Hi everyone,

I wasn’t really satisfied with my cable routing for my dashcam. I wanted a better solution that would be far more integrated and cleaner. So, after some time of sourcing materials, I made this overcomplicated and overengineered thing.

What I wanted:

• Completely hidden: You’re unable to see it from any angle in the car
• OEM look: I’m using VW connectors for more factory look.
• Fully disconnectable: If you don’t want it anymore, you can just plug it off from the car.
• Easy to print: Model is easy to print even from ABS and fits perfectly.
• FutureProof design: You can simply change a USB connector without doing all the work again.

How it works and how I made it:

As I already said I wanted a completely clean look for my dashcam power cable, because the original cable plugged into car socket wasn’t perfect. 

If you don’t feel confident by removing some panels in your car, this mod isn’t for you, sorry. For installation you need to get in the headliner, A pilar and unscrew the fuse box. It’s not difficult but it takes some time and effort. I feel safe to say there isn’t something you can screw up (but everything is on you).

Box fits perfectly in the MK1 VW Tiguan with left hand drive, maybe in other similar age VW, but it’s not tested. You can use these dimensions bellow for reference and let me know if it fits in some other car.

List of materials:

• Fuse Crimp Terminals: (VAG N 907 327 03)
• 4 Pin Connector: (VAG 1J0 973 804)
• DC/DC StepDown Module: (CR-D4080P, Pick 5V option)
• 2 Pin Connector: (VAG 3B0 972 712 and VAG 3B0 972 702)
• 3x5mx0,5mm2 cable: (Yellow, Red, Black, I picked with silicone insulation)
• Heat Resistant Tape: (Width is up to you)
• M6 O connector: (Required is one, so take more)
• M8 Nut: (I’m using flange lock nuts)  
• M3 Heat Insert nuts: (I used 5mm length)
• 5XM3X5mm Screws: 
• Standard car fuse: (2A or smaller)
• USB cable: (Connector is up to you, length min0,5m, L shaped connector and braded cable is advised for better look)

Just in case these links don’t work, you should be able to find everything by its number. In time of ordering all of these materials had free fast shipping available (Ali Choice). 

Prep work and foreword:

• Try If It Fits: First of all, go in the car and try if model fits in your car. Remove the plastic trim on the side of the dashboard, it’s doable without any tolls, just by hand.
• Solder Connections: Desolder the plastic terminal and solder in the cables: input black and red, and output black and yellow as in picture bellow.
• Install Module: Insert the heat inserts into the five holes, pull the cables through the cable slot, screw the module in, and crimp them into a male 4-pin connector that should slide right in. Since the covers fit tightly and will break if removed, leave them aside until you have finished and confirmed everything works.
• Tip: Highly advice to check from time to time for voltage and continuity in your new cables.

Installation steps:

1. Fuse Box:

• Check Fuse Positions: First of all, check if positions 25-27 are free and have voltage only when the ignition is ON. If not, try another big slot. If you aren't successful, unfortunately, this mod isn't suitable for your vehicle unless you find any other place with similar behavior.
• Remove Screws: Remove the two screws holding the fuse box, hidden behind the small glove box under the light switch.
• Unclip Bracket: Unclip the OBD socket and light bracket that sits right behind the fuse box. Although it’s not easy to see, by searching with your hand, you can find the clip holding this plastic bracket. After releasing the bracket, you should be able to take out the fuse box from behind and release the back cover. It might feel a bit scary, but don’t worry—the cables are securely fastened and will not go anywhere.
• New Fuse Terminal: Insert a new fuse terminal with approximately 1 meter of red cable into position 27 (this slot is never used, even in the highest configurations). Manage the cable within the wire harness. If desired, you can secure it with heat-resistant tape for a cleaner look and better cable routing. End this tape right next to the large wire junction, where we will continue with the ground wire in the next step.

2. Ground Connection:

• Ground Connection: To get a ground connection, the easiest designed connection is under the steering wheel, though it’s difficult to wire nicely (Ground Connection 605). For better wiring, use the ground connection at the bottom of the A pillar next to the bonnet release handle (Ground Connection 44). The handle has a small lock—watch some YouTube videos to avoid damage. For removing the plastics, follow brief instructions with pictures. You don’t need to remove the entire panel, just bend it enough to access the ground connection, but be carefull not to bend it.
• Connect Ground Wire: Unscrew the nut and insert a new O connector with approximately 1 meter of black cable. Wire the cable alongside the brown cables into the wire harness until you reach the red cable from the previous step. Wrap these two cables together with tape for at least 0,5 meters. The tape will help with wiring the cable later and also give it a more factory-like appearance.

3. Headliner Cable:

• Dome Lights: Remove the dome lights. There are plenty of videos on YouTube showing how to do this. You will need to unscrew even the mounting black frame to get better access.
• USB Cable: Pull the USB cable through the gap between the windshield and headliner. Measure the length needed to connect your camera and the white clip, which is used for securing the connector. Cut the cable and crimp a female 2-pin connector to the black and red wires of the USB cable. Secure any unused wires with tape to prevent accidental short.
• Headliner Cable: Take black and yellow cables and crimp them into a male 2-pin connector. Pay attention to the polarity: yellow to red and black to black. Wrap approximately 2.5 meters of these two cables with tape to provide strength and some fire protection (just in case).
• Route Cable: Pull this cable through the roof to the left A pillar. Be aware of the cable routing to avoid the pillar airbag. Best but not easiest way is to follow the factory harness. Secure your cable to the original one under the pillar trim panel. Leave the cable for now next to the white temperature sensor and factory harness.

4. Dashboard Cable Routing:

• Route Power Cable: Route the bottom cable (from the fuse box and ground) to the gap where we left the headliner cable.
• Secure Cables Together: Where the cables meet, wrap tape them together for approximately 30 cm to make them stiffer. Pull the cables alongside the factory cable closer to the light switch.

5. Converter Box:

• Secure the Module: Screw the module in (remember, it’s only plastic, so don’t strip it). Crimp the female 4-pin connector onto the cable at a length that suits your installation. If you leave the cable slightly longer here it doesn’t matter and can even help with crimping the connector.

Finale: After plugging in connector, don’t connect camera yet, check for correct voltage on solder joints first just in case.

Let me know if you find this mod useful, or if you have any questions.

For easier remixes I’m sharing also CAD file.