer can reach high temperatures inside the enclosure, so the best is to use PETG for the production of the parts and PLA as a material to be applied in the 'interface' area of the support structure of the PETG part. That said, the glass transition temperature of these two materials (PETG and PLA) is very close, so if you choose to produce PLA parts with PETG supports, or ideally with a specific material to support PLA, (it is likely that you have received some of this with your printer (more information on the bambu lab website)), there should be no problem. However, PETG is always more flexible, and even in solid colors, it can be more translucent. There are many other differences, but these are the ones that matter for this project. To counteract the translucency of the PETG, I've used a very nice blend of PETG with Carbon Fiber, specifically, Bambu Labs PETG-CF Titan Gray

It really prints very nicely.

 

Important

For some reason, PLA Matte does not work as an interface layer in the supports, it creates adhesion, and the generated surfaces have many defects leading to the destruction of the part (I tried several times and always failed). 
A critical factor is to not allow contamination of material between layers, i.e. PETG to enter the part or vice versa. For this, it is important that the Flushing values are always 350 or more, the use of the "Prime Tower" is also advised.

 

For parts that require a support structure with a PLA or PETG interface layer, you should change the following parameters on these objects:

 

TAB Strength

  1. Sparce infill Pattern: Gyroid (Do not try to print in rectiliniar, at least version 1.7.7.89 will cause serious problems with the mixing of components; you can try and eventually the problem will be solved (I have already submitted a report on Github, but at the moment 14-11-2023, the problem is still not solved).

TAB Support

  1. Enable Support: Checked
  2. Style: It depends, but I tend to use tree supports, even if the geometry asks for normal supports on most of the parts, except the right and left spacers, this I tried tree supports but with no luck, but I've manage to have perfect result with automatic normal supports (more info here). It is important to point out that the difficulty I had with the support structure in the right_spacer and left_spacer pieces, seems to be a bug of Bambu Studio, that both in the automatic mode of creating support trees and also in the manual, vast suspended areas were left. See image:

Strange result of the automatic tree support on the current version of Bambu Studio 1.7.7.89 - result may vary on future versions.

  • Support/ raft interface: PLA or PETG - you choose, if the part is PETG choose PLA, if the part is PLA choose PETG)
  • Advanced
    • Tree Support branch distance: 3mm
    • Top Z distance: 0 mm
    • Bottom Z distance: 0mm
    • Angle: depends on the part orientation, but does not represent any major role
    • Top interface spacing: 0 mm
    • Top interface layer: 3 (normalmente uso 2, mas para o tipo de suporte tipo árvore, é mais seguro uma camada extra)

Separador Others

  • Bed Adhesion
    • Brim type: No-brim, this is a thing of this project, other projects may need brim
  • Prime tower:
    • Enable: Checked
  • Flush options
    • Flush into objects support: Unchecked

Other parameters, are by default...

I should point out that some parts of the model were not designed to be printed with conventional support structures, that is, without resorting to a specific material for the interface layer. That said, it is also possible to print in the conventional way, the surface finish in the contact area of the supports will not be so good, in certain cases, the structures can be difficult to remove, especially when they are already on top of the model, like on the left and right spacers.

See support removal for these parts here:

2. Print speed

I was practically able to print all the parts at normal speed (100%) with the exception of the right_spacerand left_spacer, in these two cases, with the materials I used, it was necessary to reduce the speed to 50% due to the detachment of the interface layer of the support structures in a certain area.

I still don’t know why this occurred.

3. Translucent materials

In the case of icons and logos you can choose to use translucent materials, although in practice, both basic PLA and PETG let light through if the piece is not too thick or the material is super dense (like the PETG+CF I'm using, the bet is to test…, Normally, even in thick pieces, light gets through, which is the reason for using foams or black glue tape to make a blackout (more information on this below).

Printing tips for transparent PETG | Bambu Lab Wiki

 

Tested materials.

  1. Front, back, right and left sides
    1. Bambu Lab PETG-CF - Titan Gray
  2. Corners and front extuded bambu lab logo
    1. Bambu Lab PETG Basic - White
  3. Interior
    1. Bambu Lab PETG Basic - Blue gray
  • Interface Support material - This one is very important! Use normal PLA, I used the green normal PLA Basic that came with my printer. In my case, this was the material that I got the best results with. Of course you can go for a easy solution, and that's use filament specific for supporting PLA or PETG, you can find them on bambulab store:

Icon & Logo

Those who do not have an AMS unit, have not had any issues changing the filament manually, however for these cases I provide three configurations for the icons and for the logo

1- Deboss effect. This solution won't let light through, nor will you have color. You can find this on Start_project.3MF

The simplest solution

2 - Effect with built-in elements. This solution will not let light through, but it will have color. You can find this on Tear2_project.3MF.

You can still manage this one with the 0.4mm nozzle.

Intermediate solution, with recessed elements. This will be the most versatile, because it is visually more interesting and equally simple to print (2 material changes).

 

3 - Effect with detachable extruded elements. This solution (most advanced version) will let the light through. In my opinion it is more visually appealing. Also, at the project level, it is the most interesting to elaborate. . (Only available for the configuration with LED strip, at this time available for members of my club of printables.com)

Signage and lighting type logo

If you choose to use this solution (3), make sure you have a 0.2mm nozzle, that will obtain the best results for the icons. The front logo should print okay on the 0.4mm nozzle.

In this case, the front logo and the side signage, must be printed with a 0.2mm nozzle. This element is also necessary.

A little glue will help keep the inserts in place permanently (interior of the letter V, a, b).


Materials used in signage and logo:
As previously mentioned, the ideal would be to create a printing profile with a 0.2 mm nozzle for these situations
- Cold weather colors: Transparent or translucent blue (PLA or PETG)
- Colors for heat: Translucent red or orange (PLA or PETG)
- For the front logo: White (PLA or PETG).

 

Assemblage

This video shows a part of what needs to be done to enter the backlights for the heat and cold icons, but in the case of the example presented here you can skip this step. I was careful to include the YouTube link that jumps to the time that matter to you, but you may see these inserted elements, that I remember, are available in the version for my club members.

If you want to buy the same light I used, I leave a link here, this is what I found with a good quality-price ratio. This is an affiliate link to Amazon.

And, the assembly of the top light

Assembly of Foam strips and glass

In this case, I've opted not to put between the module and the glass TPU, I've used a foam similiar to the one that already is on the printer.

This foam is machine cut by me, if you prefer that to the TPU, you can get it here:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1613839161/foam-strips-for-the-x1-and-p1s-bambu

 

As you understand, I am not responsible for any damage or material loss that may arise from printing this project.

 

Lastly, a solution will be made available that turns on the light when the printer starts the printing process, however this solution will be available only to my club members on printables.com.

At this time and date, the version with the LED strip is still not available to my club members. It will be made available soon.

Nevertheless, you can put a led strip, like the one Bambulabs features on the store on the interior of the frame, and it will be great. Here it is:

The LED strip is this one (affiliated link that will help the creator and will cost you the same, thank you!)

https://shrsl.com/4df3w

 

And here's an affiliate link to buy filament, again it will cost you the same, and may help me a little bit. Thanks!

Filaments used on this project

Extras:

Big thanks to Romain, which was having difficulties printing with PETG on the interface layer of the supports. Here, are his notes:

 

And for the material and flushing

He let a comment on printables.com that some of you may not have access, so here it is all of it:

“EN :
I post my feedback on the riser by Jorge. Before to explain all details I would like to thank you for answer me and help me for own goods prints. The model is very clean. It fulfills its function of cooling (≈28-32°C open et 35°C-40° close), the light make a real plus for visibility on the timelapse, I'm waiting the rest of my filament and my led strip for have hot/cold light on both side.

Assembly :
Everything fits together nicely and without problems. It adapts perfectly on the X1C and the glass enters good in the footprint of the riser. Ventilation shutters move nicely with a small resist for keep a rigidity when they are in position.

Printing :
Come on in the main subject, the print is not complicate really but my guess it's not for all beginners. I had the unfortunate tendency to go "to fast". Left and right spacer it seemed the most complicated to print in my opinion so I start by them.

I had lot of difficulties on the print of support, 3 parts were missed... So I have decided to stop the expenses. I share you my step back which only concerns me but it can help some beginners (like me).

1 - Test of the materials, I used PETG PolyLite from PolyMaker. I did print test, Benchy, heating tower, retract tower until crash test for find limits of the material and printer.

2- Test of support with layer interface in PLA, I drew me a small part and I tested print PETG on PLA. I realized the layer interface need to be full for succed PETG hold on the part. I restart the test until have the quality of the bed !

I discovered "Flush" parameter which can drain the rest of the material which stay in the hotend for not mix PETG with PLA.

I try to make spacer again after all this test and TADAM!! The print is a succes for the firts time.

I note than I must print spacer to 50% (quiet mode) speed, I think the welding of the lines of PETG were better in slow mode.

 

Conclusion :

It's a very good project, it's required to the user to master different functions of BambuStudio, to know its materials and the capabilities of its printer. Thank again Jorge for your help, I go out of this project with more experience and knowledge in 3D printing! :D”

 

Again, Kudos to to Romain. With this settings, he did get success at first try.

 

 

Change log

  • 15-11-2023 - Added 3MF file with colorful and opaque logos, still easy and you can manage with the 0.4 nozzle
  • 18-11-2023 - Added to the "front spacer" one feature that was missing and that helps to fix the center light as seen in the assembly video.
  • 29-12-1223 - A complementary version for the corners has been made available, intended for cases where the fit is deemed too tight, both with the glass and the side and front spacers. If, by chance, you notice that the corners are cracking near the dovetail, then it may make sense to try out this version (Corner_larger_gaps.3mf).

Bill of Materials

Bambu parts
Purchase from Bambu Store

Comment & Rating (472)

Please fill in your opinion
(0/5000)

just to let you know, if the Bambu App is set to „dark mode“ your text ist barely readable. maybe you could change it to a lighter grey.
The designer has replied
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If you highlight it with a cursor, it can be read, just FYI.
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Maybe we should report this to bambulab... this is not ok
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yup came to say this, it's mostly unreadable
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This project is awsome. Works great the label and cold and hot markers could use a little TLC they dont print out that great but this design and the ability to adjust the amount of heat from none to all open and everything in betwen is awsome. Great way to fine tune the temprature in the enclousre. Worth the print without hesitation.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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And if anyone is wondering the best LED's that i found that already are cut perfect for this project no mods needed and is the exact size of the grove in this model, here is the link : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006U5SE7U?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1
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Replying to @masc2279 :
that looks amazing. thanks for posting the make. can you explain what have happened with the icons ? I see you did not illuminated them. the led is all facing inwards:/
(Edited)
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Replying to @JorgeRui :
Yes i did not care for the iluminated icons. The main issue i see is the icons and the text are not flush with the plate they are a few layers above so they do not come out clean on the print. if they were on the level of the first layer the filiment would print flush pressed out flat and be a clean print. But as you can see it just has issues printing at a floating 2 to 4 layers above the plate. If they were flush the filimnet would be clean and pressed down just like the surface making a better finish. I ended up just taking the model slices out a few layers and created a plate that i overlayed for the items which works great. But like i said this is an awsome print, thanks !
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I tried to print this using the supplied support pla material when I got the printer. I have all the settings correct but it will not show the Support/Raft layer, it also shows 0 filament changes. Any thoughts?
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Support raft Base Select base material
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Replying to @Schoko :
I must be doing something wrong. I can not get it to work like his video. Why are ALL my supports now using the support material and not just the top and bottom where they touch the other material? The main trunk of the support tree should still be the main filament from the object being printed, not the entire support being one material and the object another.
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Replying to @RushingRange :
Now you have selected support pla twice. You have to choose the normal pla once and the support pla second
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Thank you for the Design, I searched a couple of weeks for a lid riser because the PTFE tube scratches always over the glass but nothing satisfied me. It's a good upgrade for the light and the PTFE issue.
The designer has replied
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wow that looks cool
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What light did you use, the one he uses the large Ouila plafon is to much, was hoping to use some led strips
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Replying to @PredsFan :
This one: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07GYTSD4K?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Cover: https://www.printables.com/de/model/414106-easy-to-use-light-for-bambu-lab-x1c-p1s
(Edited)
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Print Profile
Light Box - MWEdition
love the concept but even after trying my best to follow the, extremely thorough, instructions this upload won't print... best attempt attached. sadlying have to move on to get this lift/light/venting I'm looking for. :( update: (1) problem falls primarily with the side panels. nightmarishly so. getting this started with petg alright-ish, but a few layers in & the whole thing spegetifies. I've tried every possible combination of adjustments from bed temp, extrussion temp, speed, ventilation and even swapped out filament from bambu to generic and back again... issue is unique to these, as I'm not running into it with pretty much anything else I've printed. (2) I can print these successfully with the filament reversed petg <--> pla but the lack of strong hand holds to pull the petg out results in the parts splitting. (3) added 2nd photo of a small part of failed starts and finishes I have now... last 2 pictures is of the very last attempt I made of printing this per upload with petg. (4) I gave up imidieatly after and resorted to hacking apart the 3d file to creating side walls w/o any vent holes or need for pla. looking at the last 4 days trying to print this I'm realizing the biggest lesson learned is knowing when to give up and move on... should of done this on day one, instead of wasting 3 reels of filament and the time lost in countless attempts. 5th & final update... too clever... this upload is unusable. either the part fails to print due to tolerances on setting being so tight only 1/2% of users are likely not to encounter jaw grinding errors or the finished product catastrophically fails when atempting to remove the support materials (pla included).... my final score now reflects my view... fantastic visual and design intent but this thing is more likely to inspire rage quitting in unaware users thans add the mechanical boosts they are looking for, in this and like upgrades.... added a final photo of a catastrophic failure after printing using elegoo black petg and bambu support pla... finally managed to get this to print out after dialing speed, temperature and z-axis offsets to an eye watering extend--and then babysitting the part print for 9 hrs and adjusting as needed on the fly.... final result tore it's self apart when attempting to separate the pla/support structures... I'll keep an eye on this and if ever updated woth a part that replaces the side panels with something more user/printer friendly I'll give it a last go, heck would give this 4 stars for the detail, work gone into it and anesthetic if only these side plates weren't so impossible.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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hi Felicia, calibrate the material . and try to print in silent mode.
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Texturen PEI plate works better. or Hairspray on the Hot plate. the glue sticks are trash.
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what would you suggest from a calibration perspective... recommend a brand of hairspray... and yes, I tend to agree... less of an issue here than the spegetification after layers 3-5+ though.
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Print worked very well with tree support. Have added additional Dust Filter. Thanks for the Model.
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What did you use for a dust filter? Did you 3d print a screen or get a metal one? Good Idea. When I first saw the big holes I thought of doing something similar, with the printer in my basement.
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Replying to @adamjt :
https://amzn.eu/d/dXfEXg6 I used those PC filter. Just cutted them as I wanted and attached with double side tape.
(Edited)
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Comment améliorer le dessous des coins qui ont eu des supports ? Merci
The designer has replied
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Pour éviter cet effet, il serait nécessaire d'utiliser un matériau de support différencié, en maintenant la distance entre la couche d'interface et la couche supportée à 0 mm. Cela est décrit dans le texte accompagnant ce projet, dans lequel j'utilise le PLA dans la couche d'interface (mes pièces étaient en PETG). Cependant, la meilleure option, sans complications, serait vraiment d'utiliser un matériau spécifique pour le support (https://shrsl.com/4ctbx)
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Replying to @JorgeRui :
Je viens de recevoir mon AMS, et j'ai justement acheté ce filament en question fait uniquement pour les supports. Mais du coup j'ai pris du filament support PETG pour du PETG. je pense que cela est viable, mais il serait peut-être préférable d'utiliser plutôt du filament support PLA. merci en tout cas pour votre retour rapide
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Replying to @JorgeRui :
L'élément dont vous faite référence n'est pas compatible avec le petg et j'ai suivie vaut conseille mais sans succès. Tandis
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Print Profile
Light Box - MWEdition
very nice Design, I love it :-)
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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Thanks for the review and for posting this amazing photos! Just a question, did you use the new corners or just the default ones? Thanks again for taking your time!
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Replying to @JorgeRui :
I just downloaded the model, slice, print and mount. Not sure of its new or old corner design :-) Sorry. I downloaded the model few days ago.
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Replying to @Schmudi :
And no serious problems on the corners? Like the corners breaking or nor fitting with the lateral parts?
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As nice as it is, the tolerances are too small. 1. The worst thing is that the glass pane doesn't fit in even with firm pressure. 2. I had already worked on the outside corners with a file, but they went in so tightly that they burst. And since I put superglue on everything, I can't replace them anymore. 3. I had to sand the sliders with the Dremel to the height that I could even get them in. And the front cover doesn't completely cover the holes. What's annoying is that I used expensive filament from Extrudr Green Tec Pro. The tolerances in Fusion would have to be adjusted slightly.
The designer has replied
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Hi, That does looks ok. you are right the tolerances in your make are very tight. I have to think about it a little to understand what is behind this problem... can you tell me what material did you use one the corners, since that seem to be the root of all the problem; glass/breakings. In the meantime I can easily fix that with a special version for you and others that face this issue. Please reply to me, and I make sure to keep you informed.
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Replying to @JorgeRui :
Hallo, Material was from Extrudr. Green Tec Pro, which is based on Pla. In black and anthracite. I printed with 4 walls and 4 layers at the bottom and top.
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Hi, Just added a new version for the corners. Please check the change log: 29-12-1223 - A complementary version for the corners has been made available, intended for cases where the fit is deemed too tight, both with the glass and the side and front spacers. If, by chance, you notice that the corners are cracking near the dovetail, then it may make sense to try out this version (Corner_larger_gaps.3mf). If you have the opportunity to test this, and reply to me, that will be great! Thanks !
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sry i tried it now 5 times with pla/petg but the support is impossible to remove without cracking anything. i know 7 people who got the same Problem we all 3d print since a few years the only way to make this work is using support which degenerate in water.
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I ran into this exact issue of finished part splitting in half and falling apart while attempting to remove the supports. I figured it out after reading up on PETG and PLA as direct contact support interfaces. The issue (for me at least) was the default flushing volumes were way too low. The same way PLA doesn't stick to PETG for use as support material will cause the PETG primary printing to become very weak if there's even a small amount of "mixing" due to insufficient flushing volumes. When using the default flushing volumes of around 300 the finished print was brittle and fell apart with little force. I increased the flushing volume from the defaults to 550 and it solved the problem. The parts I printed were now as strong as you would expect from PETG.
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