Topwater Popper Lure

Topwater Popper Lure

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Print Profile(3)

All
A1 mini
P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

Smaller 10cm version. 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 40% infill
Smaller 10cm version. 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 40% infill
Designer
56 min
1 plate
4.8(13)

Large 13cm long, 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 50% infill
Large 13cm long, 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 50% infill
Designer
1.4 h
1 plate
4.0(2)

Large 13cm. No supports.
Large 13cm. No supports.
Designer
1.7 h
1 plate

Open in Bambu Studio
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Released

Description

Popper fishing lure.
Splishes and splashes on the surface when fished as a popper, but on a steady retrieve it'll dive and swim just under the surface like a plug.

The lure is 13cm long, but can be rescaled according to your needs.
The model is printed with 50% infill. It included a large air chamber to aid in floating and orientation.




If you modify the support settings, be sure to use ‘on build plate only’ or add an exclusion area so the air chamber is printed without supports.

The eye hook screws I used are 16x7.5mm [ https://a.co/d/cw17O1R ]

Pilot holes to help position eyehooks are provided, but might need to be enlarged to work with your hardware.

If you want to balance the lure differently I recommend moving the position of the middle hook forward or backwards accordingly.


General 3d Printing Tips

  • Make sure your printing plate is clean! Oils from your skin will cause adhesion issues for your prints. Regularly wash your print plate with a detergent like Dawn and avoid touching the surface when removing prints from the bed.
  • If it's an option on your printer, always opt to level the bed before each print. If you have to perform this manually, make sure you do this after every few prints. It takes a bit of time and patience, but it's a fair trade for reliable prints.
  • Ensure bed and nozzle temperatures are within the expected range for the material you are printing. Temperatures that are too high or too low will affect the print negatively by causing warping, malformed layers or adhesion issues.
  • Reduce your printing speed. Slower print speed is especially important for overhangs because it gives the material more time to cool as it's deposited.
     

Comment & Rating (30)

Please fill in your opinion
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which modeling software did you use?
The designer has replied
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For this one I used blender. Started from a cube, added subdivision surface modifier and shaped it. The cutout in the front and the air chamber are boolean subtractions of spheres.
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Replying to @cfactor :
appreciate the response. most of my experience is with inventor but I'm not paying those prices for my pleasure. does blender or any other softwares you're aware of share any similarities to inventor?
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Replying to @Bwadis :
You might like Fusion 360. It's a sketch-based CAD program and has a free non-commercial license. I use that as well sometimes depending on what I'm modeling. Some people also like Onshape, although I have personally not used it, so I have no direct experience. Blender is much more oriented towards visual arts. I think it makes it easier to model characters or organic shapes, but it doesn't naturally aim to exact measurements or parts relationships like CAD software does.
(Edited)
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Print Profile
Smaller 10cm version. 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 40% infill
The designer has replied
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Thank you for taking the time to rate it!
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what eye let’s did you use
The designer has replied
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0
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Print Profile
Smaller 10cm version. 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 40% infill
1
Reply
Print Profile
Smaller 10cm version. 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 40% infill
1
Reply
Print Profile
Smaller 10cm version. 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 40% infill
1
Reply
Print Profile
Smaller 10cm version. 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 40% infill
1
Reply
Print Profile
Smaller 10cm version. 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 40% infill
1
Reply
Print Profile
Smaller 10cm version. 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 40% infill
1
Reply
Print Profile
Smaller 10cm version. 0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 40% infill
1
Reply