Court of the Vampire Queen Illya'Dra

I am just a Hobbyist. I 3D print organic models for fun. Started with a Bambu Lab A1 Mini about 3 years ago and just have not looked back. Many of the models I created initially relied on AI generative assistance. I would then go to blender to work on them while I was learning. I am by no means a seasoned veteran of Blender but I have been able to remove AI from almost all of my workflow process. All Models from me are test printed multiple times with different filament. I try not to use the meta or most expensive filament for test prints. All photos from me will be as is, No Paint, No Primer, just removed supports and took the pics. If there is excessive wispy stringing, I may hit it with a heat gun to clean that up, but everything is photographed as it comes off the printer. Because of this you may see scratches, some stringing, etc. These can all be cleaned up in post processing but I want you as the people printing it to see what exactly to expect coming off your printer. As I stated earlier, my hobby started with 3D printing. My print profiles are very clean. Consider using the .2mm Nozzle profiles for other models you may want to print in the future.

For additional examples of prints I have done (not my models) see Odd_Zone5925 on Reddit. I have printed everything under the sun; from funtional parts in a mechanical setting to DnD minis and dragons, masks, signs, Hueforges, furniture and decorations, etc. across many forms of filament. If there is a way, I print it. I really love the hobby and just want to toss a few things out to the community that I made myself. Cheers to everyone!
 

The Court of the Vampire Queen Illya'Dra, Former Matron of House 'Dra
 

All models in this series are set in a .2mm Nozzle Profile. These are long prints. To ensure success:

• Clean the build plate before you start the print. A clean build plate is essential before starting a long print. Nothing worse than a support coming off the plate ¾ of the way through.
• The supports are designed to be thin and easy to remove. With that stated, some of the points of connection are on or around small details. They will come away cleanly, just go slow and use the proper tool. Flusher Cutter, Razor, etc. The models are designed and positioned for success, so be patient when removing the supports particularly around the Axe, the Sword, and the Cane.
• If you have not tried my print profile, just use it. It is a high detail, slowed, increased wall and thinned out support profile designed to work well with these models. I post many .4mm profiles models on makerworld as people tend to like the speed over the detail but for home use I print every model in this .2mm profile. For an example see the .2mm Profile Beholder in my models. It takes longer, but it is worth it. The Beholder shown here is cleaned up and thats it. No primer and no paint.

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• For the Vampire with the sword, there is a point on the base with a very tiny hole that the tip of the sword will slip into. If you do not line it up with the hole in the base, the sword point will actually be a fraction of a mm longer than his legs and make it challenging to glue him to the base.
• For the most part the bases are interchangable, but slightly different per model. If you see one you like more than the rest, resize it to the correct size and print it again. The bases are quick and use very little filament. So use what you like.
• The Queen is a much larger size model. I did this because I like it. That doesn't mean you need to love it. Resize any or all of these to fit your needs. They are scaled to work with a 32mm TTRPG of your choice, with the Queen being much large and daunting. The others hover right near there, give or take a few mm.
• if you run into any issues printing these, let me know! I have printed each of them two times. Once for my personal use and once as a followup test print. That doesn't mean all machines and filament are the same. I printed these using Sunlu HS PLA+ 2.0, which is currently a bit of a meta filament in the FDM miniature community as it prints with clean, high detail and cleans up easily. I have also taken the steps to calibrate that filament on my machine. If you find issues during your print, leave a comment and I wil see what I can do to address the comments and help.
• Aside from some stringing my filament is very dialed in. The stringing i have intentionally left in the pictures so that you can see what it looks like before being cleaned up and primed or painted or whatever else people do to these things to make them seem impossibly clean. These are thinner models with higher level, smaller details. IMO that leads to higher stringing when using a .2 on HS filament even when dried, dialed in retraction and calibrated. So my pictures of the printed models can and will look better after clean up and paint.

I have a terrain build that I created spefically to with this Vampire Encounter, my first larger terrain piece. Here is what it looks like but I still on the fence about releasing it. It takes about 1kg of filament to print the entire thing, it has verticality to it as it is supposed to be a fallen temple that has begun to sink into an ever expanding swamp lands. Many might not like the verticality of it as it gently slopes. I have a couryard and a few other areas that would fill an entire table. But they are unique pieces that probably don't see much play, take a ton of filament even on 4% infill, and take up a great deal of space when not in use. I don't know that I want to go down this road. I will let people see it though to help me decide if it's worth releasing or not. I have several projects like this I created over the last couple years that are original and specific to the story I was running at the time. I just don't know how well they fit into anyone elses worlds.
 

Anyway, happy printing all!


***UPDATE NOTE***
I will be adding some .4mm nozzle profiles for the model that I can. If they are just going to fail on people at .4 I won't put the profile up. There are some thin points that will prove challenging in .4

Just want to end on one note. The models that you find here are set in very specific print profile settings. These are incredibly clean print profiles designed to do well with the models being shown. You are more than welcome to use these print profiles to print other models.

To use a print profile on another model of your choice:

• Open the 3mf that you want to use.
• add a plate, and open a new model as geometry only on the new plate. It will automatically apply the same settings from the project to that model. 
• Slice the model to ensure there are no conflicts or non-manifold errors.
• Print!
• You can also save these settings in your user presets to use in the future without the hoops.