Customizable box for storing cards for deck-building games. I created it mainly for storing and safely transporting Dominion cards. Requires a couple drops of cyanoacrylate glue (Superglue) to assemble. 

This has a TON of customizable parameters. I highly recommend reading through at least the Quickstart Guide section first to avoid being overwhelmed. I tried to thoroughly test a wide range of reasonable input values, but you should double check that the output STL is what you expect before printing. Generate a test print with the largest and smallest card slot you'll need and make sure you like the card fit before printing a complete box.

Overview

Inspired by play0r's really nice dominion box designs (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4696563). I love the look, but found a few areas for improvement after printing one:

• The lid slides off very easily and doesn't lock into place, so it's not very good for transport
• There's a fair amount of internal geometry that can be removed to reduce plastic and print time
• The open top and cutouts in the sides leave the cards exposed- again, not great for transport
• The slots were a bit more spacious than necessary (for my cards and sleeves), leading to excessive shifting in the box
• The whole thing would benefit from being parameterized so similar containers for other cards can be easily made

Inspired by that design, I created this box with the following notable improvements:

• Made the whole thing parameterized to a fault. Way more customization options than anyone will probably ever use
• Filled in the end walls to better protect the cards
• Maximized cutouts in the slot divider walls and offset walls without sacrificing integrity or function, resulting in about 20% less plastic use (and print time)
• Adjusted internal divider cutout size to prevent card bottoms from slipping into adjacent slots during insertion
• Designed a lid that snaps securely into place and protects the tops of the cards
• Found the (IMHO) ideal parameters for sleeved dominion cards and extrapolated that into defaults and recommendations for any card set

Quickstart Guide

1. All values are in mm unless stated otherwise. All customizable variables have a helpful description, read them! 
2. Review the values in the Required tab
   • lidText defines the text on the box's lid. Play with the lidTextFontSize to get a good fit
   • IMPORTANT: MakerWorld currently doesn't handle arrays properly; you'll have to edit the cards, titles, and prefix arrays in the code directly. 
   • cards should contain a comma-separated list of card counts per slot, RIGHT TO LEFT. 
     • This ordering feels weird, but makes it easier to read alphabetized labels by viewing the box sideways
   • titles is an optional list of labels for each card slot, RIGHT TO LEFT
   • prefix is an optional list of text to place prior to the titles; useful for metadata about the card, such as in-game cost. RIGHT TO LEFT
   • Enter the various height/width/depth dimensions of your cards and/or sleeves.
   • Specify how much 'extra' room the cards should have in various dimensions. The defaults should be good if you're looking for a usable but snug fit.
   • Adjust the dividerHeight to be about 75% of the card height for best results. 
     • Make sure that this value leaves at least 20mm of space for the top of the cards or it'll be hard to pull them out.
3. Review the values in the Text Options tab. Adjust to ensure all your desired text is legible and where you want it. 
   • MakerWorld doesn't currently support custom fonts; you'll have to use OpenSCAD locally to use the provided custom fonts. 
4. Skim over the variables in the Optional (Basic) tab. Adjust to your preference. The defaults here have been optimized for any print with a 0.4mm nozzle and 0.2 or 0.3mm layer height.
5. Skip the Optional (Advanced) tab; these allow you to modify the internal wall cutout offsets if you need to, but you shouldn't need to.
6. Go to the Components to Generate tab to select what to generate.
   • You can turn off makeSideLabels and makeLidText to make the previews generate much faster while you're playing with the settings (text takes longer to render)
   • lidOnTop should only be used to visually verify a proper lid fit in the preview window; do NOT try to print like this. 
   • When everything looks good, turn makeSideLabels and makeLidText back on. Then turn on makeBox and lidOnSide. Note that you'll have to use the Split function of your slicer to separate the parts from one another, or you can turn them on and generate one at a time to break them into individual files.
7. Review the Multi-color notes section below for info about printing the text in a different color. 

Multi-color notes: 

Unfortunately OpenSCAD doesn't currently support specifying different objects in the output in a way that would allow for automated multi-color print workflows. To add color to the text on the lid and/or the sides there a few options (besides painstakingly hand-painting IRL the text like I originally did). 

Lid

RECOMMENDED: Enable the genLidTextMulticolor option. Instead of debossing the lid text it will create a tiny cutout around the text (which you probably won't be able to see on the model). Then you can use your slicer to easily paint the text a different color; use the Fill tool with Edge Detection enabled. 

• I tried just painting the inside of the normal debossed text, but that seemed to make the slicer forget they required bridging and as a result the print turned out terrible. 

Alt: Switch filament for the layers that are printing the bottom surface of the lettering. This is probably a lot easier to setup, but will result in a small band of different color being visible on the outside of the lid as well. Make sure you print the lid by itself if you do this. 

Labels (Titles)

RECOMMENDED: Enable the separatedSideLabels to print all the labels separately on their own bases/tags that you can then superglue onto the side. This also opens the possibility of using something like double-sided tape so you can swap out the labels later. Just add a filament swap at the appropriate layer. 

• Use the labelExtraBaseWidth setting to control the width of the tag bases. If you have very small slots then some or all of the tag bases might join together and have to be printed as a single unit due to spacing limitations. 

Alt: You can rotate the box so the side lettering is facing up, allowing for a filament swap to make the lettering a different color. This works, but if you have large slots (for holding lots of cards) the internal overhangs get pretty messy and can make it difficult or impossible to get cards in. Definitely do a test print first if you go this route. 

Alt: Paint each letter individually in the slicer. This is tedious and results on a lot of wasted filament from color swaps, but is still easier than hand-painting them IRL. 

Assembly

Add a generous layer of superglue to the base of the lid clips and press them into the notches in the lid. MAKE SURE the side of the clip with the triangular catch is facing out! See the pictures for a visual aid. 

• The lid can be removed by gently pressing in and slightly up on the clips, one at a time or at the same time. Once both clips are released the lid will easily lift off. 

If you printed the labels separately, use superglue (or whatever) to attach them to the side of the box. 

Presets

MakerWorld's Customizer currently doesn't seem to support OpenSCAD presets, so to use these you'll have to download all the files locally and open this in OpenSCAD. Make sure the .json preset file is in the same folder as the .scad file. 

This currently includes presets for the following sleeved card sets, using the card cost as a label prefix:

• Dominion 2e base cards
• Dominion 2e kingdom cards
• Dominion Base Card set (which includes Platinum, Potion, and Colony additions)
• Dominion Big Box base cards
• Alchemy
• Dark Ages (full set and split into 2)
• Empires (full set and split into 2)
• Intrigue (full set and split into 2)
• Menagerie (full set and split into 2)
• Nocturne (full set and split into 2)
• Prosperity
• Renaissance (full set and split into 2)
• Seaside (full set and split into 2)

NOTE: These presets assume the cards are sleeved with Mayday standard clear sleeves (0.04mm thick material) since that's what I use. Modify or remove the sleeveThickness value to match your cards. Rendered STLs of these presets are included in the STL zip file. 

Custom Fonts

MakerWorld's Customizer currently doesn't seem to support custom font imports, so to use these you'll have to download all the files locally and open this in OpenSCAD. 

All included fonts are distributed under licenses that allow for free personal and commercial use.

I'm not including the font for the pictured Dominion logo because I don't have permission from RGG to distribute it, but you can grab it here after creating a free account: https://boardgamegeek.com/filepage/73273/dominion-card-icons-vector-images