GPX Ultralight - Logitech G Pro X Superlight Mod

Overview:

This is a 27-gram ultra-lightweight mouse shell compatible with the Logitech G Pro X Superlight PCB. The idea for this originally came from Optimum's Zeromouse. My design, however, focuses on maintaining minimal weight without sacrificing side buttons. 

Key Features:

• Integrated side buttons for improved usability
• Optimized standoff placement for weight reduction and rigidity
• Fingertip ergonomic profile

Bill of Materials:

• Logitech G Pro X Superlight
• Tiger Ice V2 dot skates
• Micro USB Cable
• Custom hot-swap switch PCB (Optional)
• Huano Transparent White Dot Switches (Optional)
• TTC Gold Encoder (Optional)

Components:

• Mouse Body.stl: Main shell of the mouse, designed for structural balance between flex and strength.
• Scroll Wheel.stl: Light-weight scroll wheel, designed for optimizing weight savings. (Optional)
• Side Switch Holder.stl: Houses the side switches precisely. Original model based on u/abazibiz’s design.
• Side Buttons.stl: Side buttons modeled from u/abazibiz’s geometry with minor tweaks.
• Main Switch Stand.stl: Primary click switch mount, adapted from u/abazibiz’s design for alignment with Logitech internals.

Acknowledgment:
Core inspiration and mechanical foundation for the switch holder, side buttons, and switch stand come from u/abazibiz on Reddit, who has contributed heavily to the 3D mouse modding community. My work builds upon these parts, integrating them into a unified and weight-optimized body.

Printing Recommendations

SLA Printing (Highly Recommended):
If you have access to an SLA resin printer, use it for maximum detail and surface consistency.

• Orientation: Print the shell at a 45° angle relative to the build plate.
• Supports: Light to medium density, touching build plate only.
• Layer height: 0.050 mm or lower (can be higher, but layer lines will show more).
• Material: Tough or ABS-like resin preferred, such as Elegoo ABS-like.

Pros: Superior finish, stronger interlayer adhesion, less post-processing.
Cons: Longer print time, requires messier post-processing (wash and cure).

FDM Printing (Alternative):
If SLA is unavailable, FDM printing can still yield solid results with proper settings.

• Enable adaptive layer heights; this allows for smoother transitions on mouse buttons.
• If you have a Multifilament System (AMS), use PETG as a support interface for PLA.
• If no AMS is available, you can manually swap filament from PLA to PETG and back to PLA once the interface finishes.
• If FDM printing, be extremely careful and patient when removing supports.

Pros: Accessible and affordable.
Cons: Rougher surface, heavier finish, and may require sanding near button areas.

Recommended Printing Service:
If you don’t have access to printers, I highly recommend using JLC3DP. They offer a wide range of materials and technologies, including SLA and SLS.

• SLA: Ideal for smooth, detailed finishes and precise tolerances (Recommended: JLC Black Resin).
• SLS: Great for a rougher, more textured finish with slightly higher durability (Recommended: 3201PA-F Nylon).

Note: I am not affiliated with JLC3DP; I just highly recommend their services.

Assembly Instructions:

Follow the steps below to assemble the mouse once all printed components are ready. Be extremely careful when handling the ribbon cable. The instructions below are for a different mod, but it is the same procedure.

Note: Video assembly coming!