Please note, there is one plate named “Test for XY Hole Compensation”, I suggest you print that first and test the fit of the lens and magnets. If necessary, you can adjust your XY holes compensation as needed under the quality setting in the slicer. On my X1C I did not need any adjustment.

The model is a desiccant bin shaped as a half-moon to install on the 2 sides of the AMS lid. The design holds a large quantity of desicant beads (approx 110 gm) and gives a large surface area to more efficiently remove moisture. With my prior desiccant boxes I'd hover around 25% humidity, with just one of these installed I'm already down to 17%. After another 8 hours with two of these installed I'm at 12% in the AMS with the room at 45%.

I place extra holes in the model for additional 6mm x 1.7 magnets. I only used 5 holes, at the corners, top and 2 in the center, and it holds perfectly. You'll need 2 magnets for each hole location. One gets glued to the bin, the other glued to the AMS lid. You only want a very small dab of super glue gel to get them to bond.

To glue follow these steps so that you keep the correct polarity of the magnets: (read fully first before beginning)

- stack all of your cylindrical magnets.

- put a dab of super glue in 1 hole

- plunge the stack into that hole and then slide the stack to leave two magnets. (make sure not glue seeped out to contact the second magnet, if it did remove the second magnet, wipe the residue off, and wait until the super glue fully cures before reattaching second magnet)

- do this for each location you want a magnet.

- After you have all your magnets glued to the bin and a second magnet stacked on those, you'll add a dab of gel super glue to each of the second magnets.

-don't overdo the dab of glue. (and make sure its gel or it could run)

- Now position the bin onto the AMS lid side pressing the glue against the lid.

- There are 3 tabs at the perimeter of the bin to help with proper alignment. Those should be in contact with the curved part of the lid.

- You'll need to eyeball align the straight edge of the bin to be parallel with the bottom straight edge of the lid.

- you could use clamps to hold it in place while curing but it should cure quickly if you only used a dab.

- Hold it in place until it cures applying uniform pressure, so all the magnets are in contact with the lid.

-After its fully cured you can remove the bin and assemble the second side to the bin and the lens.

The Lens: I purchase plexiglass lens from Amazon that fit the holes. Here's a link: Amazon.com: Enoin 30 Pack 1.5 Inch Round Clear Acrylic Sheets Plexiglass Sheet 1/8 Inch Thick, Disc Circle Platic Sheet 0.118'', Transparent Board Panel for Glass, DIY Project, Paintings, Art Craft : Industrial & Scientific, they a 30 for $8.

As an option, you can print the lens in the model files with a clear PLA. They are thin and should show the color of the beads well enough. I printed my bin with clear PLA and really don't need the lens window as I can see the color of the beads through it.

If you want to install the printed lens temporarily while you wait on the plexiglass ones to arrive just hot melt glue them with a few dabs.

Glueing the bin together:

Attaching the two bin sides will require gluing. First insert the sliding door into the channel at the top. If you're going to replace the lens also glue the sides together with a few dabs of hot melt glue on the outside seam (not the interlocking channel).

If you're ready to permanently glue the bin together, put a dab of super glue gel every couple inches around the perimeter on the interlocking channel. and press the two sides together making sure the sliding door is seated in both sides of the channel.

Filling the desiccant: I modeled a funnel to fit this elongated fill slot. A few inregular beads could get stuck in the funnel. I used a small pointed file to get them to pass.