[Introduction]

6/22/2024 - Big Update! I adjusted the model to accommodate sleeved cards. I had to ditch the TPU rollers. They worked for the most part for un-sleeved cards, but weren't perfect. For sleeved cards, it was no good. Luckily for me, Bambu started to carry O-rings on the Maker Supply, and Bob's your uncle, we're in business. It's much better. As much as I wanted to like TPU rollers, they were just still too smooth. I'll update the BOM section fully once I can link to the Maker's Supply entry for the o-rings. They are easy to find elsewhere too though like on amazon, or even your local hardware store for that matter. 

This update has a slightly longer base, so all the mid sections are a little longer. Ends/gears all stay the same. It's been working well for sleeve and unsleeved cards for me, in the Skip-bo to regular playing card size. Should be able to handle things like MTG and your other beloved sleeved card games. 

I haven't been to keen on the card shufflers available commercially, and feel most of the ones designed for 3d printing don't really elevate themselves to a consumer level product. Thus, this card shuffler was born. I wanted something stylistic, and not just functional. Inspired by old printing presses, with those cast iron frames. Although, it looks a bit like a boiler too, I'd say.

Sized for standard playing cards. (64x89mm + plus sleeves, or there abouts, is the max size card it'll shuffle). I sized it to be able to shuffle a full skip-bo deck, which is 160 cards. It can do about 80 sleeved cards, in testing. Might have to make an extra tall version for bigger decks and big sleeved decks! 

It's been running smoothly for me, especially since upgrading to O-rings. The grip on them is much better than the original TPU rollers. There are occasional jams that happen, when the cards don't fall right. I think as long as you aren't going too slow and keep a good pace, usually it's fine. Sometimes it helps to shift the whole thing back and fort slightly to shake the cards loose and get them to settle. 

[Hardware Required]

Featured Filaments

Bambu PLA Metallic Iron Gray

Bambu PLA Metallic Copper Brown

Bambu PETG-CF Brick Red

Bambu PLA Galaxy Nebula

Bambu PLA Glow Green

Bambu PLA Metallic Copper Brown

Bambu Matte Grass Green

Bambu Marine Blue

Bambu Lemon Yellow

Notes about Printing

As Noted, you'll want TPU for the pads. At least that's what I designed and set them up for. I also set them up to use fuzzy skin, to hopefully give a little more texture to grab onto the cards. 

I highly recommend using a smooth PEI bed. (It's not required, and you can absolutely print the whole thing on your bed of choice. I just highly recommend the Smooth PEI bed for PLA because it holds well, and for smaller parts with a thin profile on the bed, it tends to hold much better. Like the spacers I use in step 4.)

Hardware Required :

36x M2.6x8mm Self Tapping Screws (Bambu's BT2.6x8mm self tapping screws) (From the Bambu US Store)

9x MR128 Ball Bearings (inner = 8mm, outer 12mm, height = 3.5mm, such as this one from Amazon, or from the Bambu US store)

4 O-Rings OD 24x2.5mm  ( From the Bambu US Store)

[Upgrading from the TPU Roller version]

If you've already printed the card shuffler, but want to upgrade, please refer to the above graphic for the parts you'll need to reprint. Make sure you print 2 of the axels, pad drums, and the card holder/bracket. In addition you'll need two extra screws to secure the drums to the axels, and the 4 O-rings. 

If all you want to do is upgrade the pad drums, then you should be able to slide them on the original axles, however be aware that they aren't secured with friction like the TPU pads were, so you might need to glue them or use some other method to fix them once installed, if the fit is too loose. The new axels are slightly longer, but also have a hole for a self tapping screw to tap into. 

[Assembly]

(Caution: Do not overtighten! Loosen screw a little of bearings bind)

(Caution: Do not overtighten! Loosen screw a little if gears bind)

(Rotate the pads so the flat ends are opposite each other before installing the large gear)

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