Sliding Vents Riser With Led V2 by liljohn406

liljohn406

3D Printer>3D Printer Accessories

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Print Profile(6)

All

P1S

P1P

X1 Carbon

X1E

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Designer

19 h

6 plates

4.8(72)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill,Several small changes.

20.3 h

6 plates

4.8(15)

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill Fixed Slider Length

19.1 h

6 plates

4.9(12)

tpu gaskets .16 ,100% infill

8.7 h

5 plates

4.9(7)

Click to see more

Boost

219

405

221

890

1.8 k

Released

Description

Easy print. Easy assembly. Only support needed on nameplate.

I have updated my original model based on user comments and refining the original model. (Seen here https://makerworld.com/en/models/68029#profileId-72144) (This is still the same I used a led strip that is powered by USB and plugged it in the 5V plug behind the screen on my P1P/P1S. There are access holes on both sides to run cabling/led strip. Open pocket behind logo to stash some lights to illuminate it. Vents only on the sides with a sliding doors built in. Which are held down by the glass. Front logo is a seperate piece to save time and filament. Only two color changes this way opposed too many if it is part of the model. Picture was printed in Bambu Matte Black and Elegoo Neon green since Bambu has had filament stock issues lately) That one still works great, but since I created it in my earlier stages of learning modeling it was to difficult to make changes.

So I decided to create a new one. What is different with this compared to the V1. Well I have made the tolerances around the logo nameplate better and also made it larger. I have moved the led strip from down low, to up higher on a ring that is now further out in the center. Helps keep the lights from shining in the camera. Plus more light. I have created a blank faceplate that you can add text too in Bambu Studio (or your preferred slicer) so you can have a custom nameplate if you don't want the included Bambu Labs one. I have also included two additional rear sections with holes in them if you use it on X1C and need to run your LED cabling out the back. Also the whole thing is about 5mm taller just to try and get the glass further away from the bowden tube. I didnt want to make it much taller.

The way I assembled it by sanding the mating surfaces flat, just to get rid of the squish. Then i used a drop of glue on each hole on piece then inserted the pegs then put a drop a glue on the protruding pegs and assembled the two pieces together. Don't use too much just a drop, don't want it running out and ruing the outside of the print. I just repeated the process until all 4 main pieces were assembled. Then I took it and put it on the printer and installed the glass top. I let is sit like that until the glue set up. That way it would dry square. The glass is tight at first but I have noticed with many of my PLA prints they tend to loosen up after a bit. Thanks again.

**ALSO CHECK OUT MY RISER DRAWER SYSTEM HERE** https://makerworld.com/en/models/185440#profileId-204184

Thanks again

Comment & Rating (221)

@Altarie

Hello Designer :) .. thanks for a great model! im having abit of trouble making the sides of the model, im trying to make it in Overture black PETG. but i get these knits on the top right side of the vent holes both on the inside and outside on the model, but ONLY on the RIGHT side? Any idea of how to fix it? The PETG has been dried 24 hours. i slowed speeds down on outer walls and accleration as well.

(Edited)

The designer has replied

@liljohn406

Unfortunately I don't print much with PETG and not 100 percent sure what would be causing that. You have done what I did in my V1 model which is slow down outer wall speed. Which type of infill did you use? It almost looks like it is overextruding once it jumps the upper gap. I am unsure of the fix for this. Maybe someone more knowledgeable with PETG and 3d printing will chime in to help. sorry I couldn't be of more help.

@Altarie

Replying to @liljohn406 :

Hello Liljohn406 :) I did some slow downs on speeds and got a good result! Im using Gyroid infill. so i wanted to share my speed settings and a picture of the result with all of you :)

@liljohn406

Replying to @Altarie :

Awesome thanks for sharing. I wonder if I were too maybe inset the sliders a bit further into the model if that would help with the "bulge" that happens after the print head jumps over the gap. Making it have a bit of infill might help relieve some of the over extrusion. because even with PLA I noticed it on my previous model. Possibly something to consider if I decide to make V3 version. Outside of that I am pretty happy with the way this one turned out. Other that the pegs and holes having tolerance issues for some. But I really prefer that method personally opposed to dovetails because I feel you have to have even more accurate tolerances to make those a tight fit. Especially on such a tall/wide model. Plus they are way to hard to sand the surfaces to perfect the fitment after the print. Easy enough to sand the pegs down a bit to get a good fit if things are to tight. At least that's the way I look at it.

@oOXoROo

Hi, how do you manage to print in 20,3h? I have 26h on my side

The designer has replied

@liljohn406

Not sure. Which printer are you using? Which profile are you using? Plate 6 is optional just needed if you have a X1C and want to swap either the back left or right piece with one with a hole to run cabling out the back since it doesn't have a 5V plug up front by the screen like the P1P/P1S do. Here's a screenshot of my print profile loaded into bambu studio. 19.1/hr with plate 6 included

@oOXoROo

Replying to @liljohn406 :

I don't know what happened yesterday when I put the file in Bambu Studio...I have a X1C. But today, I load the file and it says 17h28m...and I don't have a clue why because I haven't changed much since yesterday...I had around 7h for plate 1, 2 and 6, now I have under 5h...again, no clue why, so basically, forget about my comment, and thank you for this file, it's awesome. I have printed plate 3, 4 and 5 so far, launching plate 1 right now.

@liljohn406

Awesome. Glad it worked itself out. Glad you like it.

@Reminds

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill,Several small changes.

Printed perfectly - absolutely love the riser, used some aluminum LED profiles with diffusor to make the build more rigid and the light more even. Still need to print the side drawer mount so I can get rid of my gridfinity faceplate that is blocking the logo.

@liljohn406

Awesome, glad you like it. Thanks for posting the pic.

@Asakiro

Would you mind sharing the Led profiles? Like some installing pictures or product link.. that would be great, because i'm only missing some kind of diffusor for this great riser 😁

@Reminds

Replying to @Asakiro :

sure no worries: LED profiles I used: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/gp/product/B0BZNYBDZL LED strip I used: https://www.amazon.de/-/en/PAUTIX-Lighting-Project-Connector-Included/dp/B0B9SBGQ76/

@cblte

It came out nicely, printed in 3DJake ecoPLA black. In the end, I chose to go with the designer's front plate, and it looks really excellent. The one I printed in white with blue text failed, but it was not a big deal, as the blue was so dense that no light could come through. I do want to mention a couple of things I encountered: - The glass top plate did not fit into it. Either the PLA shrank, the printer was inaccurate, the glass plate got bigger, or the measurements were not correct. I had to pull the front and back parts apart by at least 1mm to make enough room for the glass plate to fit. (Unfortunately, stupid as I am, I did not check before installing the lights, so I had to rewire everything a second time, but that is just me. 🤷) - As mentioned above, the whole square is a bit "loose" on the top, and I can move it by 1-2mm left and right. Might be tolerances? Maybe I will print it again, using 101% scale for all parts. - As someone else also mentioned, the vent sliders are a bit too short at the end where the handle is. Adding 3-4mm next to the handle could help in closing the vents without the need to look at them when closing. Besides those things, I printed all the parts one by one. I placed the connection sticks flat on the ground and spent about 30 minutes sanding the brim off, although they did not want to stay on the B Plate during printing. I really like it. It's easy, no screws, no magnets, no glue, just KISS! And there's so much more light now. I also attached two images taken in the dark. Looks great! I still need to buy another LED light strip. The one I used seems not to hold up long enough when it's getting warm inside. Any recommendations are appreciated. Thank you for reading all the way up to here, and happy printing. 🖖

The designer has replied

@liljohn406

Looks great!! I have thought about making a couple shims to help with the front end of the sliders. may a 2, 3, 4mm variance just because like what you experienced dimensional accuracy can vary by printer/setting/type or brand of filament. That's sorta why I left a gap in the front, figured it would be better to have a bit of wiggle room. The way I assembled it by sanding the flat mating surfaces flat, just to get rid of the squish. Then i used a drop of glue on each hole on piece then inserted the pegs (once again I tried to leave a bit of wiggle room on the model for variances) then put a drop a glue on the protruding pegs and assembled the two pieces together. I just repeated the process until all 4 main pieces were assembled. Then I took it and put it on the printer and installed the glass top. I let is sit like that until the glue set up. That way it would dry square. The glass is tight at first but I have noticed with many of my PLA prints they tend to loosen up after a bit. Thanks again. As far as leds I just usually use the cheapo battery powered ones found on Amazon. They have been running for months no problems.

@cblte

Replying to @liljohn406 :

Thank you for your comment. I have not yet printed something else with this black filament. I printed some calibration cats with sunlight PLA+ in different sizes and the measurement where all within the 0.1-0.3mm. I also did check the model and the printed piece. It seems that the black filament shrunk a bit. Which is of course NOT your fault. Everything is holding fine even without glue! So yes. Great model. Recommend printing. I would just leave an advice, maybe in your description to check if the Glas fits before sticking everything together and installing the light :-) To prevent people from the same mistake and work I had gone through.

@Gotlube

Replying to @liljohn406 :

i did the shims after reading this comment 5x20x3.8 is what worked for me , others may be different but they worked great , good idea/1

@the3dmcgee

This part that connect the front and covers the signage is the square pegs are too long, the hole it 8mm and your poet on each end is 10 mm

The designer has replied

@liljohn406

I updated my print file with the fix a while back after I noticed the fitment issues. The updated led cover is now only 8mm tall overall. Which means the pegs should be 6mm tall now. Thanks

@the3dmcgee

Replying to @liljohn406 :

Guess I was slow to get to print it, I will pull the new one down today just to make sure! Thanks

@liljohn406

Replying to @the3dmcgee :

No problem! Let me know if it works for you.

@Gotlube

Never got around to rating and posting photos but here is the completed unit .. it is a great design .. I did add a recess to the top cover for glass bolts and made a TPU gasket that has light deflector to keep lights on plate and not in your eyes .. great work!

@cblte

Nice. This looks so cool. How did you manage to get white and the green logos? I would like to get the logos green and the text in orange. But the first four layers seem to be green as well, so I am not sure how it will look when I paint that. I will try the base layers in white and then see what happens. More than a bit of filament cant be wasted, right?

@Gotlube

Replying to @cblte :

I just painted it that way in the slicer and it worked .. was my first multicolor print lol

@mcginnis83

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill

Perfect upgrade my P1S, thanks :-)

(Edited)

@PlasticPixel

the name is awesome!!!

@DenoD

Hey John, This fantastic man! It looks fantastic with the LED lights and the Bambu Lab sign on top. If I may suggest one thing that would be to make the green slides a little bit longer on the side of the grip, I believe 3,5mm longer would make it stop the slide when all holes are closed, see attached pictures where you can see what I mean. Now it slides a little bit further and so opening the holes a little bit. But other than that it is fantastic!

(Edited)

@user_3992255154

Print Profile

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 20% infill,Several small changes.

Everything fine. I used PETG, PLA and TPU.

@user_3992255154

I like it !!!

License

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