I set out to design the simplest and versatile organization system that I could use everywhere. And I couldn't be happier with the final design!

The small brackets are designed to be used with hardboard for the dividers. The brackets can be easily printed and and are a perfect fit for the thickness of hardboard. Because the dividers don't need to be printed, this is likely the fastest possible solution for making custom dividers.

Hardboard is cheap (you can usually get it half off at the big box stores if you can find a slightly damaged sheet) and very easy to work with and cut. If you have another material instead of hardboard, you may need to scale the brackets appropriately. They fit perfectly on 1/8" hardboard which is .1125 in or 2.85mm. I will also do my best to design brackets for other materials if requested! Just leave a comment.

Model

There are 6 bracket types: T, corner, end cap, cross, hex, and hex corner. For each bracket type, there is a model with and without teeth. The teeth “bite” into the hardboard which keeps the brackets from sliding and can help the dividers hold their shape.

Each bracket is ~1 gram meaning these are a perfect use of the extra bits of filament you have laying around.

Edit: I have added two models for dividers if you would rather print them than use hardboard. One model is 1cm by 1cm and the other is 1in by 1 in. These can be scaled in the X and Y direction to get a divider of any size. 

The thickness has been tested to be a perfect fit whether the print is printed laying down or standing up. When scaling, make sure to uncheck uniform scale. If you needed a divider that was 8 inches by 2.75 inches, you would simply scale the X to 800 and then Y to 275. Make sure not to scale the Z direction. 

Profiles

There is only 1 profile and it has every bracket on it. They are arranged with the brackets without teeth towards the front of the build plate and the brackets with teeth towards the back. You can get rid of any brackets you don't need and copy the ones you do as many times as you want.

Edit: I have added profiles for walls, one in inches and one in cm. They can be scaled to any size and printed either laying down or standing up.

Tips for Desinging and Building

When designing, it can be helpful to draw out a rough idea of what you think you want the dividers to look like. Once you have a basic idea, it should be clear how many brackets you will need. You will need 2 brackets per joint, one for the top and one for the bottom.

The next step for is to decide how tall you want your dividers to be. If your spaces are thinner, you may want shorter dividers which will make it easier to grab things. My kitchen and bathroom drawers have shorter dividers, while my dresser dividers are the full height of the drawers. You can always cut them down shorter if you need.

When cutting the hardboard, It is easiest to cut long strips, and then cut the strips into the individual divider pieces that you need. If you need 4" tall dividers, cut a long 4" strip. Then just cut each divider from the strip. Always start with your longest piece(s) and then you can use those to figure out how long to make the shorter pieces. It helps to have the drawer close by if possible to avoid having to go back and forth between the drawer and the workshop after every cut.

Hardboard can be cut easily with practically any kind of saw. Its easiest to mark a line with a ruler and do your best to follow it. This usually leaves a bit of a rough edge though so you will want to finish it. If you have a hand plane, that is by far the easiest way to straighten and finish the edges, but you can also use sandpaper or even run outside and and “sand” It on the sidewalk.

Depending on the layout of your dividers, They may not be very rigid and may get pushed apart. This can be fixed by creating a border around the whole drawer and using the T brackets with teeth to anchor all of the loose ends which will make the dividers much more rigid.