Card Shuffler

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Card Shuffler

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P1S
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X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1
A1 mini

X1/A1/P1 - 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
X1/A1/P1 - 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
Designer
19.3 h
6 plates
5.0(688)

A1 Mini - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
A1 Mini - 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
23 h
8 plates
4.9(118)

Tall - A1/P1/X1 - 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
Tall - A1/P1/X1 - 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
Designer
22.6 h
6 plates
5.0(180)

Tall - A1 Mini - 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
Tall - A1 Mini - 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
Designer
26.2 h
8 plates
4.9(28)
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Description

[Introduction]

11/20/2024 - I've updated the main gear to be in two pieces now; separating the shaft from the gear. This should help with issues, with the shaft breaking as it's printed in a better orientation now.  You'll want to reprint the main gear, the shaft, and the crank arm components, as the spacing was tweaked on them. 

 

Let me know if you have any issues. I've printed and tested the upgrade, and it works well! I've double checked the print profiles, and all should be good. I am human though and make mistakes though, so, hehe. 

 

 

 

10/08/2024 - TheMiguelBi has done a motor upgrade. Check it out here. I still have plans on a more official motor upgrade, but it'll be a little more involved in component selection and assembly. TheMiguelBi's upgrade is good approach that utilizes the Maker Supply motors currently on offer. I recommend checking it out, especially since I don't have a timeline on an official one. 

 

7/13/2024 - I've released the tall version! It can handle about 120 sleeved cards comfortably, but you can push it up to about 140. I didn't want to get too crazy with the height, and most people seemed to need it to accommodate around 100 sleeved cards for their MTG decks. I tested it with my wingspan deck! 

 

I haven't been to keen on the card shufflers available commercially, and feel most of the ones designed for 3d printing don't really elevate themselves to a consumer level product. Thus, this card shuffler was born. I wanted something stylistic, and not just functional. Inspired by old printing presses, with those cast iron frames. Although, it looks a bit like a boiler too, I'd say.

 

Sized for standard playing cards. (64x89mm + plus sleeves, or there abouts, is the max size card it'll shuffle). I sized the standard version to be able to shuffle a full skip-bo deck, which is 160 cards. It can do about 80 sleeved cards, in testing. The tall version can accommodate about 120 sleeved cards, 140 is about the maximum it can handle. 

 

It's been running smoothly for me, especially since upgrading to O-rings. The grip on them is much better than the original TPU rollers. There are occasional jams that happen, when the cards don't fall right. I think as long as you aren't going too slow and keep a good pace, usually it's fine. Sometimes it helps to shift the whole thing back and fort slightly to shake the cards loose and get them to settle. 

 

[Hardware Required]

(Full disclosure, I am part of the Bambu Affiliate Program. All Bambu store links are affiliate links. I earn a small commission from these links without any added cost to you. These links help to support me so I can bring more content for free!)

Featured Filaments

Bambu PLA Metallic Iron Gray

Bambu PLA Metallic Copper Brown

Bambu PETG-CF Brick Red

 

Bambu PLA Galaxy Nebula

Bambu PLA Glow Green

Bambu PLA Metallic Copper Brown

 

Bambu Matte Grass Green

Bambu Marine Blue

Bambu Lemon Yellow

 

Tall Version:

Bambu PLA Sparkle Crimson Red

Bambu PLA Metallic Oxide Green

Bambu PLA Galaxy Nebula 

 

Notes about Printing

I highly recommend using a smooth PEI bed. (It's not required, and you can absolutely print the whole thing on your bed of choice. I just highly recommend the Smooth PEI bed for PLA because it holds well, and for smaller parts with a thin profile on the bed, it tends to hold much better. Like the spacers I use in step 4.)

 

Hardware Required :

(Full disclosure, I am part of the Amazon Affiliate Program. All amazon links are affiliate links. I earn a small commission from these links without any added cost to you. These links help to support me so I can bring more content for free!

 

I utilize Bambu's self tapping screws for this project, which I highly recommend. However, I'll provide some alternatives for screws you can purchase from amazon for those that would prefer)

  • 36x M2.6x8mm Self Tapping Screws (Bambu's BT2.6x8mm self tapping screws) (I recommend the Bambu screws, although  something like this from Amazon US I've tested and will work.)
  • 9x MR128ZZ Ball Bearings (inner = 8mm, outer 12mm, height = 3.5mm, such as this one from Amazon US, or from the Bambu US store)
  • 4 O-Rings OD 24x2.5mm  (From the Bambu US Store, or from Amazon US)

 

[Upgrading from the TPU Roller version]

If you've already printed the original tpu version of the card shuffler, but want to upgrade, please refer to the above graphic for the parts you'll need to reprint. Make sure you print 2 of the axels, pad drums, and the card holder/bracket. In addition you'll need two extra screws to secure the drums to the axels, and the 4 O-rings. 

 

If all you want to do is upgrade the pad drums, then you should be able to slide them on the original axles, however be aware that they aren't secured with friction like the TPU pads were, so you might need to glue them or use some other method to fix them once installed, if the fit is too loose. The new axels are slightly longer, but also have a hole for a self tapping screw to tap into. 

 

 

[Assembly]

Step1: Screw the end plates on. 

Step2: Assemble the two side card holders, then slot them in and screw them into the main body. 

Step3: 

  • Install the o-rings onto the two drums.
  • Install the bearing on the end of the shaft and then screw the end cap into place to keep it secure. 
  • Insert the drum into place, and then insert the shaft through the drum and the main body. Install the set screw to set the drum into place.

(Caution: Do not overtighten! Loosen screw a little of bearings bind)

Step4: 

  • Insert the bearings onto the shafts, followed by the spacer and then the gear. Make sure the bearing is fully seated.
  • Make sure the gears are orientated right. The Arrow pattern on the gear should point in the direction of travel. Inward! 
  • Screw the gears into place. 

(Caution: Do not overtighten! Loosen screw a little if gears bind)

Step5:

  • The Tricky part
  • For each gear there is a gear peg and the bearing. Insert the bearing into the end plate, and insert the gear peg into the gear. Make sure the gears are fully seated.
  • I insert the small gear and then the large one. With the large one I try and angle it in a little, and use a little force to jam it into place. 
  • You'll want to try and rotate the pads so the flat ends are opposite each other before installing the large gear. 

Step6: Insert the bearings into the gear bracket and make sure they are fully seated. Screw the bracket into place. 

Step7: 

  • Insert the bearing into the crank arm, and then sandwich it between the peg and knob, and secure it with a screw. 
  • Screw the crank arm onto the large gear's shaft with an end cap to help keep it secured. 
  • Shuffle some cards! 

 

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If you like my work, consider showing your love by Buying me a coffee. Additionally, if you're looking to sell prints of my design, please check out my Patreon page for more information. on.

 

 

 

 

 

Bill of Materials

Maker’s Supply Kits and Parts
$9.75 USD
B-ZH008
× 1
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Comment & Rating (1593)

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Great model and a perfect print profile! I printed the newest version and it works really well. I went with a minimalist approach of only 2 colors - black PLA and silver Silk PLA w/out the SHUFFLE logo. The only issue I encountered was with the largest cog. The stem snapped and I had to reprint it. For the reprint, I went with 8 walls so the stem was solid instead of hollow. Might be worth updating your print profile to make the large cog's stem solid? Would it be possible to make it so a larger deck can be shuffled? I mainly use this for 100 card sleeved decks and it struggles with that many cards. Also, any plans to make a motorized version with Bambu's maker supply motors/parts? I think having a motorized version would be killer. Fantastic job. Thank you so much for sharing this with everyone :)
The designer has replied
21
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@TheMakerSphere Taller version and a motorized version have both been on my mind. The Maker supply motors don't seem to have the torque needed. There's another common-ish motor out there I was going to look into, but haven't got as far yet. I might have to revisit the maker supply ones though to double check myself. I updated the print profiles as you suggested. I got a few other comments along that front, so seemed like I should go ahead and do it.
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That silver filament looks fantastic
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Replying to @Skreamies :
It is eSun's Silk PLA Silver. I am super impressed with it!
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Print Profile
X1/A1/P1 - 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
Vielen Dank fürs Teilen, der Zusammenbau war nicht so einfach aber zuletzt funktioniert er doch noch perfekt. Lg Robert
(Edited)
GIF
The designer has replied
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Thanks for sharing all the photos and the gif! The print turned out great.
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Schöne Farbzusammenstellung, das braun was ist denn das für ein Filament?
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Hi was benötige ich alles für den Zusammenbau außer der druck teile
0
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Print Profile
X1/A1/P1 - 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
Wow! This model is a stunning piece of art! Everything went straight together first go. The only thing I had to do was loosen some of the screws holding the gears until all gears were in place. It works pretty well too - I've never had a shuffler so can't really compare it to anything but I did some tests and it throws roughly between 1 and 5 cards out from each side at a time which seems perfect. Thank you!
(Edited)
GIF
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wow! those are really great colors 😍 Can I ask what type/color of filament they were and which manufacturer they were from?
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Replying to @bollekeil :
Certainly! Its Bambu PLA metals cobalt blue The drawer and weights are Bambu PLA Sparkle Crimson Red The handles are Bambu PLA Silk Gold and the gears and holders are eSun PLA Silk Copper
(Edited)
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Boosted
Absolutely wonderful print, so nicely put together, and it feels so robust and weighty. Pleasure to print and look forward to trying it out with the family. Instructions were a breeze to follow for the most part (some smaller parts I had to refer to the photo reference for orientation). First time printing in TPU so that part took a bit to dial in, but nothing taken away from the design at all. One small improvement I'd love to see though is a retention mechanism or magnets for the card tray underneath. A few times when showing someone they've turned it and it's slipped out. Otherwise it's a fantastic piece, and look forward to doing more of your designs!
The designer has replied
14
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Looks great! Really like the idea of a magnet to help keep the tray in place.
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what part of the print was TPU?
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Amazing print. Works well with sleeved MTG cards. Really great instructions as well.
The designer has replied
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I like that filament choice! Nice.
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I like your color choices. with the main frame and trays white it allow the mechanical components and detail to standout with the shiny metal looking filament choice used for the gears and other components has the look of heated and cooled Titanium metal which which if they were real titanium, they would be strong, lightweight, and very expensive. Again, excellent choice on filament colors.
(Edited)
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does it work with double sleeved cards?
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Boosted
A really great 3D printed model. It is very easy to assemble and simply works great.
The designer has replied
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I like that Bosch version! Looks on point.
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Wow, I really like the Bosch version. Is it available for download? And which filaments did you use to make it look so authentic?
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Boosted
Replying to @IzScream :
Hi, sorry i have no download for you, but you can easily remove the Shuffle text in Bambu/Orca Slicer and add text as you like. Just google the Bosch fontname, or some similiar. If I remember correctly, I used Nobufil ABSx Industrial Green and some black and red eSun ABS.
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Boosted
Amazing print. Works very well. Slight fit issues and a bit of a squeak when printed off the app. I will be printing another in PETG with my own profiles. will update once it is done!! Great design. Very nice looking.
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I love the color scheme
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I love Those colors what are they called and where did you got the filament from?
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Boosted
Print Profile
Dual color parts 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
I just finished the final plate. When my hardware arrives, i'll be sure to post the finished product.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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Boosted
Thanks!
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Boosted
Assembly complete!
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Boosted
Replying to @Jtlrwells :
Nice colors! What is the red/copper filament ?
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Boosted
Thanks for making this model! It looks great and is functional. There is either a mistake on Step 3 and 4 or I'm reading the instructions incorrectly. In the pics I posted of the instructions, there are two red arrows that point to the parts in question. I'm interpreting one of them to be the bearing and the other to be a spacer. There isn't room for the spacer and the bearing on the end of the rod, so I left out the spacer. Also, the diagram doesn't show the end cap on the end of the rod but the text does. Maybe what I'm interpreting as a spacer is really the endcap but then it is on the wrong side of the bearing in the diagram. I had two of the spacers left over at the end but it shuffles quite well! I also love the filament colors! If I had a dream list it would be to make it handle more cards. This shuffler is useful but can only handle a few more cards that can be shuffled by hand. Games like ArkNova with 100+ cards would be ideal for the shuffler. To make it handle 2X the cards the unit would have to be 2x taller. However, if the input trays could handle more cards, then we could take them out mid shuffle. An optional taller input tray on both sides would be great. Please don't consider this as criticism. This is the best looking functional 3D print I've ever made. Well Done!!
The designer has replied
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Here's a photo showing a cutaway of the shaft. On the front it should be the end cap and then bearing, then on the back it should be the bearing, spacer, then gear. I'm working on doing a taller version now, and hope to have it up by the weekend!
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Boosted
Replying to @Josheh_3D :
Thanks, that is helpful. However, the photo you posted shows the spacer on the side by the gear. The Picture in step 3 shows the spacer on the side without the gear. See my markup on the pics below. Exceptionally minor, it was easy to figure out since the short end of the shaft has no room for the spacer. I sent you a boost and a coffee. I teach engineers classes on statistics and I now use the shuffler as an example in class of what is possible with 3D printing.
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Replying to @philipm :
Ah! That's the bearing. I marked all the hardware in magenta to try and help distinguish it. Perhaps I should have done a parts listing to help make it clearer. I had thought about that, but ended up not getting as involved. I was trying to make it as simple as I could, although maybe I over simplified. This was my first go at instructions like this, so I'm still trying to figure out how to best show things, so discussions like this are helpful. I appreciate it, the boost, and the support. That's pretty cool! I'm trying to push it with each new design, to show what is possible.
(Edited)
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Boosted
Print Profile
X1/A1/P1 - 0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
great design and idea. I printed the first version with tpu rolls and maybe I need to redo them because they don't work good. got a little problem with the assembly on the back, see my second photo. somehow the measurements didn't work with the gear etc.
The designer has replied
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Hello @lokibare Yeah, the TPU ones seemed like a good idea, but in practice it didn't work out as well, hence why I switched them to o-rings. I didn't fully realize until after I released it, so tried to fix that as quick as I could. The o-ring version is a lot better. On the gears. Make sure the bearings are seated fully? They are a tight fit, so it can take a little force sometimes to push them in fully. The only other thing I could think of is if you accidentally printed the axels from the new version (As the whole body was extended for the sleeved/o-ring upgrade). That could push the gears out slightly if you still had the main body from the tpu version.
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Boosted
Replying to @Josheh_3D :
oh I don't know maybe they got mixed up becaue I had to re-download the file a few times due to errors on my end in the slicer. I pushed every gear as far as possible but as you can see they all align well so I think it must be the connections to to outer plate that don't fit. Regarding the dimensions as you can see I fixed it but the rolls need some attention. Can I print and use the new o-ring version with the old design or do I have to replace parts?
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Replying to @lokibare :
@lokibare You can get it working. The O-Ring rollers are secured with a set screw, but the hole for the set screw isn't on the older, shorter shaft, so you may need to glue or shim it to get it to stay in place. If you want to avoid reprinting the mid sections, I'd suggest this. first, to try and address/fix the gears issue, go to the raw files and find the RollerBar.3mf, and print two of those. Then print the newer o-ring rollers. They slide on like the TPU ones, but like I said, the older roller bar is missing a hole for the set screw (since the TPU were push-fit), so you'll want to glue or shim it for a tight fit. If you want to go for it and make sure the model is the fully updated version, then just refer to the attached graphic for all the parts that changed as part of the upgrade from the tpu to o-ring version.
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