Scouts BSA Light Box

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Scouts BSA Light Box

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6
4
0

Print Profile(2)

All
X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

FACE - PLA on tPEI Plate
FACE - PLA on tPEI Plate
Designer
2.3 h
1 plate

BASE - PLA on tPEI Plate
BASE - PLA on tPEI Plate
Designer
7 h
2 plates

Boost
6
4
0
0
4
2
Released

Description

I got permission from our council and made up a pair of light boxes for a silent auction at this year's district recognition dinner!

 

Four colors per print maximum, so single-AMS friendly:
Face - red, white, blue, black
Base - black, silk silver, natural/glow-in-the-dark

 

Even though I opted not to use one on this print, the base print has mounting stand-offs for a Wemos D1 Mini v3 and a USB-C snap-in insert, so you could easily put WLED with some WS2812B LEDs if you wanted. Alternate version available with an additional cutout for a micro SPST switch.

 

This print uses two M1.7 self-tapping screws to hold together. You could of course use adhesive if you wish, but it did not seem to have sufficient surface friction to hold together without assistance. I suggest putting a little non-slip rug tape on the bottom of the back of the print to stop it from sliding around on the wall when touched.

 

The reflector layer in the base print is best done with a silk silver but could also be done with a white, or just simply assigned the same as the black (it's only two layers thick). The clear band around the base (the “accent”) works great with a transparent-style glow-in-the-dark or simply a natural (clear) PLA. In my material profile I have the accent material set to a very low maximum volumetric speed to ensure it prints hot and slow for maximum clarity. Please ensure you have similar settings for your material profile to ensure it does not print so fast as to be opaque! If you opt not to use this, simply assign it as your black material and it'll print normally and quickly.

 

The base reflector object has it's top surface layer set to print slowly in the object settings to ensure it is shiny; you do not need to modify anything in your material profiles to ensure this prints shiny.

 

As a bonus side-note - I first printed this using a “cold white” PLA that looked horrible. Stick to medium-high translucency (usually warmer) materials to avoid this! I took these pictures using my DSLR on manual with the exact same exposure and it's pretty accurate to the eye.

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