Fan Flow 360 Toroidal Air Duct X1C Fan Airflow Fan Flow Air Duct

Fan Flow 360 Toroidal Air Duct X1C Fan Airflow Fan Flow Air Duct

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Print Profile(9)

All
P1P
P1S
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1
A1 mini

0.1mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
0.1mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
Designer
58 min
1 plate
4.8(60)

0.2mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer, 4 walls, 10% infill
0.2mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer, 4 walls, 10% infill
Designer
2.1 h
1 plate
4.8(17)

0.2mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer, 4 walls, 0% infill
0.2mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer, 4 walls, 0% infill
Designer
1.9 h
1 plate
5.0(8)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 0% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 0% infill
Designer
31 min
1 plate
4.3(4)
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Description

With the introduction of the Air-Stream-Freezer, our team set itself the task of developing a model for the Bambulab X series. The biggest challenge was to make it LIDAR compatible. Our team rose to this challenge, further developed the Air-Stream-Freezer and quickly designed the Air-Stream-Turbine.

Once again, I would like to thank the entire team, who have once again invested every spare minute for months in the development of the project. Once again, it has been designed, designed, changed and tested. A special thank you to Paul, to whom we tirelessly handed over new designs so that he could check compatibility.

Once again, it is expressly stated that remixes of this product design are completely prohibited, as once again no phase or rounding off has been added more than necessary. To ensure that there is something for everyone's taste, this time there are of course two more versions available in addition to the 7 well-known ones:

Firstly, the original:

1: Air-Stream-Turbine (it wasn't called that for no reason) https://makerworld.com/en/models/429489#profileId-333824
2: Bambu Lab logo with lettering https://makerworld.com/en/models/429475#profileId-333807
3: Bambu Lab lettering single https://makerworld.com/en/models/429500#profileId-333837 
4: Bambu Lab logo single https://makerworld.com/en/models/429494#profileId-333828
5: Bambu Lab P1S version https://makerworld.com/en/models/429485#profileId-333817
6: Bambu Lab P1P version https://makerworld.com/en/models/429480#profileId-333812
7: completely without bells and whistles, branding or logo https://makerworld.com/en/models/429474#profileId-333806

Newly added:

8: Bambu Lab X1C version https://makerworld.com/en/models/429482#profileId-333814
9: Bambu Lab X1E version https://makerworld.com/en/models/429486#profileId-333819

What's new in this version:

The Air-Stream turbine can now be printed completely unsupported. There is a split inlet and an asymmetrical outlet for the air supply. Due to the asymmetrical outlet, it is only possible to speak of 360 degrees in relative terms, which is why we have omitted the degree sign in our illustration and replaced it with an asterisk.
In case of doubt, this model can be printed with only two walls and completely without infill with a 0.2 layer height. However, we recommend 3 walls with 10% infill and a layer height of 0.1, or 4 walls and 10% infill with a 0.2 nozzle. For all variants, a corresponding number of upper layers should be ensured. This means 5 layers with 0.2 and 10 layers with 0.1 layer height. The magnets that must be used are the same size as those used in the original Bambu Lab component. (4x2 & 2x2) For design reasons it was not possible to use larger magnets. At the point where the smaller magnet has to be placed, care must be taken when slicing that "recognize thin walls" is selected, as the wall thickness at this point is very small. However, this does not matter, the magnet can still be glued in cleanly without any problems and will hold. With a 0.2 Nozzle there is no problem at all, which is why the High Quality and Ultra pressure profile is specially designed for a 0.2 Nozzle.


 

It is generally known that the subject of component cooling is viewed with a great deal of skepticism and suspicion. Many people always want proof. But how and with what could you prove something if the evidence proves nothing, because it cannot prove anything, as it could just as well be manipulated? Then there are always many theoretical things that could possibly prove something, but theory and practice are worlds apart. That's why we won't try to convince anyone here. Everyone has to convince themselves. We simply want to invite everyone to do a little mini-experiment that they can understand for themselves. Place a glass filled with water under the original fan and everyone will be able to see the same result with their own eyes. The largest bulge in the water surface will not be in the middle under the nozzle, although this is where it would make the most sense in principle. The bulging of the water surface of the Air-Stream turbine, on the other hand, is much more centrally located under the nozzle. Again, these are facts that anyone can see for themselves if they are willing to carry out this simple test. Because let's not kid ourselves, pictures of a comparison of two 4-sided overhang tests do not seem to be credible enough, which is why we are sparing ourselves a direct comparison this time.


Last but not least, it should be noted that the component should only be printed by someone who can dismantle the original and assemble the reprinted one without help. We will not provide any help in this regard, nor will we encourage anyone to possibly destroy the front housing assembly of the printer. Or to put it another way, you dismantle at your own risk. One last point should be mentioned. This model can also be printed without infill and completely without support. Neither the model nor one of the four printing profiles can be held responsible in the event that it should become detached from the build plate during printing. We decided to add a GIF of a print (High Quality and Ultra print profile) to prove that with a clean build plate and well calibrated ABS filament it is possible to print successfully without support and without brim. For anyone else who may have difficulties, a brim could be added. However, this should not be an argument for rating the model or print profile poorly. 

What is the difference between the print profiles?

Fast Print: Nozzle 0.4 - layer height 0.2 - first layer 0.2 - walls 2 - infill 0 %
Medium: Nozzle 0.4 - layer height 0.1 - first layer 0.2 - walls 3 - infill 10 % Gyroid
High Quality: Nozzle 0.2 - layer height 0.1 - first layer 0.2 - walls 4 - infill 0 %
Ultra: Nozzle 0.2 - layer height 0.1 - first layer 0.2 - walls 4 - infill 10 % Gyroid

Thank you and have fun.

 


 


 


 

Mit der Einführung des Air-Stream-Freezer hat sich unser Team es zur Aufgabe gemacht, ein Modell für die Bambulab X-Serie zu entwickeln. Die größte Herausforderung dabei war es, diesen LIDAR kompatibel zu designen. Dieser Herausforderung hat sich unser Team gestellt, den Air-Stream-Freezer weiterentwickelt und kurzer Hand die Air-Stream-Turbine konzipiert.


 

Auch heute möchte ich mich abermals bei dem gesamten Team bedanken, das abermals wieder jede freie Minute seit Monaten in die Entwicklung des Projektes investiert hat. Es wurde wieder erneut entworfen, designed, geändert und getestet. An Paul gibt es ein besonderes Dankeschön, den wir unermüdlich neue Entwürfe übergaben, damit er die Kompatibilität überprüfen konnte.


 

Einmal mehr wird hiermit noch einmal Ausdrücklich erklärt, das Remixe von diesem Produktdesign vollständig untersagt sind, da auch hier wieder keine Phase oder Abrundung mehr als nötig hinein konstruiert wurde. Damit auch diesmal wieder etwas für jedermanns Geschmack dabei ist, stehen diesmal zu den 7 altbekannten natürlich zwei weitere Versionen zu Verfügung:


 

Zum einen das Original:


 

1: Air-Stream-Turbine (der wurde nicht ohne Grund so genannt) https://makerworld.com/en/models/429489#profileId-333824

2: Bambu Lab Logo mit Schriftzug https://makerworld.com/en/models/429475#profileId-333807

3: Bambu Lab Schriftzug einzeln https://makerworld.com/en/models/429500#profileId-333837

4: Bambu Lab Logo einzeln https://makerworld.com/en/models/429494#profileId-333828

5: Bambu Lab P1S Version https://makerworld.com/en/models/429485#profileId-333817

6: Bambu Lab P1P Version https://makerworld.com/en/models/429480#profileId-333812

7: komplett ohne Schnickschnack, Branding oder Logo https://makerworld.com/en/models/429474#profileId-333806


 

Neu dazugekommen ist:


 

8: Bambu Lab X1C Version https://makerworld.com/en/models/429482#profileId-333814

9: Bambu Lab X1E Version https://makerworld.com/en/models/429486#profileId-333819


 

Was ist neu an dieser Version:


 

Die Air-Stream-Turbine kann nun komplett ohne Unterstützung gedruckt werden. Es gibt einen geteilten Einlass und einen asymmetrischen Auslass für die Luftzufuhr. Durch den asymmetrischen Auslass kann nur relativ von 360 Grad gesprochen werden, weshalb wir anstelle des Grad Zeichens in unserer Abbildung abgesehen und dies mit einem Sternchen ersetzt haben.

Dieses Modell kann im Zweifelsfall mit nur zwei Wänden und komplett ohne Füllung mit einer 0.2 Schichthöhe gedruckt werden. Empfohlen wird allerdings 3 Wände mit 10% Füllung und einer Schichthöhe von 0.1, bzw. mit einer 0.2 Düse 4 Wände und 10% Füllung. Bei allen Varianten sollte auf entsprechend viel obere Schichten geachtet werden. Das heißt 5 Schichten bei 0.2 und 10 Schichten bei 0.1 Schichthöhe. Die Magneten die benutzt werden müssen, haben die selbe Größe wie die, die beim Original Bauteil von Bambu Lab verwendet wurden. (4x2 & 2x2) Konstruktionstechnisch war es nicht anderes möglich größere zu verwenden. An der Stelle wo der kleiner Magnet platziert werden muss, muss beim Slicen darauf geachtet werden, dass „dünne Wände erkennen“ ausgewählt wird, da die Wandstärke an dieser Stelle sehr gering ist. Dies macht aber nichts, der Magnet kann trotzdem ohne Probleme sauber darin eingeklebt werden und wird halten. Mit einer 0.2 Nozzle gibt es dahingehend überhaupt keine Problem, weshalb das High Quality und Ultra Druckprofil speziell für eine 0.2 Nozzle ausgelegt ist.


 

Im allgemeinen ist bekannt, dass das Thema Bauteilkühlung mit viel Skepsis und Argwohn beäugt wird. Viele wollen immer Beweise. Aber wie und womit könnte man denn etwas beweisen, wenn die Beweise nichts beweisen, weil sie nichts beweisen können, da sie ebenso gut manipuliert sein können? Dann gibt es immer viele theoretische Dinge die womöglich etwas beweisen können, doch zwischen Theorie und Praxis liegen bekanntlich ja auch Welten. Deswegen werden wir hier auch nicht versuchen irgendjemanden zu überzeugen. Überzeugen muss sich schon jeder selbst. Wir wollen lediglich jeden einladen ein kleines für jeden selbst nachvollziehbares Miniexperiment zu machen. Stellt ein Glas mit Wasser gefüllt unter den Originallüfter und jeder wird dasselbe Ergebnis mit seinen eignen Augen wahrnehmen können. Die größte Ausbeulung der Wasseroberfläche wird nicht mittig unter der Nozzle sein, wo es prinzipiell allerdings am sinnvollsten wäre. Die Ausbeulung der Wasseroberfläche der Air-Stream-Turbine hingegen ist wesentlich mittiger und zentraler unter der Nozzle wiederzufinden. Das sind wiederum Tatsachen von denen sich jeder selbst überzeugen kann, sofern er gewillt ist, diesen einfachen Test zu machen. Denn machen wir uns nichts vor, Bilder von einem Vergleich zweier 4 Seiten-Überhangtests scheinen, so wir wir feststellten, nicht glaubwürdig genug zu sein, weshalb wir uns diesmal einen direkten Vergleich ersparen.


 

Zu guter Letzt sei noch darauf hingewiesen, dass das Bauteil nur jemand drucken sollte, der auch ohne Hilfe, den Originalen demontieren und den neu Gedruckten montieren kann. Es wird von uns dahin gehend keinerlei Hilfe geben, noch werden wir jemanden dazu zu animieren, womöglich die vordere Gehäusebaugruppe des Druckers zu zerstören. Oder nochmal anders ausgedrückt, sie demontieren auf eigene Gefahr. Ein allerletzter Punkt sei noch erwähnt. Dieses Modell kann auch ohne Infill und komplett ohne Unterstützung gedruckt werden. Weder das Modell noch eins der vier Druckprofile kann etwas dafür, für den Fall dass es sich während des Druckes von der Bauplatte womöglich lösen sollte. Wir haben uns entschieden extra eine GIF von einem Druck (High Quality und Ultra Druckprofil) hinzuzufügen, um zu belegen, dass es mit einer sauberen Bauplatte und gut kalibrierten ABS Filament problemlos möglich ist ohne Unterstützung und ohne Brim erfolgreich zu drucken. Für alle anderen, die womöglich Schwierigkeiten bekommen sollten, könnten ein Brim hinzufügen. Allerdings sollte dies keine Argument dafür sein, das Modell oder Druckprofil schlecht zu bewerten.


 

Worin unterscheiden sich die Druckprofile?


 

Fast Print: Düse 0.4 – Schichthöhe 0.2 – erste Schicht 0.2 – Wände 2 – Füllung 0 %

Medium: Düse 0.4 – Schichthöhe 0.1 – erste Schicht 0.2 – Wände 3 – Füllung 10 % Gyroid

High Quality: Düse 0.2 – Schichthöhe 0.1 – erste Schicht 0.2 – Wände 4 – Füllung 0 %

Ultra: Düse 0.2 – Schichthöhe 0.1 – erste Schicht 0.2 – Wände 4 – Füllung 10 % Gyroid


 

Danke und viel Spaß.


 


 


 


 

Comment & Rating (163)

Please fill in your opinion
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I liked the idea a lot. But in practice it does not work as expected. 1- The air flow reduces its strength along the way. 2- The focus point of the air flow is not directly to the tip of the nozzle. The flow makes a circle about 1cm radius around the nozzle tip; cools irrelevant areas. As you see on the comparison photo (that I printed the test part under exact same conditions, except ducts) the deformation starts from 50 degrees on printed duct; on the other hand the deformation starts from 60 degrees on the original duct. As a suggestion; I do recommend adjusting the air nozzle angles to flow directly to the nozzle tip. And a much powerful fan can be used. Iwill follow the post for further improvements. Thank you.
35
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I think it might be better to add an extra fan
0
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so is this duct only a joke?
3
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Replying to @rudan :
seems so.
2
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I would like to see some comparison between this mount and the original on some test prints. Is it really printing with better results? Over the years I become a little skeptical on these modifications.
(Edited)
16
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I agree 100% agree may look pretty but I feel like these fand ducts are a solution looking for a problem.
3
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see my post
0
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Sadly my results are worse than the original.
0
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Just what we need, something else to attach to the head that will soon melt and crash. Just NO. there is zero need to change how the air flows... The air is 99% here to keep the filament from melting above the nozzle. Forget to remove when you print ASA or ABS or any PC type materials and It'll melt.
16
Reply
Boosted
Print Profile
0.1mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
Perfect print, and yes I’m crazy for three colors but so worth it!! time to install.
(Edited)
The designer has replied
4
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That looks really cool! how long did it take you to make it?
2
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Replying to @CopyKnight :
Can you upload your print profile?
1
Reply
Replying to @RobertsCustomPa :
yes absolutely, Niellex should do it 👍
(Edited)
1
Reply
Print Profile
0.2mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer, 4 walls, 0% infill
Printed well, but I used a Bambu Studio system preset 0.08mm Extra Fine for my 0.4 hardened nozzle. Printed it with PLA Meta from Sunlu, I don't know yet if it will have enough heat resistance for the use case, but I don't have any other type of filament right now. So I just gonna go with it. Had some stringing but could get rid of it with a lighter. Otherwise nice design, I hope a lot that it will improve my print quality.
The designer has replied
2
Reply
If you only print pla or petg for the most part, it should probably hold. However, if you have a permanently closed housing and print a lot with a high print bed temperature, it could be that it will eventually deform... just try it out.... the print looks good :)
2
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Replying to @CopyKnight :
Thank you for the info! Actually I only use PLA, just started with 3D printing. I restoring old cars as a living and I often run into the issue that I can't get some parts cause they are not produced anymore. I just thought why don't I just start with 3D printing and get them done by myself way easier, until now I always have build stuff I couldn't get by hand (which takes a lot of time), so in future I will probably print only PC-CF Filaments but this will still take some time until I reach that level with CAD and print precision.
2
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Replying to @BizzyTheBear :
I have sent you a message.
0
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Print Profile
0.1mm layer, 3 walls, 10% infill
genial,la impresión perfecta 👌🏻
The designer has replied
1
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good print :)
0
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hello,what size of magnets for the duct?
0
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Replying to @sergiorlg2 :
He said to use the original magnet size. (4x2 & 2x2)
(Edited)
1
Reply
Print Profile
0.2mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer, 4 walls, 10% infill
Had to use a brim, but other than that it was an easy print. Now I'm just waiting for the magnets I ordered.
The designer has replied
2
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the print certainly looks good ;)
0
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I want to like this and I really do except for a small part. The small pins that help hold the fan duct to the toolhead cover break too easily. If they were designed as a solid part with smaller protrusions, it would be a lot stronger and actually do something. As it is, I broke both sets of clips and one of the parts. This fan duct design itself is excellent but this thing is not really designed to be FDM printed. I'm going to try and fix these small issues using the STL but I'd like the designer to address the problem.
7
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I printed this in clear ABS-like resin on my Mars 4 Max, and it came out amazing!
The designer has replied
0
Reply
realy crazy 👍😃
1
Reply
Print Profile
0.2mm nozzle, 0.1mm layer, 4 walls, 10% infill
Print came out great with the 0.2mm nozzle and so far no issues with any prints. Can’t really tell if cooling is any better but it’s definitely not worse so that’s a win in my book. Thanks for all the time put in and sharing!
The designer has replied
0
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👍
0
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License

This user content is licensed under a Standard Digital File License.

You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.