Tramming, the Machinist way.

Tramming, the Machinist way.

Boost
49
89
55

Print Profile(1)

All
X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

0.25mm layer, 4 walls, 25% infill
0.25mm layer, 4 walls, 25% infill
Designer
1.8 h
1 plate
4.7(9)

Boost
49
89
55
0
95
48
Released

Description

11-17-23 Updated information.

Here, the old guy's solution to level the bed “Tramming”.  I jammed the table with an object under it and had it out of alignment.  The printer was still printing, but I could see the table going up and down as the head printed from the front to the back (Bed compensation). My old "See Me CNC" (old 3D printer) did have a cool G-code (M420) to map the table and see the result on the screen with a Z-offset.  I didn't figure out how to do the same on this printer, so I pulled out a 1" dial indicator (.001" resolution) and designed this thing.

 

Here is where you can get a dial indicator (or information about it. Amazon have it under 15$ [WEN #10703 ASIN B0BFFW2335]

https://www.amazon.com/WEN-10703-Precision-Indicator-Resolution/dp/B0BFFW2335/ref=sr_1_20?crid=313LWDGBOT500&keywords=dial%2Bindicator%2Bmetric%2B25mm&qid=1700221195&sprefix=dial%2Bindicator%2B25mm%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-20&th=1

I wish it to be metric, but you are looking to be zero side to side and front to back (in the middle), and Zero is the same with any unit. So you know .001" is 0.0254mm, a fine hair split in 4…

It isn't pleasant looking, but it works.

 

Operations:

-“Home the Printer” First. (Press home on the screen). The nuzzle should be 10mm above the table.

-With the "arrow", move the head to the center in the front of the table.

-Install that rig, and you need to go “Z” up a few mm until you have a reading on the dial, one mm at a time.

The dial and the rig should only be in contact with the rails, nothing else.

-Turn the printer power off.

-Proceeded to “Read” the middle in front and make the two sides the same +/-.0005" with the adjustment screws under the table. Move the head slowly and gently. Ensure not to “Hit” anything and keep a light down pressure on the rig to keep good contact with the rails.

Mesure twice or 3 times before adjusting anything. Take your time. It's precision work.

-Moved to the mid back and adjusted it to match the two other front corners. The same thing applies. Go back and forward 10 times before you adjust anything. Don't go more than .004"[0.10mm] at the time.

-remove the rig, and power the printer.

-A calibration of the printer is required.

 

Voila, all under .001" [ 0.025mm]. Now everything is flat and square like new or better.

Take your time and go point to point 10 times, adjusting no more than .004"[0.10mm] at the time. It should be less than half of a turn away. It could be more if you mess up your table badly like I did.

 

I printed it in ABS and made it stiffer than it needed. The dial bore is 9.5mm (3/8"). I didn't use inserts or nuts. I tap it. The clamp screws are (2) M5 x 16, and the probe is M4 x 10. The screws are not necessary. The fit size to size is sufficient, but hey, that makes it more extraordinary looking. LOL

 

PS:  I'm working on a Euro model but missing information about the available sizes.

 

Enjoy…

Comment & Rating (55)

Please fill in your opinion
(0/5000)

got the top half. had to spit on it then it went right in. lol. as for the bottom I need to reprint because I didn't take that little screw head off the gauge. I guess I shouldn't be messing with this stuff on my 6th day of grave yard. 🙃
The designer has replied
0
Reply
One done, one to go... At first, I did want to make the probe extension go over the knurled nut, but they vary from one manufacturer to another (as much in length and diameter) and may make things unstable.it's not a bad idea to warm it up a little (~under 150c) and open it up without the screw (with a small screwdriver). Something over 4.5mm. Then let it cool. When cool, add the screw. Then it will be nice and tight
0
Reply
so I have one more question. so I was reading the bambu wiki about trammi g and they suggest loosening the bed screws so they are all at an even set point that give you a near even starting point. Should I follow that or is it not needed with your method. also should I shoot for a final measure of zero or just make it as close as possible across the bed. thanks for all your help. I'm such a newbie at bambu products. Give me an ender and I'm solid lol.
0
Reply
well I think k I'm still a little off on the bottom left. everything else is fantastic. think the nozzle is a little too close on the bottom left.
0
Reply
Whelp, I guess my very shabby Polymaker ASA overhangs don't matter because the metric gauge I sourced has an 8mm shaft so I need to reprint it anyway! Gonna need that "rest of the world" model please!
The designer has replied
0
Reply
I'm on hold for someone who can be a bit more specific. What standard depth is commonly used in the "rest of the world"? I did look in suppliers, and the 10, 20, 25, and 30mm stroke are the most used. I need to know the pin size and the stroke-like; 8mm stem with a probe of 25mm that is 4.5mm If you can assist me, I would appreciate it. Thanks for the interrest.
1
Reply
Replying to @luckyluc.64 :
Hi luckyluc.64, I have finally run the calipers over my millimeter gauge here. Hopefully the quick and dirty CAD drawing will communicate the necessary dimensions. Elementary changes have to be necking down the clamp to match the 8mm shaft. It may also need to be thinned a little - the main body of the gauge is 53.3mm but the bezel comes in at 58.1mm. Your current design collides with it so you need to have the clamp area less than 15.8mm thick so there's no overlap onto the chamfer and no interferance with the bezel. I removed the ball end so the shaft diameter is full length @ 12.6mm. Gauge is rated as a "10mm" unit. M2.5 thread in the bottom to screw the ball end or extension shafts into.
0
Reply
Replying to @luckyluc.64 :
I am sitting here wondering if it's possible to write some custom gcode that has the machine move itself around as needed for measuring and tramming. That will also allow for the bed to be actively heated and doing whatever warping it does at print temperatures.
0
Reply
get it done! green abs.
The designer has replied
0
Reply
It looks perfect. Ya, go Green.
1
Reply
Love it! I will print this out ASAP, my bed is not flat... As a heads up though, someone probably mentioned it already, but the bed moving up and down isn't always the bed adjusting for level. It is most likely Z hop if it is drastic enough for you to notice.
The designer has replied
0
Reply
Thanks for the head-up. I have been around many 3D printers and even built my own about 6 years ago. I know the Z-up. I did jam a piece under the bed and throw it out of wack. It was still printing, but I could see the bed moving up and down as it printed the wall of a large piece (Z-Comp.). I couldn't "plot a map", Like on another printer and adjust the table. Then I created that, but since then, I have noticed that it is good to adjust it once a month or so. Thanks for downloading it.
0
Reply
Replying to @luckyluc.64 :
Yeah, I think the hidden bed map thing is intentional. The bambu lab printer beds are notorious for poor flatness. Doesn't matter if your beds are perfectly level if the bed's not flat, my first bed was extremely out of true. This one sucks too. I shimmed it with feeler guages, a starrett straight edge and aluminum tape.
0
Reply
Replying to @mking88 :
I got that link of a Gineus programmer who works a way to see the probing result. It requires some software to view it on his site and transfer the data... It sounds great, but, at the same time, it raises some flags. Here: https://www.wolfwithsword.com/bambulab-bed-mesh/?fbclid=IwAR3CdopcVGXPAmiIdhej3iTOlWMxxB_EW0_EMCVShRLm0eJafsX84Ka8LXE. I don't know if I should go for it or not. I may be good just with my dumb rig...
0
Reply
Question why are you not allowing remixes? I remixed the probe to fit a Mitutoyo and added a nut for clamping.
The designer has replied
0
Reply
Well, @PrintingMopho, I don't really have a significant objection, but I got burned by a "no scrupulous" incompetent guy. I can't even call him a maker. He took my model, added an unnecessary feature, making it unprintable, then pretended it was his design and said I copied him. On top of that, he did have the guts to say my model was just garbage... Since then, I have locked all my designs. If you want an adaptation, I'll gladly make it for you. It will take me just a few minutes.
0
Reply
Replying to @luckyluc.64 :
No worries. I already made it and printed it. I designed it from scratch and it works with your design. just figured I would add it to your print as a alternative for someone. I’m good though you don’t need to make anything for me. I appreciate it though.
0
Reply
i have anquestion: you say the bore is 9.5mm, i guess that is the diameter of the mounting shaft? I would like to know before printing as most dial indicators here in Europe have an 8mm shaft diameter
The designer has replied
0
Reply
OK, I'll make a Euro model 8mm. How long is the probe and the probe shaft?
1
Reply
my apologies for the late reply but, these are the specs, I have compared them to several makes and models, and are pretty much standard for 25.4mm indicators. thank you for offering to adapt the design!
(Edited)
0
Reply
think my abs shrunk or something. super tight fit.
The designer has replied
0
Reply
Hey Jesse What part is tight? The dial in the C frame? The c-frame on the X axe shaft" The probe into the extension? The dial should be 3/8" [9.5mm] and tight but fit by hand. You can use a flat screwdriver to open it up. I designed it to be 9.5mm, then it's size to size (should be a little tight). It's the same with the probe. I removed the ballpoint, and the edge is sharp. Opening it up is a must. For the frame on the Z may require a bit of smoothing with a file.
0
Reply
okay I'll give it a shot
0
Reply
im going to give this a try and hopefull it solves my issues
The designer has replied
0
Reply
I'm here if you need help levelling your machine. For the issue you have, I'm sure there's good medicine for it. If it doesn't cure it, it will make it funny... Thanks for downloading it. I do appreciate it.
0
Reply
I'll let you know how it goes. I think my bed was off from shipping. I tried to follow the bambu method but it's hard to tell.
0
Reply
Printed in BL ABS, assembly was great, snug fit and screws are likely not even needed as stated in your post. My only issue is it is very hard to move side to side on the rails, do I need to smooth the surface that is touching or is this expected? I find it hard to be too precise if I am having to put a ton of force on it to move it side to side and am afraid it will cause an erroneous measurement like this
The designer has replied
0
Reply
Hey J, you miss one little detail. Turn the machine off. the stepper are trying to maintain there state and are fighting you. It should slide easily. Smooting the contact surface would not be bad but also you don't want it to be loose. A certain friction insures not to have "slack" and unwanted play. Let me know if that helps. Thanks for downloading it and giving feedback. I do appreciate it. I invite you to look at my other solutions for BBL's little corks.
0
Reply
Why dont you put it down infront of the head? Or you just try to be as close as possible to the nozzle ?
The designer has replied
0
Reply
Hey Rsixkg, I did want the table up near where the guide shafts are attached to the frame. It's not the best, but get the table trammed. Also, I did want to see the dial above the frame. It would not be an advantage to be under the nuzzle. There's a guy who has the dial reversed and reads the nuzzle; you may like that better. Look for tramming, and you will see a few solutions, and some may be closer to what you like or want. Thanks for asking.
1
Reply

License

This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.