Bambu Labs X1C Spare Parts Case (Version 2.1)

Remixed by

Bambu Labs X1C Spare Parts Case (Version 2.1)

Remixed by
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Print Profile(3)

All
X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1
A1 mini

Updated models 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% Gyroid, Arachne
Updated models 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% Gyroid, Arachne
Designer
38.8 h
7 plates
5.0(14)

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Designer
3.2 h
1 plate
5.0(4)

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
36.7 h
7 plates
5.0(7)

Open in Bambu Studio
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16
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Released

Description

When I bought my X1C, I picked up some spares, and a few more since, so I needed a place for them. I really like some of the spares cases already available, but I also enjoy designing, so I tried my hand at making a case to store my spare parts, and this case is the result.

This case design is based largely on my (empty) Box For Stuff V2.1. Additionally, this case uses some remixed parts from Mr Sullivan's awesome Accessory Storage Case. Specifically, this uses the holders for the full, and partial hot ends. There are some changes to the holding tabs as well from Mr Sullivan's design.

 

This spares case is designed for the X1C, however it will work just fine with an X1E, P1P or P1S since all the spare parts should fit. There are currently no labels for the P1P, P1P or X1E yet, but I may add those labels later, if they are requested.

 

There are two versions of the top, one designed with a TPU gasket, and the other which does not have the gasket, just print the version you plan to use. I've tested both designs (on this and other prototype cases), and the TPU gasket will not make it water tight, there are too many variables to that. I think the gasket helps though. But don't expect to dunk this case, and have everything stay dry. If anyone has a suggestion on the gasket design, let me know, and I may try updating the gasket, it if water tightness can be improved (depending on complexity of the changes).

 

If printing the gasket version of the base, I recommend that you test that your printer can run TPU without issues first. The cap of a sharpie is the tool I use to press the TPU gasket into place. The gasket is not symmetrical so make sure to verify the position before installing it Start by pressing in the middle of the gasket along all 4 sides, then once it's set in position, press in the corners.

 

I printed my prototype case in PETG, and that is what I suggest using, since PLA may be a bit brittle for some of the tabs and printed springs which retain the various parts.

 

.3mf Files are included:

The .3mf files which were generated with BambuStudio, and use a 0.4mm nozzle. Please use my profiles which have the most up to date models:

 

1. X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-9B_NO_PRIME_TOWER.3mf

This file includes all the parts except for the labels and SD inserts. This includes several 2 color parts, which will need either a color swap or the AMS. This is set up without a prime tower for the reasons explained below.

 

2. X1C_Bambu_ToolKit-9B_LABELS_AND_INSERTS_FOR_AMS.3mf

This file includes all the (new 2 peg) labels and SD card inserts, which require the AMS. The prime tower can be used normally on these. You can change the AMS colors and delete any items which are not going to be used from the build plate, before printing this one. For reference, my AMS was set up with the following colors when I set this file up:

  1. White PETG
  2. Blue PETG
  3. Orange PETG
  4. Gray PETG
  5. Black TPU (this one does not use the AMS and needs to be run from the spool holder)

 

If printing without using the included .3mf files, the following may help:

These models are organized into folders to help keep things together (it makes for quite a few folders, but most of them are not required). Most of the folders relate to parts for different labels, since those have different colors and each color is a part (to make it simple to colorize in the slicer). The parts are all designed to print without supports, but they will need to be oriented in the slicer for printing.

 

The print settings I used are the OrcaSlicer defaults, with the following changes:

 

Strength > Infill > Sparse Infill Pattern > Gyroid

Quality > Wall Generator > Wall Generator > Arachne

 

For the TOP and BOT(tom) parts, which have an inlayed label, I recommend disabling the prime tower. It will waste a bit more material, but since these parts take up most of the build area, there is no room for the prime tower. The AMS is only required on the first several layers of these parts anyway.

 

To disable the prime tower (for the Top and Bottom case parts with the inlayed labels):

Under Process “Global” > Others > Prime Tower > Enable (uncheck)

 

For the labels and inserts, which use the AMS, the prime tower can be used without an issue.

 

The following parts will need to be printed in multiples (quantities are in “( )”):

(2) Bambu_ToolKit-7D_TOP_CLEAT.stl

(5) Bambu_ToolKit-8Q_CUTTER_TAB_x5.stl

 

Tips on building it:

I recommend using safety glasses since there are a few parts that must snap in place. You can find a build guide for this on my website here:

https://www.mystoopidstuff.com/bambu-spares-box-build-guide.html

 

This will require some M3 hardware to assemble. Specifically, it requires the following screws:

(8) M3 x 6mm BHCS

(7) M3 x 10mm SHCS

(2) M3 x 14mm SHCS

(8) M3 x 20mm SHCS

(4) M3 x 25mm SHCS

(2) M3 x 30mm SHCS

BHCS = Button Head Cap Screws

SHCS = Socket Head Cap Screws

 

 

 

 

 

If you find these models useful, please post a like or a comment with some pics of your prints.

 

You can find the other things I'm working on at my blog here. You can also follow me here or on Printables, to see what new stuff I post. If you would like to support my work, you can Buy Me A Coffee using this link:

https://www.buymeacoffee.com/mystoopidstuff

Thanks for looking!

 

The model posted here is for personal, non-commercial use only, and is being shared (for free) with the 3D printing community to help us organize our Bambu printer stuff (so we can get it all together, and put in this box…all the stuff…so it's together). The trademarks used in this model belong to Bambu Lab.

 

UPDATES AND CHANGES:

 

Update 12/4/2023 - Apologies, I was looking over this model today and noticed that the draw latch parts were missing. I have since uploaded them in the folder named “Latch Parts”.

 

Update 12/25/2023 - Thanks to feedback from “Stephen Friend”@Printables, who advised me that the handle was missing, I've added that part to the “BOTTOM PARTS” folder.

 

UPDATE 1/20/2024: Thanks to some helpful feedback, the bins for the Wipers and Cutters have been updated.

 

Update 2/10/2024: I had two reports that installing the M3 SHCS would crack the hinge on this and similar models. The problem seemed to be related to slightly different size screw head diameters between M3 screws (I have measured between 4.9-5.6mm diameters). To address that problem, I've updated the files here to Version 2.1, which has a bit more clearance for larger M3 SHCS heads (the pockets are 5.8mm diameter). The new version also includes an update to the label and handle designs (if you need the old v1.0 3 peg labels or handle, see the remixes). The 3MF fils are also now updated with all the current V2.1 changes, including the new wiper and cutter designs.

 

Update 3/10/2024: It was suggested in the comments that since some folks don't use the Bambu Liquid Glue, the space could be better utilized. This remix will not replace the current design, but will be an additional option. The new compartment will also be able to hold the glue bottles (though not as securely as the current design). The changes made for this option were only to the bottom of the case. You can find the remix here:

https://makerworld.com/en/models/243389

Pics of the remix are below, with the door closed and open:

Update 6/12/2024:  The profiles were updated with the following changes:

  •  increased walls from 2 to 3 on all parts
  •  changed infill on the latches, handles and labels to 100% to provide these with extra strength

Comment & Rating (59)

Please fill in your opinion
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
The diameter of the hexagonal screw head recess is small, and interference during screw tightening can easily lead to cracking , causing the axis to split. It is suggested to further increase the diameter of the countersunk hole. Additionally, the closing force of the latch is significant, exerting excessive stress on the axis, resulting in immediate cracking upon the first engagement. It is recommended to strengthen the structure around the axis or reduce the closing force of the cover.
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Thanks for the feedback, but I have printed several of these boxes (or similar design) and have not run into either issue. The hole for the screw head is snug, but not tight on my boxes. There are slicer settings that could affect what you are seeing, but I printed mine using mostly default settings (at least for things that could affect the dimensions). Filament calibration may help as well. I'm not planning to change the design right now, but I will keep this in mind, in case I hear more reports of these issues.
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I had another report of the heads of the screws cracking the hinge, so I am looking into a change to address that. Do you know the diameter of the M3 SHCS you are using? Update - I checked my collection of M3 hardware and found that the SHCS head diameters range from 4.9-5.6mm. I decided to go with a 5.8mm diameter hole for any place where a M3 SHCS will countersink into the parts on this model (it was 5.5mm). The updates also include a new handle design (which should make assembly easier), and a new label design with more robust pegs. The changes have been uploaded, and the STEP and .3MF files are also updated with the changes. Thanks again for the feedback!
(Edited)
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Absolutely Amazing! Everything fits like a glove!
The designer has replied
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Thanks for posting the pics! The color scheme is perfect too, did you use the green PLA that ships with the printer?
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Yeah, PLA Basic
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Boosted
Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Such a great box!!
The designer has replied
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Thanks! Your prints look great too!
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
parfait
The designer has replied
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Thanks, it looks great! I like the idea of using a color change on the door latches, I'm gonna try that on the next one I make.
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Print Profile
Updated models 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% Gyroid, Arachne
great to keep spares and small tools
The designer has replied
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Thanks for posting the pic, it looks great with the textured plate pattern on it.
(Edited)
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
Case printed with eSun PLA+. Doors and inserts printed with eSun PET-G. This case is one of my favorites. Nice design.
1
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Thanks for posting this! I did not see this earlier, but your prints look great!
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
thanks work great
1
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Thanks, your print looks great too!
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Looks very cool, but I personally don't use the Bambu Lab liquid glue which has a quite prominent place in the case. Perhaps it would it be possible to turn that space into an insert for which one could design some kind of alternative? I suppose I can manage to turn it into a more generic compartment with the STEP files, thanks for including them 🙂
The designer has replied
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Hi, yeah the glue takes up a bit of space if you don't use it. I think it could be made into an insert as well, so will have a look at that this week. If not it could be turned into a compartment or two possibly. I will upload another option for the bottom of the case later this week.
(Edited)
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I'm working on this, I just need to test it. The design will change the glue holding area into a compartment (with volume approx 68*152*28mm), and will still be able to hold the glue bottles and is about . If it all works out, it will be posted later this week. It will not replace the original model, but will be an option for folks that don't use the Bambu liquid glue. Update - its posted as a remix: https://makerworld.com/en/models/243389
(Edited)
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I just posted this remix, which uses a door in place of the glue stick holders. It has not been test printed, though I printed the door and frame to make sure those would function and they are fine. The other change was a hole for the box and since I have printed the bottom shell for the case I'm using, nothing else changed and I don't feel there should be any issues. https://makerworld.com/en/models/243389
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I just finished printing this model (which looks great btw!) and I also printed a multicolor label for it. However, the multicolor label only has two knobs and not three and it seems the spacing between the knobs don’t really match the holes in the case. Is there an updated label design?
The designer has replied
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Sorry, the design was updated and I think the 3mf that was posted by the other user was the older version. The only changes between the older and current version are the label design and the handle, as well as some other minor changes to make assembly easier. I know none of that helps you though, and I definitely don't think it's worth reprinting the base just for the minor improvements. I will post a remix with just the old 3 prong tag design tomorrow (I think I have a 3mf which has it colorized which I can edit down to just the tags). Update - the "remix" with the old V1.0 3 peg labels is posted, it also includes the handle, which was the other part changed between the v1 and v2.1. The tops and bottoms were also changed, but if you need to print those, just use the v2.1 models, since the v1 and v2.1 tops and bottoms are compatible: https://makerworld.com/en/models/206916#profileId-227019
(Edited)
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Replying to @mystoopidstuff :
No worries - I designed my own label plate. Will upload it once I tune it a bit since the resulting 3MF file was less than optimal. However, if you are modifying the screw holes on the bottom pieces of the lid locks needs a tiny bit more clearance. I had my screws screw into both pieces of plastic which works but isn’t optimal. Now I just need to wait for those damn long M3 screws I didn’t have in my stash before I can assemble everything.
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Replying to @agehall :
Hi, the v2.1 files have additional clearance for the screw heads (there seems to a good deal of variation on M3 SHCS head diameters). The remix I posted has the 3 prong labels (for the AMS) which will work with the V1 design you have as well.
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Print Profile
Updated models 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% Gyroid, Arachne
Working my way through these for the case, I'll post some pictures of it complete :D
The designer has replied
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Will be cool to see how it turns out for you, good luck and if you have questions please ask.
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going well so far, the transparent orange looks great. First ever PETG print.
(Edited)
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Replying to @SmellyLlama :
PETG can be a more difficult material to print with, so pretty good for a first print with it! Thanks for the boost point too!
(Edited)
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