Rotating Light Display

IP Report

Rotating Light Display

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Print Profile(1)

All
P1S
P1P
X1
X1 Carbon
X1E
A1

0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
Designer
10.9 h
2 plates
5.0(1)

Open in Bambu Studio
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278
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Released

Description

This display casts light up from the base to illuminate your favorite models from multiple angles. This is intended for models you may be displaying on a shelf or above eye level where this effect is most effective.  This is a subtle effect that you can see in action in this video: 

 

This design uses the Multimedia Switch model from the Maker's Supply Electronics Bundle. This allows both the power and motor speed to be controlled by a single dial and is part of the helpful instructions and models that are continually being added to Maker's Supply listings.

 

Choosing Models

 

The lights in this display come from the bottom up at an angle towards the center.

  • Thin models or models that get larger higher up can work well.
  • You may need to adjust the positioning of the model - centered doesn't always produce the best effect. 

For this reason, models with wide bases won't see much of the effect (since the lights will be blocked by their base). Please see this example of models that would or would not be good fits for this approach.

Although the models shown in my photos are not included in the 3MF, they can be downloaded for free at the following locations along with some that I tested but did not photograph. Please note the height in millimeters that I used for the photographed models.

  1. Bust of Nefertiti as displayed at the Neues Museum, Berlin: 3D model available from Scan the World. Printed at a height of 130mm.
  2. Horseman at Maria-Theresia-Platz in Vienna by Theodor Friedl: Model available from Scan the World. Printed at a height of 144mm.
  3. Seated Virgin Mary by Germain Pilon: This is an example of a model that could work sometimes but isn't ideal. The wide base of the model blocks significant light but the model is not very deep. Because of this, it can be moved o the back of the base so that more light can be received. Displayed in the Église Saint-Paul-Saint-Louis in Paris, this model available from Scan the World. Printed at a height of 130mm.
  4. Rondanini Pieta by Michelangelo: Incomplete at the time of his death, this sculpture has an interesting, mannerist style compared to his earlier work. Model available from Scan the World. Printed at a height of 162mm.
  5. Sekhmet: Model available from the British Museum. Printed at a height of 146mm.
  6. This is an example of a model that would not work well with this base. Because of the width of the bottom of the model and narrow top, little to no light would be cast on the model.

Choosing & Display Location

  • Because the lights are visible through the holes in the base, it's best to position this display at or higher than eye level.
  • If you'd like to display the base lower and reduce the amount of direct lighting, an alternative decorative base cover is included with smaller holes for the light. Note that this will reduce the amount of light shining on your models.

Printed Parts

  1. Decorative Base
  2. Electronics Base
  3. Rotating Ring
  4. Multimedia Spring Caps
  5. Multimedia Base
  6. Multimedia Caps (2)
  7. Dial
  8. Small Gear
  9. Motor Cover

Assembly Instructions

Remove supports from the electronics base - they are only for the 3 screw holes on the bottom.
 

Attach an SH 1.0 wire to the motor and place it in the electronics base as shown. Add the small gear on top and then attach the motor cover with two screws.
 

Attach the power distribution board as shown using two screws. It may be easier to attach all but the USB power cord before screwing this piece into place - reference the next step for wire order.

Attach the SH 1.0 wires and jumpers to the power distribution board as shown.
 

It is possible to use the potentiometer for the LED instead of the motor. If you choose this option, you will be able to adjust the brightness of the LED but the motor will always run at full speed.

Attach the multimedia base to the electronics base as shown with 4 screws.
 

Attach an SH 1.0 power cord to the power switch and attach it to the multimedia base with 4 screws.
 

Insert the stainless steel rods as shown, add spring over each one and then cover with the spring cap as shown.

Attach the SH 1.0 wire to the potentiometer and place it on top of the stainless steel rods. Note that the wire should face 'up' because this component is not symmetrical.
 

Attach the multimedia caps to the base using 2 screws for each cap.

Press the bearing into the rotating ring. This will be a snug fit and it's important that the bearing be pressed in fully so that the ring rotates evenly. 

The following process will be completed twice - once for each of the COB LEDs.

  1. Attach an SH 1.0 wire from the flat side of the slip ring to the LED. 
  2. Angle the PCB of the LED so that the black side is up and slide it into the space as shown.
  3. Starting from the PCB end, press the LED into the channel.
    Try to orient the lighter, front side of the LED out when possible but don't put too much pressure on the LEDs or they can be broken - it's safter to let them bend the way they want to vs. forcing it.
  4. Feed the SH 1.0 wire through the channel towards the middle of the ring. You will need to use some thin tape to hold it in place.

Repeat the process for the other LED.

Feed the SH 1.0 wires from the slip ring through the channel in the middle of the electronics base. There isn't a lot of extra room in this process so the rotating ring will need to be close to the electronics base.
 

Attach the SH 1.0 wires from the slip ring to the power distribution board.

Press the rotating ring onto the electronics base.
 

Be sure that the gears are aligned before applying pressure.
 

The bearing should be pressed fully into place so that the ring will rotate levelly. 
 

Press the slip ring down into the cavity as shown.

Feed the USB power cable through the back of the decorative base and plug it into the power distribution board.

Lower the decorative base onto the electronics base using the alignment peg.
 

You will need to angle the potentiometer in first and through the hole in the front of the decorative base.
 

Press the dial onto the end of the potentiometer.

Secure the electronics base to the decorative base using three screws.

Printing Tips

  • This model was tested using Bambu Wood, Basic & Galaxy PLA.
  • Using a darker color for the base can help reduce light 'leaking' through parts of the base and glowing where it shouldn't.
  • As photographed, all models were printed on a P1S with a 0.4mm nozzle with the exception of Nefertiti which was printed on an A1 Mini with an 0.2mm nozzle.

 

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Bill of Materials

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Comment & Rating (15)

(0/5000)

This is super cool! Though my only concern are the COB LED strips, that are basically lighting half as much, by also shining down into the plastic (versus all upwards). I would rather a solution with two wire LEDs and a little soldering, but that's prolly more advanced work (I'd love to use Black Light LEDs for something like this, with a photoreactive filament, like fluorescent PETG). Still gonna consider this, though, as the engineering is great!
The designer has replied
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that's all interesting idea about black light LEDs. I'll be putting out a new version in a few weeks with a different mechanism for the LEDs
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Replying to @MaKim :
Like, Even in like a "capsule" sorta situation. I mean, I'm sorta coming up with prop ideas, and sometimes mash prints together, or split some apart. I've been looking for a "rotating light" solution in general, and this kit looks great! I'll be eagerly waiting your next... oh I should follow you.
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Wife will love this for her dolls! Thanks!
The designer has replied
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that's great to hear! I'll also have a new version coming out in a couple of weeks that uses a different mechanism to put the lights more to the side
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Very cool design
The designer has replied
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thanks!
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You're an absolute genius, fantastic work
The designer has replied
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that's kind - thank you!
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OooOOoOoOoooooo I LOVE the concept! Very nice! I have a couple models I may try this with!
The designer has replied
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thanks! I'm going to try and finish another similar concept within the next couple of weeks and will post it
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Question because this looks really cool. but why not just use chasing LEDS or COBs glues to the base of the stand? Is this producing a brighter effect?
The designer has replied
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I think that's a valid approach and could work well! in this case I was wanting to experiment with using a mechanical motion and a slip ring - just something to learn
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!
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0.2mm layer, 2 walls, 15% infill
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