I present a pokeball desiccant container for keeping your filament dry in style!

The lid twists into place like on a jar, and a small amount of grippiness is added. It's scalable down to ~80% to fit in the center of filament rolls, or the current size is just about right to fit into the bottom of a gallon sized bag with a roll. 75% scale is alright but the walls start to get quite thin at that point.
 

There's three main considerations when printing this:

- Multicolor: Obviously a pokeball has to have the right colors, but if we print this model in all three colors you're looking at color changes every single layer and a 14+ hour print. I recommend two colors using the layout as is, that way there's only one color change. Then, fill in the black portion with black acrylic paint or even better paint pens if you're not skilled with a brush. Looks just as good and saves you a ton on print time and filament. If you do choose to print in all 3 colors, you should enable the prime tower and print the ball and lid on separate runs so you can use the adaptive layers.
 

- Supports: The ideal layout for color means it's printing with the threads in a vertical position which is a bit difficult, and it's tough to support the top of the sphere. I tried many different approaches and settled on manual tree supports with an extreme support angle, which works well. If you adjust the scale, you will likely need to alter support parameters to get the supports to work like they do in the below screenshot - adjust tree support branch angle (between 50-60), and/or reduce the tree support branch diameter until it angles in from the outside without actually going through the object, and reaches the top of the sphere. It's okay if it touches the bottom of the opening, it's easy to remove.  You may need to try a bunch of different settings to get the slicer to do it right.

You will have to do some post-processing on the thread (break supports outward) and the bottom. You should be able to print it totally clean if you use a support interface material, otherwise you'll need to work on it for a bit and potentially ‘reopen’ the holes on the bottom with a thin sharp object like pointy tweezers. Supports are painted on to minimize this but it's unavoidable to some extent. The thread is fairly forgiving so you just need to remove any excess left behind.

- Layer height: This isn't necessarily the easiest print given the combination of it being a sphere plus having air holes, printing it with regular settings won't necessarily look great. I found the best solution was to manually customize the adaptive layers, with moderate consistent layer sizes across overhanging holes and small layers at the top and bottom. I suggest using the profiles as they are.  Default adaptive settings looks pretty bad and makes the layer sizes way too small for the overhanging portions of the sphere.