This same twist-and-lock glasses case as before, now with magnets!

*Updated to increase the wall thickness for the hooks so they will be more resistant to fracture.

The magnets are 5x2 mm round magnets and the ones I used can be found on Amazon here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09SW9BQ2D/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Other 5x2 mm magnets should work, depending on how tight their tolerances are.

These models were made before Bambu Lab's Maker's Supply store existed so the magnets used are from an external source. Bambu's magnets look to be just as good and cheaper (because there's only 20 instead of 100), so I've added print profiles for the 4x2 mm magnets to fit into. I have not confirmed that the tolerances will fit well, but in theory they should fit well.

In order to place them in the case, there is a pause in the print profile for both halves close to the beginning of the print, just before the printer starts the layers that cover the magnet holes. Once the printer pauses, simply place the magnets in each of the holes and then resume the print.

Be careful to get the polarity correct! On the first half you print polarity won't matter, but the second half needs to match up with the first or they will repel instead of attract! I've found the best way to do this is connect the new magnet to a magnet in the first half, then make sure that you keep track of the face that is attracted to the other halves' magnets and place that face face-down into the in-progress print. If done correctly, the polarity will be correct and when the cases are twisted together the magnets will also hold them together!

I've found the hooks on this version of the case to last much longer as the magnets are providing most of the force, and the hooks are mainly to make the edges of the glasses line up nicely (or you could say they're the alignment pieces for proper GD&T).

The two halves can be easily removed to put glasses into and then locked with a simple twist. The inner size is around 55 mm and should fit most glasses well. To connect the two sides, look at the flat side and position the non-hook side slightly above the hook side. The bottom of the non-hook's flat side should line up with the top of the hook's flat side. Check out the pictures above for where to position it. Then just twist them together and the flat side should line up. There are multiple print profiles containing both halves either together or separately so different colors (or the same color) can be used. 

Feel free to remix this design if you want to modify it. All the .stl, .3mf, and .f3d files are included here for your modifying needs.

Printed on a P1P, but should work on other printers.