V5.5 - This is an acoustic-electric version of my recent soprano ukulele design. It includes an under-the-saddle piezo and jack panel to electrify the uke!

Click here for printed ukulele tuners I designed to go with this uke.

I've also designed a mount to hang the uke from the wall.

.3mf files that are attached are grouped by the color scheme that I use.  They also include the tuner parts.

If you prefer more conventional tuners, the hole patterns match Grover brand ukulele tuners, model 9NB.

In addition to the printed parts, you'll need one Number 4, 1'' wood screw to screw the headstock to the neck and four #2 3/8'' wood screws to attach the jack panel to the body. The #2 3/8'' screws are also used for the tuners.

I also used a 200 mm long, 5 mm diameter carbon fiber rod in the neck for strength. The rod is available from Amazon. If you don't want to use the carbon fiber rod, there is a version of the neck available without the rod hole.

For the under-the-saddle piezo, I use the Musiclily Basic Transducer Under Bridge Saddle Ceramic Piezo Pickup for Ukulele, 50mm×2.2mm, available from Amazon.

The 1/4" (6.35mm) Output 4mm Input Endpin Jack, Piezo Pickup Jack is also available from Amazon.

Print Settings

• Printer brand: Bambu Lab
• Printer: P1S
• Rafts: No
• Supports: No
• Resolution: 0.12 mm
• Infill: 50%
• Filament brand: Hatchbox, Polylite, Bambu lab, Elegoo
• Filament color: Various
• Filament material: PLA
• Notes:

All parts were printed with 5 shell layers and 50% infill for strength. No supports, rafts, or brims required for any part. It's probably possible to reduce the infill to 35% or so, but I haven't tried it.

Various parts were glued together. I like Gorilla brand superglue gel. See the video for pictures of the build.

If the bridge isn't glued properly, it can pull off. I found lightly sanding the bottom of the bridge really helps. I also apply pressure using clamps for 10 or 15 minutes to make sure it is strongly attached.

Most parts were printed with 0.12 mm resolution. However, the fretboard was printed with 0.08 mm resolution. For the fretboard, I paused the print at the top of the fretboard to change filament colors, so that the frets print in a different color than the fretboard.

You'll need :

• Body
• Either the neck, or neck - no rod hole
• Either the Headstock - with inlay, or Headstock - no inlay
• Headstock inlay (if using the Headstock - with inlay)
• Jack panel
• Bridge
• Center ring
• Fretboard
• five fret markers
• Saddle
• Headstock screw cover

If using the carbon fiber rod print the Neck. Otherwise print the neck - no rod hole.

The headstock is designed with a decorative inlay. If you want to use the inlay, print the Headstock - with inlay, and the Headstock inlay.

If you prefer not to deal with the inlay, print the Headstock - no inlay.

You'll need five of the fret markers.

On the bottom of the body is a screw hole. You can either attach a strap pin to the bottom of the uke with this screw hole, or fill the hole with the Bottom screw.

The saddle is a compensated saddle. When placing it in the slot in the bridge, pay attention to the orientation. The peaks in the middle part of the bridge should be further from the top of the uke, and peaks on the edges of the bridge should be nearer the top.