About

The vertical mount supports nose-up or nose-down.

The horizontal mount supports nose-left or nose-right.

The reason I made this model was to address my needs that I didn't find in other mounting solutions (and this is probably overkill, but…):

1. Proper layer orientation. Some other models have the sheer force of the car in parallel with the layers (or you need lots of supports when printing in a stronger orientation). Typically, layer separation is the weakest and most likely failure mode of a print. Given the weight, failure is unlikely, but I don't like chance. This model allows for easily printing the layers perpendicular to the sheer force for high strength.
2. Perfectly plumb. The curved mounting hole allows up to 2.5* of rotation in both directions for setting the mount plumb if the hardware used isn't perfectly plumb on the wall. There is at least one long edge on each model that will serve as a stable reference surface for a level.
3. Higher strength. Subjectively, there was not enough material on other models in the section that interfaces with the car to minimize sag or failure over time. I wanted to maximize filament in that section of the model, carving out only in non-loaded areas in order to save some filament.
4. Floating. Other models do not prop the entire body off the wall and the car is only supported at the hanging point. It then rotates about the mount; two of the wheels are floating and two are in contact, or the suspension is loaded to make contact on all four. These mounts stretch across the chassis to make it parallel to the wall for a premium look. When used with the optional spacer, the suspension will be unloaded and the car floats off the wall entirely.
5. Printable. I don't like supports, so these are designed to be printed without them.

Instructions

1. Select a mounting orientation - horizontal or vertical. Print the part that interfaces with the car on its side! This is critical to maximizing strength. The STL should already be in the correct orientation. The models were designed to be printed without supports and the bridging distance is minimal. Don't use less than 20% infill and two perimeters. Four perimeters will be very strong.
2. If you want the car to float off the wall with an unloaded suspension, print the corresponding spacer and do so on its back. Again, it should already be in the correct orientation. Use standard print settings for this part.
3. Use the appropriate mounting hardware to secure it to your mounting location. The holes are sized for a #6 or #8 flat head screw with a 41* head angle, but various hardware can be used. Install the fixed (top) screw first and tighten to where the mount contacts the surface but still freely moves. Mark, then install the adjustable (bottom) screw the same way. Plumb the mount and tighten the adjustable screw to final torque, followed by the fixed screw.
4. The car interfaces to the mount with the underside, center section that is slightly rectangular.