Retro Mouse with Hot-swappable Switches

Like the clicky sounds on your mechanical keyboard and want it on your mouse? Look no further!

Retro Mouse HS is a fun and easy-to-build DIY mouse perfect for your first-time hardware hacking project, that also makes your every mouse click extra clicky!

Features

• Retro design
• Hot-swappable switches
• Customizable
• Suitable for soldering beginners

Updates

• 2024/06/13 – Improved Bottom Plate V1.1 for improved solder wires guiding.

Tested Mechanical Switch Brands

• Kalih
• TTC

The Retro Mouse HS should be compatible with most of the mechanical switch brands out on the market, please let me know if you've tested any brand that is not on the list and I will add it back on!

Building Instructions

Printing Recommendation

• Material, PETG/ PLA, both should work just fine, but as PLA tends to loosen up under stress over time, it is recommended to use PETG for the parts, especially the Battery Plate. The mouse that I am using right now is printed mostly in PLA (except for the Battery Plate) and is still working fine.
• You can also try adaptive layering if you encounter any problems printing out the overhangs, as I used quite steep fillets to achieve the retro curve looks.

Materials and Tools

• Bambulab's Wireless Mouse Components Kit 002
• Mechanical keyboard switches of your choice x2-4 (You need at least 2 switches, 4 is recommended for stability)
• 0.8mm solder wire
• Desoldering pump/ solder sucker
• Soldering iron
• Flush cutter
• Tweezers (optional)

Step 1: Desolder the 2 original switches on the Mouse Kit 002's PCB.

Step 2: Solder 4 solder wires to the holes as shown, remember to leave some extra length for each solder wire.

Step 3: Dry fit the PCB onto the Bottom Plate, arrange and cut the solder wires as shown, you do not need to push the solder wires in.

Step 4: Insert the Scroll Wheel into the PCB, place the optical lens and toggle switch onto the Bottom Plate, then place the PCB onto the Bottom Plate as shown.

Step 5: Using tweezers or any shape object, slightly tilt up the solder wires so that they're not touching the PCB, and should have a small gap in between. That should allow the pins on your mechanical switches to push into the solder wires and create the connection. Version 1.1 Bottom Plate has a slightly taller walls to better guide the solder wires, but the assembly stays the same.

Step 6: Push the mechanical switches into the Mouse Body from the top of the Mouse Body, you should hear a click when the switch is inserted correctly, be cautious about the switches' orientation. In theory, the mouse is fully functional with only 2 switches, but the extra 2 provide stability for different mouse-clicking postures.

Step 7: Push the DPI Button Connector into the Mouse Body as shown, then push the DPI Button into the Connector.

Step 8: Connect the wiring for the battery as shown.

Step 9: Assemble the Mouse Body with the Bottom Plate, insert an AA battery, turn on the mouse and make sure the left and right click work, if either click doesn't work, repeat step 5 and slightly tilt up all 4 solder wires. If everything is working as it should, congrats! We are almost there!

Step 10: Turn over the mouse, screw in the 2 screws that come in kit. Then stick the 4 Mouse Skate Pads onto the Bottom Plate.

Step 11: Place the Keycaps, there are 2 versions of them, flat and tilted, install the one that you prefer, and push them in firmly, there are cutouts left on the keycaps for the scroll wheels. The keycaps might get stuck while you install them for the first time, but they will loosen up after a few more clicks.

Optionally, you can use any existing 1.75u keycap that you like. However, while using a 1.75u keycap, you need to remove the 2 switches at the back.

Flat version keycaps

Tilted version keycaps

Step 12: Enjoy your new mechanical mouse!

FAQ

• I would like to hot-swap a switch.
  • Just like any mechanical keyboard, hot-swapping is an easy process, simply pull out the old switch and plug in a new one. However, it is highly recommended to use a key switch puller during the process, otherwise, you may risk damaging the solder wires and greatly reduce the lifespan of the solder wires.
• Either click doesn't work after hot-swapping a new switch.
  • Power off the mouse, remove the non-functioning switch, use a tweezers to tilt up the solder wires corresponding to the non-functioning switch and try installing the switches again.
• What's the difference between using 2 and 4 switches?
  • In theory, the mouse is fully functional with only the front 2 switches, the 2 switches at the back are to provide extra stability, accounting for different mouse-clicking gestures. I encourage you to try out both of the set-ups and see which one you like the best.
  • 2 switches = lighter clicks, slightly wobbly
  • 4 switches = slightly heavier clicks, but stable