Hey!

At some point I bought myself a split keyboard kit. I decided to go with Corne Chocolate version MX spaced since that was the only one available on 42keebs website that also suited my needs: fewer keys, low profile since I am tired of MX switches. After building it and some usage I considered that the open nature of the kit doesn't suit me, I had big 850mah batteries and I couldn't place them properly and I also hated that the nice views where asymmetric.

That's how the idea of building an enclosure started. The enclosure takes in consideration an already installed power switch that will be hidden and always on, replaced by a DIP switch, and also some display pins that are already installed and left on the board. I was worried that the project wouldn't finish successfully so I decided to left the PCBs intact.

Printing Notes:

• the top, bottom and nice view protection files included are for the right part and can be mirrored to get the left part!

BOM:

• corne choc 40% kit MX spaced
• sunset kailh v1 choc tactile switches
• MBK Blank choc keycaps
• 2 x nice!nano v2
• 2 x pairs of mill max “315” Sockets for Pro Micro
• 2 x pairs of mill max “3320” Pins for Pro Micro
• 2 x nice!view
• 2 x 1P DIP switch (source RO-this is where I sourced them from)(source Aliexpress)
• 12 x M2.5 heat insert short (6 for each side)
• 10 x M2.5x10mm flat head screws(5 for each side)
• 2 x M2.5x18mm(source RO-this is where I sourced them from)(source EU)(for nice!view protections)
• 2 x 850mAh 3.7V Li-Po batteries with JST cables (dimensions 3.4x49x64.5mm)
• some 1mm diameter cable(I used some cables from an old mouse cable so I have no idea where to source that from)
• one empty bottle of transparent PETG for the nice!view protection, couldn't find acrylics or transparent stuff near me so I improvised

Some notes:

• since the kit does support out of the box only 4 pins displays and nice!view has 5, I did some holes in the support plates to connect a wire to P0.06/006 of the nice!nano
• there are six holes in the support plate under the display pin holes, those are to connect 4 wires to the already installed display socket, get the wires through the holes and connect them to the other cables that come from the display, you can use only one set for that if you do some measurements(I didn't). If I would start the project again I would definitely solder the wires directly on the back of the PCB display holes and don't do holes on that side, easier and cleaner.
• the displays are also connected with 5 wires that go to the lateral of the MCU and also to the hole at the edge of the support plates.
• I soldered the boost pins on the controller to boost the charging speed from 100mAh to 500mAh. This was only safe because I have batteries with >500mAh capacity, doing that for <500mAh batteries will make the batteries explode(that's what I read).
• the default power switch is burried in the enclosure and always on since I replaced it with some 1p DIP switch.

Disclaimer:

• I am not responsible for any damage you do to your components or any damage produced by printing the listed 3D models or following the instructions provided. Use at your own risk.