A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away.... Remixed by πxel8ed

Remixed by

πxel8ed

Art>Sculptures

Print Profile(7)

All

A1 mini

P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

V2 - One color: stronger webs, greater detail

Designer

6.7 h

1 plate

4.8(84)

V2 - Two color: stronger webs, greater detail

Designer

8.5 h

1 plate

4.9(30)

V2 - Three color: stronger webs, greater detail

Designer

27.7 h

1 plate

5.0(10)

Optional Uplighting Kit for "A long time ago in a galaxy far, far away...."

Designer

3 h

3 plates

4.9(50)

Click to see more

Open in Bambu Studio

Boost

1261

2192

443

3.7 k

1.7 k

Released

Description

Started with designing a “ship in a bottle”. Ended up with this.

Updates:

1/20/2024: Updated model to double the strength of the webs. Check out the “V2” profiles.
1/16/2024: Uploaded a few tweaks to the Designer Profile (One, two, and three color versions) which enhance small details on the ship and improve print reliability
12/26/2023: Added “Optional Uplighting Kit” profile. It's a fast print, compatible with a variety of LED's and fits nicely. Makes the base of the model more significant so also a nice upgrade to add a contrasting portion to the base. Pick plate one or plate two depending on your preferred LED's:
- Plate 1: Fits the LED puck from the Bambu Labs LED Lamp kit.
- Plate 2: Allows the installation of a length of LED light strip (or fairy lights) of various types. If you're just getting started with custom LED installs check this video out.
- Plate 3: Includes a lens that fits in the model base to diffuse the light from the LED's. The Bambu LED is very bright so I prefer printing the lens in white or colored PLA rather than translucent.

The Designer Profile (One, two, and three color versions) supports all Bambu Lab printers. Just make sure the Designer Profile is selected in Bambu Handy, click Print, then select the plate you want. If you instead open it in Bambu Studio you may need to select your printer model at the top left dropdown and choose to transfer all settings before slicing and sending to the printer.

One color takes ~7hrs
Two color takes ~8hrs
Three color takes ~24hrs!

Big thanks to @zviratko for figuring out a work around to make one color prints reliable.

Suggestions on removing support material if it does not just pop off initially:

First, be sure to let it cool down completely before attempting to remove the support. We want it to be stiff, not flexible.

When removing the support; hold the ship portion of the model firmly with one hand, with the other hand use the biggest needle nose pliers you can to grab the support chunk from the bottom where it was attached to the build plate. Make sure you have a firm grip and twist the pliers clockwise/counter-clockwise then pull straight out. Take your time. Don't expect it to pop off in one go. You're just hoping to cause some cracking noises. Then move the pliers to a different spot and repeat the twist/pull to hopefully create some more cracking noises. You're trying to achieve the same effect as when you bend a paperclip back and forth until it breaks. Eventually the support will come loose, just be patient.

Enjoy!

Comment & Rating (443)

@sarahbandes

I this possible to print with a not bambulab printer ? and parameters use to do it ( i'm struggle with support settings on pruse slicer actually )

The designer has replied

@pixelated

It is if your printer is good at bridging. Also slicer settings are significantly important. One of the really cool things about the MakerWorld publishing model is I'm able to figure out the optimal slicer settings and publish them along with the model. I made many iterations before publishing to ensure a reliable printing experience for others. Before going down the rabbit hole of trying to replicate all of that work in Prusa slicer maybe give Bambu Studio a try. It supports many third party printers so you might need only install studio, add your printer, then click the "Open in Bambu Studio" button on my model page. Please let us know if you're successful.

@sarahbandes

Replying to @pixelated :

i'm using a modified ender 3 max ( motherboard is a BTT SKR mini E3 V3 ) i started the print but seems some string have no where to attach to. i hope only few will be like this. Edit: i stopped the print because cura/prusa don't know how to deal with the strings ... i'm trying Bambu Studio, seems it works better for the strings ( sorry for my poor english, i'm french ) the printing time is even shorter! ( 20h in bambu studio vs 23h in cura/prusa )

(Edited)

@pixelated

Replying to @sarahbandes :

Did you start the print using my settings in Bambu Studio? If so I might be able to help troubleshoot. Could you reply with a picture or two of the print showing the strings both attached and not attached.

@AndreasNabert

Print Profile

V2 - Two color: stronger webs, greater detail

Ich habe 2 Versuche gebraucht um mit dem PLA+Silk Filamenten und dem Stützfilament PETG das richtige Setup zu finden aber der dritte Versuch war erfolgreich. LED Licht ist bestellt und wird anschließend noch verbaut. Es braucht etwas Vorsicht die Stützstruktur zu entfernen. Haftenden sind mit PETG gedruckt. Layerhöhe 0,2 P1P Drucker.

The designer has replied

@pixelated

Very striking color combination. Beautiful.

(Edited)

@Dargin

Hey, das sieht richtig gut aus! Ich wollte es auch mit PETG als Schnittstelle an den Supports versuchen. Könntest du mir sagen, wie es bei dir geklappt hat?

@AndreasNabert

Replying to @Dargin :

Ja auf jeden Fall ging es mit dem PETG besser. Ich habe den PETG Support vorsichtig mit einem Dremel vom Druckbett getrennt und dann ebenfalls sehr vorsichtig den Falken festgehalten und die unteren PETG Reste abgeknibbelt mit einem Skalpell.

@MengPrints

Didn't work for me in 1st try... single color. Only a few strings survived and then died on slowly removing supports. will try another day (before rating :))

The designer has replied

@pixelated

Which profile did you select?

@MengPrints

Replying to @pixelated :

I chose designer's profile with "One, two, three color versions" and printed the singlecolored plate

@pixelated

That should have worked well. Just to be sure, what model printer and size of nozzle? What kind of filament? You might also dry the filament first just as a precaution.

@zviratko

I'm pretty sure your problem with single colour is the "slice gap closing radius" setting. Those strings are pretty close to the model, in fact in many areas they intersect it. This setting closes small gaps and will result in the slicer trying to "fill" the gap between the string and the model or joining adjacent lines to the wall, messing it up. Another problem is that the strings end just at the wall, while with the other "suspended" models, those get inside the walls where the slicer puts them in pockets (this increases filament consumption considerably, though, unless you tune top+bottom layers using modifiers). I'm gonna try single colour, so we will know in about 7 hours (I like to print slower). I will upload a photo and profile if it succeeds :-)

The designer has replied

@pixelated

Looking forward to your findings. Thanks!

@zviratko

Replying to @pixelated :

Sooo.. It failed horribly :) I looked at the bridges while they were printing and I think I was right about them needing to rest inside the object. If you don't do that, then those bridges start "in the air" right at the edge of the wall. Depending from where the nozzle was moving and if there's some oozing it might stick to the wall or not - it's a lottery. About 50% of the bridges "stuck", but were extremely brittle and not anchored properly. I'm not familiar with how those other suspended models are constructed exactly - the STL looks like a single object, but the slicer treats them as multiple objects with their own top/bottom layers, I would try replicating that.* There might also be a second issue - those bridges look pretty thin to me. I'm not sure how thin features + Arachne work when bridging, but I would make sure those bridges are 0.2mm high and 0.42mm wide, otherwise Arachne could reduce that. I saw your profile uses Classic (or maybe it's an error, I opened it in Orca). I'd expect Arachne to work better for this (and Arachne is required for the other suspended models which work just fine in single colour). In any case, I would try fixing those two issues and trying single colour again. The fact that it works with multicolour looks more like either a bug or an unintenional side effect of what the slicer is doing (like putting in extra supports or anchors?), and I fully expect it to break at some point. I am willing to test stuff for you if you want to follow this up :-) * P.S. Those pockets are actually here when I change the web material, but disappear with single colour. I found a "hack" to make it reappear by mismatching the wall count between the body and the webs. Let me follow up in a few hours, and hopefully with a photo in the morning :)

@zviratko

Replying to @pixelated :

Even with this hack I mentioned, there are still differences between this model and the other suspended ones. 1) other models have the webs >0.1mm high (setting 0.05 layer height results in two layers for the bridge), yours have just one layer even with 0.01(!)mm 2) other models have the webs =>0.3mm wide (setting 0.11 line width results in three lines). Your has two separate thin lines with a space betwen them when I do this 3) other models seem to have "anchors" at the end of the webs, or at least something that triggers the slicer to use multiple layers inside the object (I imagine it's shaped like a "T" flipped on a side I am not sure which of those causes the problem, but consider this: maybe in 20 years we'll be regularly printing with 0.01 layer heights and widths and then this model just won't work :-) At this point, I think I am pushing the slicer into uncharted territory, it would be better to compare the STLs which I din't know how to do, but I hope this was of some help at least :)

(Edited)

@mr_dude32

printed with black and white resulting in a Grey millennium falcon, blue strings

The designer has replied

@pixelated

Cool. The support came off easily right?

@Nlargen

It’s prints like these that make me more and more impressed with this printer. Broke a few strings getting the supports off because I have poor hands. Printed beautifully though.

@Codyinbody3

how’d you go about getting the supports off?

@Nlargen

tried to hold the bottom of the falcon and then just gently rock the supports back and forth. They came off easily my right hand just slipped at one point. Definitely need to be careful taking them off as you said in the description.

@CryptoVice

Print Profile

One, two, and three color versions: Select this profile then pick your version

Great file and design! Here is my completed one in matte black, white and blue PLA.

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@pixelated

Nice! The contrast of the colors looks very good.

@free.design

Amazing model, printed quite well and support came off pretty easily. My son loved it. I just need to find a appropriate light to make it look even better. Thanks.

The designer has replied

@pixelated

That's great. I added an "Up-lighting" kit profile to the model a few days ago. Does that help or did you have a different approach in mind?

@free.design

Replying to @pixelated :

I am not good at electric works :( i did not want to use a light with battery, but instead i bought a led lamp, i will need to build a stand for it which will work as a base for the model. I will post a photo once i will finalise it.

@user_3571787675

Print Profile

V2 - Two color: stronger webs, greater detail

amazing print! my only issue is I cannot get the bottom support off and I have broken a fee strings.

The designer has replied

@pixelated

Looks great. Regarding the support. I've never failed to get the support off but some do take more effort. Some materials, especially silk PLA's, can be particularly stubborn. My suggestion is to find the largest set of pliers you have that can firmly grab the support at the base where it was attached to the print bed. Larger is better not because you can apply more force but because it tends to be easier to hold onto firmly so nothing slips. Wrap one hand around the front of the ship so that your fingers and thumb sandwich the ship. With the other hand use the pliers to grab hold of the support chunk where it was attached to the build plate and twist it clockwise, counter-clockwise then pull straight out. You're not trying to get it off on the first try. Just apply enough force to hopefully hear a small cracking noise. Then move the pliers to a different position and repeat the twist-pull motion. Again, you're just hoping to hear a bit of cracking. Don't torque on it so hard that you risk the piece slipping loose and getting damaged. Repeat moving the tool and twisting until it comes off. It may seem like nothing is happening initially but keep at it for several minutes. The bond between the ship and support will eventually fatigue and break off. I hope that helps.

(Edited)

@Totof95490

Merci pour ce modèle, incroyable a imprimer. Avec mes gros doigts, j'ai préférer utiliser un filament pour support pour l'interface avec le vaisseau, Parfait du premier coup. Pour la partie lumineuse j'ai utilisé un filament phosphorescent, un peu plus compliqué a imprimer mais c'est du a l'âge de mon filament. Vraiment bravo pour cette idée. Comment as tu fais le design, qu'est ce que tu as utilisé pour la modélisation? Merci