The design is fully tested but the documentation is work in progress, Please message if there any queries. Last edited 24\09\23.

Attribution & Credit to the Voron Design Team

I am not quite sure if this can be classed as a formal remix and if I classed it as such, would it confuse things? I therefore want to give full attribution & credit to the Voron Design Team for the original Voron 2.4 R2 design, documentation & their awesome, open source design work in general.

Attribution & Credit to nhchiu

Large Gear CW2 by nhchiu. See Stealthburner section below.

https://www.printables.com/model/404246-large-gear-clockwork2

Attribution & Credit to togi

My side mounted exhaust mod is based on this great Voron mod. The original works perfectly fine, I have just added additional lid fixings and reoriented the part to print a little better IMHO. I will publish separately as a remix.

Voron Mods - Exhaust housing side fitting by togi (vorondesign.com)

Conversation Costs

Some first thoughts regards this conversion. You will only be really retaining the Extrusion Frame kit from the original HEVO (unless you are already using Klipper and can reuse the RPI).

You will not be able to reuse the existing controller board unless it can control 7 stepper motors individually for use with the QGL(Quad Gantry Levelling).

Individual Nema 17 Stepper Motors may be reused but not ones with integrated lead screws. Better to have four matching stepper motors for the Z lifts. High temp motors are better for the X&Y motors within the chamber.

Undertaking this endeavour you will be certainly saving approximately $150 on the frame but you could also spend at least another $700 to $900 on additional items, dependent of specification to complete this project.

This is still very good value compared to some higher end kits available but still a significant expense. The expenditure just needs to be considered before undertaking this project. Things can get out of hand, you have been warned!

Publication Criteria - Please Read before Commenting

Update: 24_09_23

Uploaded STL files
Uploaded Main Parts BOM
Uploaded Vevo Specific Infographic
Uploaded Deck Panel Drawing.

Uploaded QGL & Bed Mesh config settings

The stls have not been translated for best print orientation yet. It is on a long list. Please comment here or on the discord for any clarification.

Discord: https://discord.gg/WmZrQFNe

Please comment or message and I will attempt to answer in short order.

I am not wanting to reinvent the wheel with this publication. I have included a full Fusion 360 file to illustrate the general assembly of the conversion but will upload the BOM & the STL files to those that are different to the magnificent work the Voron Design Team have already created in the original BOM, Manual & STL files.

If any of the Voron Design Team have any issues with any of this or any form of attribution\license, please let me know and I will adjust asap to suit accordingly.

I have noted where there is a specific changes to fixings and to what size. However, I will not list all the stock fixings in the original manual or BOM, only the changes.

I have also designed various additional mods for the Vevo such as a Pivoting top mounted display:

BTT TFT35-SPI V2.1 Pivoting Display Mount by boothyboothy | Download free STL model | Printables.com

Stock versus Bespoke Parts

The majority of the parts are as stock except for the odd bolt here & there. The major change is the use of MGN12H Linear Rails to the Z axis because the 3030 extrusion slot is to large for the stock MGN9H rails to the Z axis. The design still retains MGN9H rails to the Y axis and a MGN12H rail to the X axis but both are different lengths to the stock V2.4 300 design.

There are also 3 additional lengths of 2020 extrusion required for the XY Gantry. Two of the existing 2020 HEVO bed supports can be reused for the Build Plate support but will require some additional square washer to make up 6 mm over the length has they are slightly too short.

The motor idler pulleys on the Z Motor assembly are positioned 33 mm awy from the shaft as per the Voron Docs but are inverted to allow for the larger extrusion. This is a biggy & needs to be noted. Not inverting the pulleys will cause a lot of bother later in the assembly. I will attempt to publish something on this soon.

Please make sure you refer to the Manual addendum pages when published or message me. There are a few tweaks, like reversing the Z axis pulley\idler wheels, that will be bothersome to revise much later in the build.

Additional Tools Required:

Electric hand or bench mounted drill

Threading Tap to thread the extrusion core. Size to suit extrusion style.

Fine metal centre punch.

Bench Vice or clamps makes life a lot easier.

Frame Assembly

There is some basic fabrication required to the extrusions. Some very basic metal working skills are required as a minimum. A bench drill and a vice are not essential but they do make life very much easier. A printed drill jig may be an option if using a hand drill. You will also need either a 6 or 8 mm tap to thread the end of the extrusions. I do not intend to explain the best practise or provide jigs for both these required processes. If the 3030 extrusion includes a linear centre punch detail. marking the centre line 15 mm in with a punch prior to drilling is a relatively easy and accurate operation.

With the blind hole method of assembly, the holes have plenty of tolerance. All they are doing are acting as a clearance holes, allowing access to the wrench to turn the concealed bolt. The bolt moves up and down the linear extruded slot detail so there is plenty of wriggle room relatively.

The V2 design really only lends itself to the Voron Blind\concealed hole assembly method. This conversion will really not work with some form of corner cleat as per other designs or the original HEVO assembly. There should not be an assumption that the existing HEVO frame assembly method can be used, this will not work or at best severely restrict the build volume.

The existing HEVO 3030 extrusion kit is assembled using the standard Voron blind hole method. Therefore dependant on style of extrusion (see the install docs) a 5.5 to 6 mm hole will be required 15 mm from the end on two sides of the 500 mm (z Axis ) extrusions. The adjacent extrusions will also needed to be tapped to accept the fixing bolts.

This method is far superior\neater to most other fixing methods I have used (well done Voronies!). It is also very rigid and squares things up nicely. Especially with a M8 bolt fix.

Stealthburner Hot End\Tool Head.

The Stealthburner included is my remix of various design elements and not stock. The current design uses the Voron Tap R8 as a levelling sensor. I have also incorporated with some remixing & thanks, Large Gear CW2 by nhchiu.

link here: Large Gear Clockwork2 by nhchiu | Download free STL model | Printables.com

I will publish the Big Gears remix separately & attribute the remix in the near future when I have converted to the Stock SB.

I have also included an additional top bolt fix to the main body and included my Kenny Mod 2 for the BTT Knomi Display link here: Kenny Mod 2 for the BTT Knomi Display by boothyboothy | Download free STL model | Printables.com

The current Fusion file includes a standard Revo Voron hot end. There is an additional Rapido UHF version contained in the above Kenny Mod 2 but the main body is stock without my top fix. Has this design uses the standard Voron Tap all stock options are available from the Voron Design Git or web site. Alternatively the original R2 X carriage mount can still be used with a Klicky Probe if preferred.

If using the R8 tap onwards I would advise not going for the four magnet configuration. Even with glue, an interference fit with two opposing N52 magnets is just not sufficient in my personal experience.

An alternative stock SB fascia with a the top bolt fix mod is included within the Fusion file but the component is switched off by default.

Hinges, Handles & Panel Latches

An alternative Hinge with a 0.3 offset to allow more clearance for the door panels is also included in the Fusion file but again, switched off by default.

The Latch design uses several lengths of 1.5 copper wire, stripped from the centre of twin & earth electrical cable. Any similar diameter wire will do. My low profile Latch is quite small and uses quite a lot of tension. A length of plastic filament for the pivot as per other designs will not last IMHO.

There are alternative designs available online, just make sure the proposed panel sizes are taken into consideration when applying a different design.

I have included an extended handle detail just to provide a greater surface area for the VHB tape adhesion to the doors. The smaller stock versions are in the CAD file but switched off by default.

Printing

The Large gear Motor & Main plate for the SB does have some integrated supports to help print the bed facing rebates.

I have used dual layers heights on the Z axis joints. Reducing the layer height down to 0.1 to make the knuckle joint has smooth has possible at the top. I also sanded & polished both faces to the knuckle after printing to make sure the joint moves smoothly as possible without binding.

The Door Hinges also require a maximum layer height of 0.16 to the hinge shaft and aperture. A 0.2 layer will work but the hinge may feel a little rough during operation.

Generally I have printed all the parts in either ABS or ABS+ with 4 perimeters, 4 top & bottom layers & 30% infill.

Videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yg8zIM2desg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mi-Jn6-ShI8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2-N2EaZag8&t=2s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zLemlD3wsrc&t=3s

Good Luck & best wishes Boothy September 2023