TL;DR
This custom-designed, fully articulating droideka model is optimized BambuLab A1-X1 print bed printers and can be scaled to almost any size! It features precise tolerance pieces, allowing for detailed assembly and scaling, though some sanding may be necessary dependent on your print capabilities and tuning. I tried to keep all pins that hold it together to the same sizes, so there's not IKEA level complexity! The model includes space in the belly for integrating battery or sound systems. It has multiple articulation points for realistic movement. Follow the specific print settings for best results, and use the provided alternate variations as needed.

See BELOW Gifs for Assembly Details

Key Features:
Precise Tolerance Pieces: Ensures accurate scaling and tight fitting; may require sanding.
Custom Design: Fully articulating model that closely resembles the real droideka.
Battery Integration: Option to house a battery inside for lights or sounds.
Articulating Parts: Front legs swivel, arms extend, blasters lift, and head moves.
Alternate Variations: Includes extra knee pins and blaster files, with options for different levels of articulation.
Printing Tips: Use four layers for pins printed sideways, test fit before sanding, and follow specific plate print requirements to prevent breakage.

Droideka 3D Custom Articulating Model: To make a short story Long:

Set all settings to your printing preferences. This unit features exact tolerance pieces, allowing it to be scaled to almost any size. Multiple versions have been printed at various sizes successfully! However, the precise fit means you may need to sand down any misprinted pieces to ensure they don't snap apart or damage other components. Remember: long pins are stronger printed horizontally, but also tend to be shaped funky.

Design Notes:

• All pieces are custom-designed, making it possible for anyone to print and assemble a droideka. It closely resembles the real thing but requires less time, filament, and energy to print. Despite the droideka's complex physics-defying design, significant effort has been made to ensure it is fully articulating, so design liberties have been taken to allow for both visual, and tactile appeal.

   

• This version is optimized for the Bambulab X1 Carbon printer. At 58% scale, it is large enough to house a standard power tool battery inside the belly and seat, allowing for the addition of lights or sounds. The front legs swivel freely, and all legs can fold under the droid when the pins are removed and replaces in the new position. Most pinned parts can be reoriented, with blasters lifting up, arms extending, the body bending, and the head moving out. When you lift up the slider lock for the back cover, the center piece also twists from left to right. The head will fit loose, I suggest a piece of rubber or wrap the end with tape to give it stability in the slider.

   

• Included in the STL files are alternate knee pins for a tighter fit, a fill cover bottom, and blaster files, along with a complete belly ball and seat if you prefer not to print them separately. If printing any pins except the knee pins sideways, use four layers and sand them down to fit correctly. Test the tolerance in the holes before sanding; some abrasion may enhance strength.

   

• Several plates have specific print requirements to prevent breakage. Use the recommended settings or better. Supports are set at normal for ease of removal, but you can adjust based on your preference. It is VERY Top Heavy, so a lot of stress will be on the hinges, and the legs. This is why those have been marked as a stronger print.

   

• All pieces are exact-sized, so fittings may be tight. A rubber mallet or hammer and channel locks can help "force" a proper fit. To reorient the droideka, remove the knee and hip pins and adjust the legs.

   

• Depending on your printer's tolerances, some parts, especially the dual hinge pins and center area, may start to slide. A drilled hole and nail can secure these parts, and keep them from bending, while also allowing you to pose them in any way. The model should support its own weight if your printer is well-tuned.

As mentioned above, three extra plates for alternate variations are included:

• Exact Knee Pins: These are the exact size of the knee holes and will hold the legs in a static position. Attempting to rotate the legs with these pins will cause breakage.
• Alternate Cover: You don't have to print the cover pins and each fin individually, just connect the fin base to the cover top
• Belly Ball and Seat: These generally print separately, to have the space for battery systems, etc. However you can skip printing the belly lock, the seat and belly separately, and simply print them all at once. I suggest using this option if you scale down anyway.

Please let me know if you have questions, comments, or rude remarks! I hope you enjoy this as much as I do!

Assembly!
After printing each plate, you MAY want to label them, but you can refer to the 3mf as well. I tried to keep all pieces intuitive, all (or most) holes are the same size, and use the same pieces relatively universally.

Step 1: Legs

• Assembly your Legs! Attach the Tip to the knee, slide the design nut (serves no purpose other than aesthetic).
• Connect the hip connector to the belly, putting the small pin vertically
• Attach the Leg to the hip connector with another leg pin and design nut
• The rear section has a hip connector built into the belly. The rear leg does not swivel, and connects directly to the belly.

Step 2: Belly and Center

• Slide the “seat” into the belly
• Snap in the front piece to secure the belly and seat together
• Connect the two dual hinges, with their nuts up and out
• Connect the Center piece onto the dual hinges

Step 3: Front and “backpack”

• Attach the front facing section to the center with a vertical pin, coming in from the bottom
• Push the backpack into the rear of the center section

Step 4: Cover Top and Slider

• Line up the small end of the H hinge to the top of the center section and slide that pin through
• Put the cover barrel into the cover top section.
• Line up the slider, and barrel with the top of the H PIN. This part can be a bit tricky to line it up and get the pin through all five circles.

Step 5-8 repeat on both the left and the right

Step 5: Blaster Assembly

• Slide the blaster securing pin through the blaster center
• Press the blaster Barrels onto both sides of the blaster center
• Press in the tubes on either side. There are indentions showing where.
• Line up the blaster hinges, but do NOT slide the pin through yet.

Step 6: Assemble Hydraulics

• Slide the hydraulic top connector to the solid piston
• Slide the hollow piston into the bottom hydraulic connector
• Align the bottom hydraulic connector in the base of the blaster hinge and rear of the blaster center and secure them with the pin.

Step 7: Attach the Upright Connector

• Line the bottom of the upright with the top of the blaster hinges
• line up the top of the upright connector to the hydraulic top
• slide both pins in to connect both pieces
• press the ball connector into the top of the upright
• Align the outward arm in the ball hole
• Secure with another pin

Step 8: Attaching Blaster Arms

• line up the outward arm with the forward facing center piece
• secure it with a pin from the front or back
• put two pins into the shoulder arm guard
• connect the guard into the ball section (printing and connecting the arm guard is optional. I actually prefer the visual without it)

Step 9: Connect your Cover base

• Push the two cover connector pins into the cover top
• Slide the cover base into the bottom of the cover top

IF you have printed the pieces separately:

• Push the little pins into the cover center section, then secure the fins individually onto it, and follow the above steps.
  

And now you have a Droideka!