Minute/Degree guide for leveling bed

Minute/Degree guide for leveling bed

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X1 Carbon
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
45 min
1 plate

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Description

The following is a leveling tool that goes hand in hand with Klippers Screw tilt adjust bed leveling feature. This may also work with any other leveling plugin that uses hours and minutes as the unit of measure for rotation. You should already have this set up to probe each screw location before running the calibration. This was originally created for the Sovol SV06 Plus since most of the leveling guides out there only use an M3 screw while the SV06 uses an M4 for its screws.

 

I have gone ahead and added a Degree version of the guide as well as an M3 version of the center lock. I assume it would work the same but have not tested this. Should work with plugins or macros that give degrees as the unit of measure for rotations.

 

If you're using a Bambu or any other printer capable of multi-color then just use the 3MF as it's already color-painted for you. All you have to do is update the file with your colors and it should be good to go. If you are not using a multi-color printer then I suggest simply grabbing a Sharpie and coloring in the arrow as well as the top markers/numbers on the MinuteMarker. You can also put in a filament change or pause around layer 36 to change to a different color filament for the MinuteMarker.

 

If you decide to use your own settings I strongly suggest you use these options to get the best quality on the numbers without switching to a .2 nozzle:

 

  • Line width of .4mm on all accounts (outer, inner, infill)
  • Arachne wall generator with the minimum wall width lowered to 80%
  • Only one layer on both top and bottom will give you a cleaner look

If you plan on laying this down on a hotbed I suggest printing in PETG so it doesn't warp from the heat, otherwise use a long hex allen wrench to turn the screw while holding the tool in your hand which is what I do

 

Why use this:

I made this tool for the sole reason of sanity. You see the SV06 Plus uses a 300mm print bed that tends to come warped. Unfortunately, it also happens to be a fixed bed and the only way to get a good leveled bed is to do the popular Silicone bed mod that are usually done on Prusa's printers. After switching over to the silicone mounts I realized that it was taking me forever to level the bed, mainly because I was eyeballing how much I had to go up or down according to the results of the bed mesh. I decided to add the Screw tilt feature to save myself from doing the 30 meshes but then I ran into the issue where I wasn't doing the rotations as accurately as I wanted to. Finally, I decided to make this little tool and in doing so I managed to go from a .349 deviation range to a .195 deviation range in just one go. This was after adjusting all my screws tightly and starting from scratch too. I'm hoping you can use this to make leveling the bed a breeze as it has for me.

 

How to use:

Minute guide version: The guide is simple but effective to use. Each big tally mark equates to 5 minutes, while the smaller ones equate to 1 minute. When running the Screw calibration it should spit out a list of all your screw locations and the required rotations needed. An example of what the output will look like will be uploaded. I suggest you take a picture of the calculations and proceed to your printer. Take the TurningDisk and place it into the MinuteMarker with the arrow pointing up. Add the center lock ( should fit snugly but may need to hammer it in). The completed setup should look like what I uploaded and turn smoothly. Now take a look at the picture you took of the measurements Klipper gave you and make your adjustments. When Klipper tells you CCW 00:17, that means that you should turn Counter ClockWise by 17 minutes or CW 01:30 would mean ClockWise by an hour (full rotation) and 30 minutes (half turn). Congrats you did it! You can now do a bed mesh to see what your bed level looks like. Another option would be to run the screw tilt calibration again to get it more dialed in.

 

Degree Dial version: This in theory should work exactly the same as the minute version with the only difference being that each big tally equates to 30 degrees and the small tallies equate to 6 degrees. This version would be more useful for the octoprint bed leveling as I believe it uses measurement in degrees rather than minutes. For example, octoprint might tell you that one screw needs to be turned clockwise 240 degrees or Counter ClockWise 60 degrees.

 

Tolerance issues may be solved by lowering your filament flow to .95

 

If you have any issues let me know and I'll try my best to help. Any feedback on improvement of the model is appreciated.

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