Machinist Indicator Clock

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Machinist Indicator Clock

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X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 35% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 35% infill
Designer
25.4 h
8 plates
4.5(2)

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Description

**Be aware that this model requires several non 3d printed parts to assemble**

 

Required Parts:

  1. Heat press threaded inserts in M4 and M5. I used these from Mcmaster Carr but others may work - 94180A363 and 94180A353
  2. M4 Heat press threaded inserts = 5
  3. M5 Heat press threaded inserts = 1
  4. M4 x 16mm SHCS = 2 (Bolts for connecting main body and stylus end body)
  5. M4 x 10mm SHCS = 2 (Connects clock OD ring to Main Body)
  6. M3 x 10mm SHCS = 2 (Connecting stylus arm to stylus barrel)
  7. M5 x 20mm Setscrew or cut off bolt = 1 (Used for stylus to stylus barrel - glue into end of stylus)
  8. Clock Mechanism - This is what I used from amazon. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BY4S9QHG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 )

 

This is a replica of a machinist indicator made into a wall clock. The inner and outer face files are in a .3mf format to easily assign colors to body parts instead of painting. I'll list the colors below that I used for a fairly accurate representation of the original.

 

I printed the Inner and outer clock face plated on a carbon fiber pattern plate. Hence my setting for textured plate. All other textured plate settings were for the original textured plate surface to add some complimentary details to the printed part surfaces.

 

Color Info - All printed in PLA+ and Silk PLA

PLA+ White = Clock Faces

PLA+ Black = Clock Face numbers & graphics, OD Ring, Stylus Cross Bolt, Stylus Nut, Stylus Barrel, Face Needle

PLA+ Light Grey = Main Body, Stylus End Body

PLA+ Silver = Stylus, Body Screws

PLA+ Orange = Clock face logo, Clock Face Ring Markers

Silk PLA Red = Stylus (ball), Stylus Set Screw

Silk PLA Copper = Stylus Arm

 

Assembly:

You will need to glue the inner, outer, and od ring together. Super glue works well. There are registration notches to align all the pieces correctly. You can also glue the face needle to the inner clock face by the secondary dial where it has the 0/.008/.016 markings. Now install the clock mechanics, but save the hands till last as they are easily bendable.

 

Next you will need to insert heat press fittings into the both the main body and stylus end body pieces. Two of the M4 inserts go into the raised curved parts that fit inside the OD Ring of the clock face on the Main Body. The next two go into the Stylus End Body so you can bolt together this and the Main Body. The last heat fitting goes into the stylus barrel and allows you to thread on and off the stylus itself. **Alternately you could glue all these pieces permanently together.

 

Bolt both body pieces together. Glue in the Stylus Set Screw in the recess of the dovetail on the stylus body end and glue the Body Screw pieces to the recesses on the side of both body pieces. Bolt the Stylus Arm to the Stylus barrel and assemble together with the Cross Bolt and Stylus Nut. The Stylus has a modeled M5 thread so you can just thread in the M5 set screw and “jam” it in place or glue also works. Thread on the Stylus into the Stylus Barrel.

Comment & Rating (7)

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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 35% infill
Awesome model. Hung it in the shop next to one of our CMM's. I did get rid of the "made in the basement" text as I feel like it sort of killed the realism of the face. Thanks for the model 👍
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what Total Shaft Length do i need ?
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what Shaft are you referring to?
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Can it be printed in A1 mini?
The designer has replied
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unfortunately I don't know for sure since I don't own one. but the only limitations would be bed size. so if it fits it prints!
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thank you very detailed
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 35% infill
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