I wanted a free-standing paper towel holder that both kept things tidy and made it easy to tear one sheet at a time.

This design went through a few iterations and failures until I got something that works well. I printed it in Prusament Yellow gold, but i'll probably re-print in another color, because i've decided I don't love this color.

Detailed instructions are below. Don't be scared by the detail though, this is not a hard print to make and assemble… I just want people to succeed the first time!

Printing Instructions:

Base choice (choose one)

• Stock base
• 4 Hole Hold-down version
  • Designed to screw into something heavy or stable to give the holder extra heft, or to secure it to something. Enables easier 1-handed use.

Rod Variations:

• Stock rod
  • Total height with base = 240 mm.
• Extension Rod
  • Extra spacing rod to bring total height to 320 mm, above most standard paper towel rolls. Print this in addition to stock if you want the center pillar to rise above the towels.

Filament choice

The flex required in the arm is modeled and tested with PETG filament (Prusament, to be specific). That flex might not work with something stiffer like PLA, and you wouldn't want to use PLA anyways, as the creep over time would weaken the mechanism. I strongly recommend using PETG or another creep-resistant filament (not nylon).

Filament for the base should something reasonably stiff. I used PETG, but PLA might also be fine here.

General print settings for success

Except where noted below, I recommend the following settings:

• 0.16 mm or 0.2 mm layer height
• 3-4 walls, except for arc arm, which should be printed solid with all walls (set to ~6-8 should be fine)
• 15% cubic or gyroid infill, as you please
• 4-6 top/bottom layers, as you wish. I used 5 at 0.16 mm height.

Modifier objects to increase base part strength (important!)

Early versions of this design suffered from buckling of the base (it was too thin vertically and not reinforced). This improved version has special printing modifier objects for the base which help keep the base flat by providing structural rigidity. Each 3MF “base” file has these modifier objects built in, but you may not see them at first. Using these modifiers is easy, follow these instructions:

• Load your base 3MF file of choice, when you see this dialog, be sure to click “yes” to load everything locked together. Orient the base flat side down and the modifiers will stay in the right place.
  • 
• Change the walls setting for all the modifier objects (all EXCEPT the big base). In my slicer (Orcaslicer), I just select all the objects called modifier and increase the walls to 5 or 6.. the setting looks like this:
  • 
• Slice and look at the preview, and you should now see this in the middle of your slice (this example is the 4-holes base), which will cause the base to be strongly reinforced against any buckling from the tension arm/pillar interaction:
  • 

Print orientation

Print orientation can matter for several of the other parts, and i've constructed a plate picture here to show how everything should be oriented for success. I strongly recommend using these orientations as they have been tested. I did not need brims on any parts using PETG on my X1C with a textured PEI bed at 75 degrees, but your experience may vary depending on printer and filament. Use your best judgement here.

Assembly Instructions:

• Requires a tiny bit of glue for the inserts (superglue/gorilla/whatever).
• Requires one 30 x 3 mm metric screw and 1x matching nut for the hinge.
  • Alternatively you may use paperclip cutoffs, or a glued in nail, or any metal rod that fits in the holes and allows rotation. A toothpick would probably also work :). If the hole size is not to your liking, there are STEP files here for easy modification to make hole sizes to suit your need.

1. Insert the two little inserts (with holes) into the curved pusher head. These parts are taper-fit and they don't have to bottom out completely.
   • Secure these with glue after confirming that you have free rotation and clearance with your installed 30 x 3 mm screw (or substitute).
2. Insert arm between the installed inserts and put the 30 x 3 mm screw (or substitute) in place as shown in the photo. Secure with the nut on the other side so the ‘axle’ doesn't fall out.
3. Push the opposite side of the arm into the base. It should fit relatively snugly and you may have to push it in to bottom it out. You may secure with glue if you like, but this is not needed.
4. Screw in the rod into the base until it bottoms out. If you printed the shorter extender part, then put this one in the base first and the rod into that. That's it!
   

Disclaimer , the title is a play on words and pokes fun at the common brand name for some pens.. however this model is not at all associated with that company .. please don’t sue me :)