Many mice in the Logitech G-series support contactless charging though the conductive magnets that hold the little puck to the mouse. This contraption allows you to put the mouse on a stand when you are not using it, and charge it without needing to plug in a USB cable.

Commercial versions of this are available in retail for around €120, but I didn't want to buy anything 🤓

Prerequisites

Compatible mice

• G 403
• G 502
• G 703
• G Pro Wireless
• G 903
• G 502 HERO
• G 703 HERO
• G 903 HERO
• G PRO X superlight

Tools and hardware

• Soldering equipment
  • Soldering iron (I use a Pinecil)
  • Wire strippers
  • Flux and tin
  • Recommended: Multimeter
• Spare USB cable
• 4x 5mmØ, 1.75mm tall magnets for the puck. Verify the magnets are electrically conductive.
• Either (both these stands will adhere magnetically - assembly method differs):
  • For the stand with magnets: 2x 5mmØ x 1.75mm magnets
  • For the stand with screws: 2x ferromagnetic (iron or steel) M4x20 screws (M4x15 or M4x25 may also work)

Print instructions

First choose if you want to assembly the version with the magnets or not. The version with the magnets is more difficult to assemble due to needing superglue, but you can never accidentally mount the mouse in the reverse order (though supposedly a diode would protect the mouse). Both versions functionally work fine though. You won't need supports - just print it face down at 0.12mm layer height.

Then, choose how you want to attach the stand to your desk. You can either have it stand freely, or attach it to the desk (assuming 20mm of height).

You can print in multicolor if you wish. On MMU/AMS printers you can print in multicolor. On single color printers, do a filament change once the “G” logo has finished printing.

Always print the puck.

Tolerances: I printed this on the Bambu Lab X1C. If you have trouble with tolerances, use a plastic scraping tool,. sandpaper, or use the holes feature in SuperSlicer to increase the size of the holes. If your printer is capable of 0.2mm tolerance it should be fine though.

Assembly instructions

The mouse and the puck

1. Put the magnets in the puck. Note that the magnets must be correctly oriented so they don't repel the magnets in the mouse.
2. Put the puck in the mouse. It will not be entirely level with the bottom of the mouse and be a bit inset, but that is expected (I didn't have magnets that would allow this).

Charging stand

• Assemble according to the instructions below
• Press in the attachment in from below, make sure it clamps the cable securely

Prepare the USB cable

1. Cut the end of the USB cable.
2. Use wire strippers and strip the end of the cable.
3. Cut away the green and white wire.
4. Strip away the ends of the red (plus) and black (ground/minus) cable.

Magnet version

1. Superglue the magnets in the charging stand. Make sure they are a little bit higher so they can make contact with the magnets of the mouse. Also make sure that the orientation is right according to the bottom of the mouse.
2. Solder the USB wires to the magnets, or to metal rods which you attach to the magnets. The plus and minus side are marked inside the model.

Screw version

1. Screw in the M4x20 screws from the top of the charging stand. Don't screw them in fully, make sure they can make contact with the mouse.
2. Solder the USB wires to the screws. Make sure to use plenty of flux. The plus and minus side are marked inside the model.

Verification

Using a multimeter verify that the stand outputs 5V, with the plus terminal being on the right. Note how the internals of the mouse are: