The Crater wallet is a slim profile, front or back carry wallet that is majority 3D printed. The inspiration for the wallet came from the well-known Ridge wallet, but I could never stomach the price for the real thing. So, I made this instead.

The plates can be printed, machined, whatever. I've included both STL and F3* (Fusion360) models to make it easier to work with. The assembly is extremely straight forward and requires minimal extra hardware. The following parts will be needed aside from the 3D printed plates:

- M2x3mm self-tapping screw, you can use 4mm but you'll need to shave them down a tiny bit (x12)

- 1" or 25mm wide elastic strap or whatever you want just make sure it's stretchy (6.5"/165mm length)
- Adhesive of your choice, just needs to be strong (I'm a sucker for JB Weld products and in this case Plastic Weld)

After printing the plates and gathering up your hardware, assembly is as simple as gluing and screwing.

Glue one end of the strap to one of your base plates. The strap needs to be as close to center as possible. There is a little room to play with, so it doesn't need to be perfect. Let the glue dry at least a few hours, preferably as long as your adhesive suggests.

Once dry, you'll need to take your other base plate (without a glued-on strap) and attach it's faceplate using the self-tapping screws. Don't worry about the strap being in there right now. The plate assemblies are made to have the strap slide in and out. Once assembled, slide the strap through the opening in the side of your new assembly.

After you have the strap threaded through one of the plate assemblies, you will need to glue the remaining open end of the strap to the first base plate, completing the loop. I like to use a clamp for both gluing steps, but would highly recommend at least using a clamp for this part as the tension from the final assembly will pull the strap out of position.

Give the glue another few hours to dry before screwing the remaining faceplate onto its base, and then you're good to go.

A note on attaching the strap:

- I've played with using M2x3mm screws to attach it and that proved to work well. You'll need to really get those suckers screwed in to keep the faceplates flush during final assembly. I usually do 2-3 screws per strap-end.