A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away.... - Free 3D Print Model

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Remixed by

πxel8ed

Art>Sculptures

IP Report

Print Profile(8)

All

A1 mini

P1S

P1P

H2D

X1 Carbon

X1E

H2D Pro

H2S

P2S

H2C

X2D

A2L

V2 - One color: stronger webs, greater detail

Designer

6.4 h

1 plate

4.9(282)

V2 - Two color: stronger webs, greater detail

Designer

7.6 h

1 plate

4.9(100)

V2 - Three color: stronger webs, greater detail

Designer

11.9 h

1 plate

4.9(39)

Optional Uplighting Kit for "A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away...."

Designer

3 h

3 plates

4.9(154)

Click to see more

Open in Bambu Studio

Boost

3104

6725

1034

463

7.8 k

3.6 k

Released

Description

Started with designing a “ship in a bottle”. Ended up with this.

Updates:

3/14/2025: Updated support design to make it easier to remove!
1/20/2024: Updated model to double the strength of the webs. Check out the “V2” profiles.
1/16/2024: Uploaded a few tweaks to the Designer Profile which enhance small details on the ship and improve print reliability
12/26/2023: Added “Optional Uplighting Kit" profile. It's a fast print, compatible with a variety of LED's and fits nicely. Makes the base of the model more significant so also a nice upgrade to add a contrasting portion to the base. Pick plate one or plate two depending on your preferred LED's:
- Plate 1: Fits the LED puck from the Bambu Labs LED Lamp kit.
- Plate 2: Allows the installation of a length of LED light strip (or fairy lights) of various types. If you're just getting started with custom LED installs check this video out.
- Plate 3: Includes a lens that fits in the model base to diffuse the light from the LED's. The Bambu LED is very bright so I prefer printing the lens in white or colored PLA rather than translucent.

Suggestions on removing support material if it does not just pop off initially:

When removing the support don't be in a hurry. It will come off.

Hold the ship portion of the model firmly with one hand, with the other hand use the biggest needle nose pliers you can to grab the support chunk from the bottom where it was attached to the build plate. Make sure you have a firm grip and twist the pliers clockwise/counter-clockwise then pull straight out. Take your time. Don't expect it to pop off in one go. You're just hoping to cause some cracking noises. Then move the pliers to a different spot and repeat the twist/pull to hopefully create some more cracking noises. You're trying to achieve the same effect as when you bend a paperclip back and forth until it breaks. Eventually the support will come loose, just be patient.

Enjoy!

Comment & Rating (1034)

@mr_dude32

printed with black and white resulting in a Grey millennium falcon, blue strings

The designer has replied

@pixelated

Cool. The support came off easily right?

@.Gravy.

you mean you didn’t use grey you made grey?

@AndreasNabert

Print Profile

V2 - Two color: stronger webs, greater detail

It took me 2 attempts to find the right setup with PLA Silk filaments and PETG support filament, but the third attempt was successful LED light is ordered and will be installed afterwards It requires some caution to remove the support structure Supports are printed with PETG Layer height 0.2 P1P printer

The profile uploader has replied

Show original

@pixelated

Very striking color combination. Beautiful.

(Edited)

@Dargin

Hey, that looks really good! I also wanted to try it with PETG as an interface for the supports. Could you tell me how it worked out for you

Show original

@AndreasNabert

Replying to @Dargin :

Yes, it definitely went better with PETG I carefully separated the PETG support from the print bed with a Dremel and then also very carefully held the falcon and peeled off the bottom PETG remnants with a scalpel

Show original

@user_3070003094

printed with bambu handy app. supports are definitely not coming out

The designer has replied

@pixelated

Sorry about that. I’ve never seen that happen. Maybe a software change happened. I’ll try to reproduce. Could you share more details? What Bambu Handy version? What printer model, what size nozzle, what kind of filament? Anything else you think might be relevant?

@user_3070003094

I don't think it's your fault. but here's the deets: X1C, PLA-Pro, handy 3.0.2,

@user_3070003094

0.4mm hardened nozzle

@sarahbandes

I this possible to print with a not bambulab printer ? and parameters use to do it ( i'm struggle with support settings on pruse slicer actually )

The designer has replied

@pixelated

It is if your printer is good at bridging. Also slicer settings are significantly important. One of the really cool things about the MakerWorld publishing model is I'm able to figure out the optimal slicer settings and publish them along with the model. I made many iterations before publishing to ensure a reliable printing experience for others. Before going down the rabbit hole of trying to replicate all of that work in Prusa slicer maybe give Bambu Studio a try. It supports many third party printers so you might need only install studio, add your printer, then click the "Open in Bambu Studio" button on my model page. Please let us know if you're successful.

@sarahbandes

Replying to @pixelated :

i'm using a modified ender 3 max ( motherboard is a BTT SKR mini E3 V3 ) i started the print but seems some string have no where to attach to. i hope only few will be like this. Edit: i stopped the print because cura/prusa don't know how to deal with the strings ... i'm trying Bambu Studio, seems it works better for the strings ( sorry for my poor english, i'm french ) the printing time is even shorter! ( 20h in bambu studio vs 23h in cura/prusa )

(Edited)

@pixelated

Replying to @sarahbandes :

Did you start the print using my settings in Bambu Studio? If so I might be able to help troubleshoot. Could you reply with a picture or two of the print showing the strings both attached and not attached.

@zviratko

I'm pretty sure your problem with single colour is the "slice gap closing radius" setting. Those strings are pretty close to the model, in fact in many areas they intersect it. This setting closes small gaps and will result in the slicer trying to "fill" the gap between the string and the model or joining adjacent lines to the wall, messing it up. Another problem is that the strings end just at the wall, while with the other "suspended" models, those get inside the walls where the slicer puts them in pockets (this increases filament consumption considerably, though, unless you tune top+bottom layers using modifiers). I'm gonna try single colour, so we will know in about 7 hours (I like to print slower). I will upload a photo and profile if it succeeds :-)

The designer has replied

@pixelated

Looking forward to your findings. Thanks!

@zviratko

Replying to @pixelated :

Sooo.. It failed horribly :) I looked at the bridges while they were printing and I think I was right about them needing to rest inside the object. If you don't do that, then those bridges start "in the air" right at the edge of the wall. Depending from where the nozzle was moving and if there's some oozing it might stick to the wall or not - it's a lottery. About 50% of the bridges "stuck", but were extremely brittle and not anchored properly. I'm not familiar with how those other suspended models are constructed exactly - the STL looks like a single object, but the slicer treats them as multiple objects with their own top/bottom layers, I would try replicating that.* There might also be a second issue - those bridges look pretty thin to me. I'm not sure how thin features + Arachne work when bridging, but I would make sure those bridges are 0.2mm high and 0.42mm wide, otherwise Arachne could reduce that. I saw your profile uses Classic (or maybe it's an error, I opened it in Orca). I'd expect Arachne to work better for this (and Arachne is required for the other suspended models which work just fine in single colour). In any case, I would try fixing those two issues and trying single colour again. The fact that it works with multicolour looks more like either a bug or an unintenional side effect of what the slicer is doing (like putting in extra supports or anchors?), and I fully expect it to break at some point. I am willing to test stuff for you if you want to follow this up :-) * P.S. Those pockets are actually here when I change the web material, but disappear with single colour. I found a "hack" to make it reappear by mismatching the wall count between the body and the webs. Let me follow up in a few hours, and hopefully with a photo in the morning :)

@zviratko

Replying to @pixelated :

Even with this hack I mentioned, there are still differences between this model and the other suspended ones. 1) other models have the webs >0.1mm high (setting 0.05 layer height results in two layers for the bridge), yours have just one layer even with 0.01(!)mm 2) other models have the webs =>0.3mm wide (setting 0.11 line width results in three lines). Your has two separate thin lines with a space betwen them when I do this 3) other models seem to have "anchors" at the end of the webs, or at least something that triggers the slicer to use multiple layers inside the object (I imagine it's shaped like a "T" flipped on a side I am not sure which of those causes the problem, but consider this: maybe in 20 years we'll be regularly printing with 0.01 layer heights and widths and then this model just won't work :-) At this point, I think I am pushing the slicer into uncharted territory, it would be better to compare the STLs which I din't know how to do, but I hope this was of some help at least :)

(Edited)

@user_654308918

Boosted

came out brilliant, thank you

The designer has replied

@pixelated

Cool color. What material is that?

@user_654308918

Boosted

Replying to @pixelated :

Black Elegloo PLA bought on Amazon

@user_654308918

Boosted

Replying to @pixelated :

black egeloo filment

@MengPrints

Didn't work for me in 1st try... single color. Only a few strings survived and then died on slowly removing supports. will try another day (before rating :))

The designer has replied

@pixelated

Which profile did you select?

@MengPrints

Replying to @pixelated :

I chose designer's profile with "One, two, three color versions" and printed the singlecolored plate

@pixelated

That should have worked well. Just to be sure, what model printer and size of nozzle? What kind of filament? You might also dry the filament first just as a precaution.

@Nlargen

It’s prints like these that make me more and more impressed with this printer. Broke a few strings getting the supports off because I have poor hands. Printed beautifully though.

@Codyinbody3

how’d you go about getting the supports off?

@Nlargen

tried to hold the bottom of the falcon and then just gently rock the supports back and forth. They came off easily my right hand just slipped at one point. Definitely need to be careful taking them off as you said in the description.

@user_2275198147

Hi everyone, I’d like to print this model. Unfortunately, Bambu Studio doesn’t have a profile for my printer (Centauri Carbon), so I’m forced to use Orca Slicer. The problem is that when I switch printers, I lose the support presets that are configured in the file. I tried copying them manually, but in the preview I get a tree-like structure like the one in the photo, which doesn’t convince me. Could someone kindly share a screenshot of the print preview so I can try to replicate the support tree? (Or let me know if there’s a more efficient method.) Thanks a lot!

The designer has replied

@pixelated

It looks like your slicer is auto generating the support structure. They won’t work. I very carefully painted where support was allowed to print in the published print profile. Try flipping the support setting to manually defined rather than auto. If your lucky the support painting I did will then be applied. if it is lost then manually paint support on the base of the ship only. Hope that helps.

@user_2275198147

Replying to @pixelated :

@πxel8ed many thanks for your response ! something with attached photo seems a good support structure?

@pixelated

Replying to @user_2275198147 :

That looks very promising. I would zoom in to the preview and make sure the supports are not touching the bottom webs and not so close to the base that it would be very difficult to get off.

@tech_lad6789

Boosted

um I'm not sure what happened here.. I checked all the settings they were correct was my right printer a1. I'm still printing it not sure how it's gonna turn out. anyone know what happned

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@pixelated

I’m guessing an intermittent nozzle clog but it’s hard to tell from the photos. Could you zoom out far enough to capture the whole piece in one photo and share that?

@tech_lad6789

Boosted

Replying to @pixelated :

Here's the completed print. I had a look on Bambu's website and I'm thinking its gone and done a layer shift which means either the belts are loose or a gcode glitch. my printer is fairly new so not sure

@pixelated

Replying to @tech_lad6789 :

Layer shift would show up as an offset in the xy direction. That looks like a gap in the z direction to me. It’s possible the g-code got corrupted. If so, the most likely source of corruption would be the sd card in the printer. You might try changing that and redownloading. I still think it looks like a nozzle clog though. Hope that helps.