Easy Strandbeest

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Easy Strandbeest

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X1 Carbon
P1S
P1P
X1
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Designer
7.2 h
4 plates
4.8(19)

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Description

This wind-driven version of Theo Jansen's Strandbeest is considerably simpler than most of the designs posted, using only 4 basic parts for the body of the beest. The first simplification is that the leg units print-in-place, pre-assembled. The second is that the crankshaft prints as a single, monolithic unit. Add 2 end pieces and connection rods on the side and you have yourself a Strandbeest!

 

This version is actually wind driven. In the animations shown, it is driven with a table fan on its LOW setting (I'm guessing maybe a 15mph breeze?). You have your option of chasing it around with a fan as it walks across your desk, or you can set it in the provided stand as a piece of kinetic art.

 

Printing

Printing is fairly straightforward. I recommend PLA for its stiffness and yield strength. The only areas that needs supports are the overhanging shafts on the crankshaft part. The other thing I changed from the standard settings is to slow down the print speed of the small perimeters so that the vertical shafts print with better layer adhesion.

 

For the basic beest, you will need to print two of the Legs plates (8 legs total) and one of the Misc plate. If you want to drive it around with a fan, you'll need to print the fan plate. The stand is optional, but nice for showing off.

 

Assembly

After printing the legs, all the pivots need to be broken free. Grasp adjoining links near the pivot point and gently crack each joint free. After everything is freed up, work each joint back & forth many times until it is completely loose. Wiht 8 legs, you can tolerate very little friction and still have it move under fan power. If a joint is particularly stubborn, you can work a razor blade into the horizontal gaps between the links. Lastly, apply a drop of light oil to each joint and wipe away the excess.

Each side rod has a long end and a short end. Starting with the long end of one rod, slide your first leg on in the orientation shown.

(Note: in the subsequent photos, the gap in the C-shaped end of the lower connecting arm is different than in the files provided. The gap is in a different position. This has been tested, and it makes the arms easier to assemble.)

Stack all four legs onto the side rod as shown, with the feet at the bottom and the longer end of the rod to your right. Assemble both side rods in exactly the same way.

Place one of the end pieces on the table and press the long end of the left rod into the taller of the receptacles and press the short end of the right rod into the shorter receptacle. The rods should press firmly into place and end up flush with the table.

 

Note that the flat sides of the rods should be oriented towards the center of the frame. This isn't critical, it just looks better.

Place one end of the crankshaft into the center hole in the end piece.
Now the slide the other end piece over the other end of the crankshaft and press both sides onto the ends of the side rods. The ends of the side rods should be flush with the outer surfaces of the end pieces.

Now comes the tricky part. You'll be clipping the ends of the upper and lower connecting arms to each section of the crank shaft. Note that each axle section of the crankshaft has a flat section that is a little thinner. For each arm that you clip on, you'll need to rotate the crankshaft to an orientation where the gap in the C-section aligns with the thin section. You can then snap the clip over the axle.

 

But don't start yet!

The legs operate in pairs, with one right leg and one left leg driven from the same axle section. The connecting arms for the left and right legs need to be clipped onto the axle in a specific order, starting from back to front as shown in the diagram.
Let's get started: clip the upper arm of the left leg first.
Next clip the lower arm of the left leg. Remember, you'll need to rotate the crankshaft some to make the flat section align with the gap in the end of the arm.
Now do the lower arm of the right leg.
And finally, the upper arm of the right leg.
When finished, it should look like this.The crankshaft should turn freely and operate all of the legs as it turns.
Now press the 60 tooth gear onto one end of the crankshaft. Make sure it doesn't rub against the face of the end piece.
Insert the fan into the upper hole in the end piece so that the small gear engages the big gear.
Finally, insert the retaining clip into the groove in the end of the fan shaft to secure it in place. You are now ready to set up your desk fan to drive your Strandbeest!

 

Comment & Rating (38)

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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Perfect, hardest part about it was using the razor blade to edge the joints but was well worth it; I haven't use lub, walks pretty good!!!
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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Oooh, excellent! I had to use a razor on a couple of the legs but most loosened up enough just working them back & forth. But then again, I had to oil mine, which is a little messy.
0
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
A high res YouTube video of the model on a turn table just seeing all the way around it would make assembly much easier. The photos in the instructions are pretty small and I cant really blow them up. I figured it out though.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
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Nice job with your print - does it work well? Regarding photos, I just today realized that in a Makerworld post, if you click on a photo, it won't show a high res version (unlike Printables.com). However, if you right-click on the image and "Open image in new tab", you'll get the high res version.
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It walks. It does not walk under fan power yet. I do not believe this is an issue with the design, I just need to lubricate some of the parts and adjust the clearance of the main gear when I have time. It does work though.
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Awesome model! Looks stunning and works great! I use a high powered fan(one to dust computers) and this thing runs away from me 😂
(Edited)
GIF
The designer has replied
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Yeah, I really need to work on a version that comes rather than runs away.
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Print Profile
0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Faszinierendes Modell !! Es ist wirklich einiges an Nacharbeit erforderlich. Ich habe alles fein säuberlich mit dem Rasiermesser sauber gemacht und sogar Wellen leicht angeschliffen. Ein wenig Nähmaschinen-Öl und es läuft super. Vielen Dank.
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0.2mm layer, 3 walls, 15% infill
Beautiful. One of the best thing I've ever printed.
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Wonderful model. I had to really clean up all the moving joints, but it will walk on its own if the wind is blowing. I estimate it needed about 10mph (16kph) to move itself. p.s. sorry about the potato quality gif
GIF
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I can't get the joints to break free when I try to print the legs. I'm hoping to avoid using a knife on all of the many joints :/ do you have any suggestions for settings I can tweak to get them to loosen up? I think it's an issue with those little "support" layers sticking too well, rather than a problem with the X/Y tolerance.
The designer has replied
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First check the preview to make sure there is a gap in the printed layers where the joint is. There should be one layer where the parts aren't connected at all, and the layer above that should be just some spokes that support the next solid layer. Other than that, try printing a little cooler.
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do you think i can print this at 80 or 90% on my a1 mini ? all fit expect for the sail wheel.
The designer has replied
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Probably. The tolerances will get a little tighter. You should also make sure to preview your print layers to make sure the horizontal gaps in the print-in-place leg assemblies are still there when you scale. Scaling the layer height by the same percentage should fix that, though.
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won't fit on A1m?
The designer has replied
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All except the fan blade will fit on an A1 mini.
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In love with this great design. Keep it up!
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