Breeze Model X [SUB250 FPV Flying Wings] RC plane

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Breeze Model X [SUB250 FPV Flying Wings] RC plane

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X1 Carbon
P1S
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X1
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A1 mini

[STANDARD] Body Parts
[STANDARD] Body Parts
Designer
8.3 h
6 plates
4.6(48)

[STANDARD A1MINI] Body Parts (See desc)
[STANDARD A1MINI] Body Parts (See desc)
Designer
14 h
8 plates
4.5(11)

[STANDARD] Accessories
[STANDARD] Accessories
Designer
9.7 h
3 plates
4.9(28)

[UPGRADE] Motor Mount Options
[UPGRADE] Motor Mount Options
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2.7 h
4 plates
5.0(10)
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Description

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----------------------------

Intro

The Breeze Model X is the latest addition to the "Breeze" series of RC planes.

 

  • Customizable upgrades
  • Lightweight yet strong
  • Modular design
  • SUB250 compliant
  • Few parts to assemble
  • Completely FREE to download

 

License:

Breeze Model X is available for free download and non-commercial use only when downloaded exclusively from MakerWorld.com. Please contact me for authorization if you wish to use it beyond the Standard Digital File License.

 

As I will continuously enhance this model base on your feedback, please revisit here for updates.

 

The Breeze Model X is a SUB250 modular flying wing, designed to weigh less than 250g, allowing for easy compliance with aviation regulations in many countries. This design means you can enjoy flying in most regions without the need for a remote identification tag. However, it's important to verify your local laws and ensure you fly in safe, unpopulated areas since it can go very fast.

 

It flys notable responsiveness, offering a firm yet reactive feel, which suits aerobatic maneuvers. It can rolls and loops easily.

Additionally, it features an efficient wingfoil, achieving a tested glide ratio close to 12 (which means it descends 1 meter for every 12 meters it glides).

 

Flying characteristics:

In my fly test.

Wing Span: 560mm (incl. winglets)

RTF weight: ~250g

Battery: 3S 1300mAh

Motor: 1406 3300kv

Prop: Gemfan 3inch 3052 (high pitch blades for speed)

Glide Ratio: ~12:1 @ 12m/s

Stall speed: 7.5m/s or 27km/h

Cruise Speed: 15m/s or 54km/h

Top speed: 30m/s or 108km/h

Cruise throttle: 50%

Cruise Time: 45min

Thurst to weight ratio: 0.9

 

Print Time: ~10 Hours vase mode PLA-Aero or LW-PLA

 

--

Note : Per user feedbacks, if you want to print with non-foaming materials such as PETG, you will need a 3S 18650 pack to get the COG right (normal lipo is too thick for the fuselage and the canopy wont fit). Prepare for heavier wing-load (stall speed will be increased massively)

 

This extended nose parts allows you to fit smaller battery 

while still making COG right. Thanks to the author

https://makerworld.com/en/models/465958#profileId-374847

 

 

 

 

BOM besides printable parts and Fly Controller

  • 5 x 300mm Carbon Tube x 1
  • EMAX 9g servo x 2
  • Push rod 1mm to 1.2mm diameter, at least 11cm length x 2
  • M3 5mm Nylon screw x 3 (Optional)
  • M3 thread insert x 3 (Optional)

 

Recommended Filaments

Bambu Lab ASA-Aero: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/asa-aero

Bambu Lab PLA-Aero: https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/pla-aero

 

Tuning before mainden

  • Mixer setting:

Pitch 60% Roll 30% – this is critical, because this plane has large control surface, and roll is too sensitive.

 

  • INAV PID setting (under testing):

I am still finding a good PID, will update you here. Mean while, please reduce roll PIDFF rate which the default values are really unstable.

Old setting 2024/04/13:

  • pitch rate: 150 deg/sec
  • roll rate: 310 deg/sec
  • Lower all Roll PID by half. Set roll FF to 60.
  • Lower all Pitch PID by 25%. Set pitch FF to 80.
  • (Important) Enable advance PID and lower “level strength” to 8.

Current suggestion 2024/05/03:

# Mixer: servo mixer
smix reset

smix 0 1 0 -30 0 -1
smix 1 1 1 -60 0 -1
smix 2 2 0 -30 0 -1
smix 3 2 1 60 0 -1

# PID and rate setting
set fw_p_pitch = 10
set fw_i_pitch = 10
set fw_d_pitch = 5
set fw_ff_pitch = 70
set fw_p_roll = 8
set fw_i_roll = 5
set fw_d_roll = 5
set fw_ff_roll = 51
set fw_p_level = 10
set roll_rate = 30
set pitch_rate = 17

# save configuration
save
 

 

 

 

Please give suggestion if you have better turning.

Once it is stable, I will export the setting cmd, and you could apply it in one go.

 

 

 

/*-----------------------------------------*/

 

Design Principle

 

Alternative source (Chinese via bilibili):

 

 

3D printed RC planes often seem stiff and easy to break, getting damaged from small crashes that foam planes usually handle well. To fix this in my design, I focused on two main ideas:

  • Lightweight and Strong – be SUB250 and resistance to small crash.
  • Modular design – easy to swap broken modules and customized options.

Also, foaming filaments (like PLA-Aero, ASA-Aero, LW-PLA, etc.) usually have issues with strings in normal printing. But, a special printing way called spiral vase mode can solve this by drawing the shape's outline all at once without stopping. This needs a special design trick to make sure every layer can be drawn in one go, with each layer sitting right on top of the last one. This lets Bambu Studio make a continuous printing line, avoiding any stops and moves.

 

The design was tricky, but don’t worry about it. I did the hard work, and you can just print with the profiles I shared.

 

NOTE: DO NOT rearrange the foaming parts, they need to be print one each plate with set spiral-vase mode.

 

This flying wing has only 6 parts (3 big and 3 small), which have to be printed one by one in vase mode with foaming filaments. The other parts can be printed all together on one plate with regular filament.

 

There are way fewer foaming parts than other RC planes you might see for sale. And printing this whole plane takes only about 10 hours, which is a lot less time than others that take 50+ hours.

 

Lightweight and strong


You might see some red parts in the pictures. Most of these aren't made from foaming material; they're actually for making the plane stronger. While the foaming parts cover a lot of the area and add to the weight, these regular material parts make it much tougher in important spots like where the motor is, the front edge of the wing, the nose, the bottom, and parts that let you swap things easily.

 

These red parts help the wing handle normal landings and minor crashes without getting damaged.

 

The weight ratio between foaming material and regular material is about 4:1.

 

Modular and easy to assembly

Even with its lightweight and strong design, the plane can still crash badly. When a crash happens, a typical 3D-printed plane has little chance to survive. But with this design, wings or broken parts can be easily swapped out thanks to the quick-swap connectors, a feature from the start.

 

One of my goals was to make repairs possible right at the flying site. The solution? Make everything changeable.

 

Yes, even wings of this small size have a quick-release system that allows for disassembly in no time, all without a single screw.

I always have a set of wings and a body ready to replace any broken parts. During my flight controller tuning and plane optimization, I used up one plane on average each time. However, this wing design does a great job protecting the electronics; I've never lost a servo or any electronic part.

 

The assembly of each module is as simple and straightforward as possible. I really enjoy the building process, and I think you will too.

Assembling a complete plane takes less than 30 minutes once you're familiar with it. And you shouldn't need to tune your new plane much, because 3D-printed RC planes always have accurate dimensions.

 

 

/*-----------------------------------------*/

 

Assembly Guide

 

Check out the amazing assembly video by McLogo76

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Video Assembly Guide

video: To be uploaded

 

 

/*-----------------------------------------*/

Customized your planes

I've designed many options to enhance the capabilities of these small wings. Some are aimed at improving flying characteristics, while others boost functionality, like FPV (First-Person View) capabilities. Please see below for the different options available.

 

Winglet options

The Lite version, as the default option, is small and lighter, designed to meet the SUB250g regulations. This makes it perfect for those who want a compact and efficient flyer. On the other hand, the Large version offers more lift and better yaw stability, making it suitable for those who prefer a plane that can handle more varied flying conditions. More info please checkout this amazing explain video:

 

FPV cap options

The default is the flat top, you may mount your DIY camera on it. Besides, I've also created 2 options to make your FPV setup easier:

  • A 19-20mm top mount with a camera canopy. Print the camera mount with regular filament and glue it on top.
  • A mounting frame for a special O3 camera module taken from BetaFPV Pavo 20 O3 module, can be purchased from their website. It's the most affordable and lightest O3 frame I've found, and it even includes dampers for stabilization. This setup works great, and I highly recommend it.

 

Motor mount options

The default motor mount fits 1304 to 150x motors, which are plenty for this small plane. You can try other motors, but remember, larger motors are heavier. You'll likely need to adjust the canopy to fit larger batteries and keep the center of gravity (COG) correct.

By the way, the EDF didn't hit the advertised 200g thrust, only reaching 140g. However, it's still flyable and looks very cool.

Sled options

The spring-loaded sled is for hard surfaces like rocky roads and off-road terrain. Hard surfaces can easily damage foaming parts, so a spring can effectively absorb the vibration and impact, thus protecting the body.

 

For soft surfaces, like grass fields, a hard sled is sufficient.

Nose options

If you prefer not to mount the camera on top, you can use the camera nose instead of the standard one. It also accommodates a 20mm camera frame for an FPV camera. However, placing the camera at the very front of the wing is quite risky.

 

 

/*-----------------------------------------*/

More Vids

BetaFPV Pavo 20 O3 modual on Breeze MX test video.

 

FPV vid by McLogo76 and his friends!

 

/*-----------------------------------------*/

Tips

  • Rotate your flight controller by 90degree to save some space for battery.
  • Use fast servos, this is a agile wing.
  • Get the COG right,
  • Don't tilt the ailerons up like you might on other wings. This wingfoil already includes that effect, and the twist-wing design also contributes to pitch stabilization.

 

Bill of Materials

Maker’s Supply Kits and Parts
Buy Now
Download BOM

Comment & Rating (257)

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Boosted
Simply Awesome, we had a blast today! They all flew very well!
The designer has replied
3
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Awesome!
1
Reply
Was an awesome flying session. Very well designed wings! 🙏👍
2
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Replying to @user_615572832 :
Do you, or anyone else reading this, have a list of entry level electronics that I could get? This way I know what I could buy and upgrade to later. Thank you in advance! 🙂
1
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really impressive work. I realize I put the leading edge piece on wrong but too late now lol as soon as the 1406 3600kv motor arrives I’ll add fpv at the correct cg and give her a rip
4
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give her a rip... you're canadian
2
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where are the connectors for the wings and flaps located
Show original
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Boosted
hey I can not find any 1406 3600kv motor, which model did you find?
0
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Print Profile
[STANDARD] Accessories
Excelent project. Printed it from PETG. Used a HAKRC wing flight controller with an old 30A Armattan ESC and a VCI 1405 4550kv motor, the recomanded Emax servos, TBS Crossfire for receiver, Runcam nano camera and a TBS HV VTX for video transmission. Put together a 3s 18650 3000mAh pack. everything fitted without any issues. Cant wait to try it out
0
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how did it end up flying
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Boosted
Replying to @user_1358206958 :
Haven’t flown it yet since it’s -10°C outside 🥶. Also, since this is my first wing ever, I’m practicing on a simulator to give myself a better chance of not breaking it into pieces on the very first flight 🤣.
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Replying to @Keresztes :
how did you put it together? the battery pack
(Edited)
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This is a well thought through excellent model! Thanks a lot @majianjia We succesfully flew 3 Breeze X last weekend with Walksnail builds. A few notes that may help others - if you use the standard 12x12 motor mount you need to screw the motor first onto the mount before gluing it into the model. The screws are not accessible anymore after gluing it. - if you copy the suggested settings you need to know that the weight is not set to INAV standard for wings (which will reverse 2 of your surfaces) This is the setting with the weight set with the standard weight/direction and 30 roll / 60 pitch: # Mixer: servo mixer smix reset smix 0 1 0 30 0 -1 smix 1 1 1 60 0 -1 smix 2 2 0 -30 0 -1 smix 3 2 1 60 0 -1 Our builds ranging from 1406 3800 kv to 1504.5 3950 kv with 3s 1300 packs came in around 350g with all the fpv gear. There is plenty of thrust with 3.5" 2.5 pitch 3 blade props any you can basically cruise on 25% throttle. Just make sure to use lipo packs that are not higher than 21mm or you will have issues closing the lid - Velcro or Ummagrip lite also needs 1.5 - 2mm and works well to hold the battery in place.
The designer has replied
1
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wow, so nicely build. Your comments are really driving me to make now RC.
1
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Replying to @majianjia :
Thanks a lot! How does it actually fly with the larger winglets? I'm thinking about building a 2nd one with the large winglets.
0
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Replying to @user_615572832 :
Can I put your video in the page? It is really excited to see your fpv vid.
2
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Printed a vase using ASA Aero filament, and there are large gaps at the wingtip edges. How can I improve it?
The designer has replied
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1
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This angle is too large, there is no way to fix it...
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0
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Replying to @majianjia :
Set variable layer height. This reduces this phenomenon.
3
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how do you do this on the app on phone or do you have to be on a computer for it?
1
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PETG print, a single 1103 motor removed from a Pavo20 paired with a 2.5-inch propeller, 150g thrust, 300g takeoff weight, it actually flew 😄 Unfortunately, I didn't control the turning radius well during flight 😭 I directly drilled the holes in the slicer software. I hope the author can add the commonly used 9mm mounting holes for small motors to both the single and dual motor mounts, allowing for a wider range of motor choices
The designer has replied
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0
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Is this plane… hanging from the building?
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0
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Replying to @majianjia :
It crashed into a furniture billboard next to a large open space, landing on the roof😂 Not high up, I’ll knock it down with my drone
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Replying to @user_210264018 :
666
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Very nice model already prindet on a1 mini. glad to see model that can be printed on small printer. I am curios what electronic did zou use for that plane? I'm going back to planes and have to gradually buy everything again. I see you used 9g emax servos and 1406 3300kv whats the rest or are there any reconemndations? Thanks for answer. Printed with bambu grey aero PLA and red polyterra pla.
2
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where are the parts for mounting the wings and flap?
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This thing rips! printed one from LW-PLA, and the other from PAHT-CF (beefy!). the latter is way sturdier, but not much more weight. will be adding some FOV gear soon.
2
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where are the wing connectors located?
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0
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this will not print the standard accessory plate and I can’t figure out how to get the edge parts that fail every time moved to the middle where they will stick any advice?
The designer has replied
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1. clean the PEI sheet, add glue to where those failed. Or 2. remove them from the corner and print them in a separate plate. Or 3. add brims to those parts that failed. I also had a bad time on my  worn out PEI sheet. I see you didnt print the body and wings with foaming materials. You will need a larger battery to make the COG right.
(Edited)
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thank you!!!
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where are the wing and flap connectors located
Show original
0
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Hi @majianjia .... first let me tell you awesome job with this wing, I'm trying to print it but I'm having a problem in orca slicer, as you can see in the picture after I sliced the fuselage I got that white lines that are like missing layers, any ideas or advice on how to solve it, the same problem is present in cura too
The designer has replied
1
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Try 0.4 linewidth. Or compare it with bambu studio to see what setting was messed up in orca.
0
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You shall not share, sub-license, sell, rent, host, transfer, or distribute in any way the digital or 3D printed versions of this object, nor any other derivative work of this object in its digital or physical format (including - but not limited to - remixes of this object, and hosting on other digital platforms). The objects may not be used without permission in any way whatsoever in which you charge money, or collect fees.