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Drybox / Spoolholder

GIF

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P2S
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0.16mm, PLA + PETG, optimized for single plate
0.16mm, PLA + PETG, optimized for single plate
Designer
6.7 h
1 plate
5.0(1)

Multiple parts with optimized settings
Multiple parts with optimized settings
Designer
15.5 h
2 plates

Open in Bambu Studio
Boost
8
42
1
1
12
3
Released 

Description

Printed with Bambu Lab PLA Basic @ 0,4mm nozzle.

To print this model with the settings I used, you must have PETG inside your AMS to use for support interface. (Clear PETG is recommended)

 

This drybox should fit all AMS-size spools, 

Allowed dimensions:

Maximum outer diameter spool: 208mm (to fit inside container)

Minimum internal width between the flanges: 55mm

Maximum outer width: 78mm. (safe) → up to 93mm but with risk of falling off

Parts list:

  • 1x Brabantia Tasty+ container 5,4L (229985)
  • 1x Hygrometer Sprifityy (744915819394)
  • 4x Bearing 608ZZ
  • 1x PC4-M10 Pneumatic connector 
  •  ~300 gr. Silica gel drying beads (20cm height inside container)
  • Some PFTE tubing

Additional information

This spool holder can be used standalone without a container, in that case I recommend adding some rubber buttons underneath.

This setup will get the humidity inside the box to 10%, provided the silica gel has enough capacity.

Will probably work with a 0,6mm and 0,8mm nozzle, though I haven't tested it.

I chose the Brabantia container because it is far more clear than some alternatives, this allows for a very pretty filament container. 

I tried using two bearings per support but that created too much friction and so the wheel would get stuck on the tiniest bump.

It would actually be better to use a material that offers a little bit more grip for the wheels, but that's an afterthought.

For faster printing: change the layer height of the grid mesh of “bodemroosterv2” to 0,24mm (or maybe even higher?)

I don't recommend changing the layer height of the bearing-shaft to a larger value.

What you still need to do after printing: 

  • Drill a hole in the lid of the container and fix the pneumatic connector to it. (Air tight!)  
    • The hole should be off center, At about 5 cm from the edge for minimal friction of the filament during use.
    • I used hot glue, but most all-purpose glues should do the trick.
    • It might even be possible to tap a thread into the lid (let me know)
  • Fill up with silica (20cm), assemble the frame and load it up with a spool and PTFE tube.
  • You're all set!

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