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PUSHING FDM SCALE MODEL QUALITY
PUSHING FDM SCALE MODEL QUALITY

SURFACE FINISHING AND PAINTING OF THE SPACE SHUTTLE ORBITER

BUILD-A-ROCKET KIT

 

In this project, we set out to demonstrate how far the visual quality of an FDM-printed scale model can be taken with proper post-processing.

The subject is the Space Shuttle Orbiter from my BUILD-A-ROCKET kit, printed by me on a Bambu Lab A1 and professionally finished and painted by my friend and scale modeling specialist Flavio Scheiner.

The goal was to achieve a surface and paint quality comparable to injection-molded scale models, while starting from a standard PLA FDM print.

 

1. Surface Preparation

The process began with a complete sanding of all printed parts to remove layer lines and small surface imperfections inherent to FDM printing.

After the initial sanding, a surface leveling putty was applied:

  • Product used: Tamiya Putty White
  • Purpose: Fill micro-gaps, seams, and remaining print artifacts
  • After drying, all areas were sanded again to restore clean geometry and smooth transitions.

 

2. Priming

Once the surface was uniform, the model received:

  • Three coats of primer, applied with an airbrush
  • After each coat:
    • Full drying
    • Light sanding with very fine grit sandpaper

This step is critical to:

  • Reveal any remaining defects
  • Ensure perfect paint adhesion
  • Create a homogeneous surface tone for the final colors

 

3. Base Paint Application

With the surface fully prepared, the painting stage began:

  • Paint type: Automotive polyester paint
  • Application method: Airbrush

The sequence:

  1. White base color applied first (main body color of the Orbiter)
  2. After curing, the model was carefully masked for the black areas
  3. Black polyester paint applied using precision masks, including:
    • Standard masking tapes
    • Flexible curve masking tape for complex contours

 

4. Details and Panel Lines

To reproduce the characteristic panel layout of the Space Shuttle:

  • Panel lines were added using thin decal strips
  • Fine details were enhanced with:
    • Ultra-fine brushwork for small markings and corrections

This step brings scale realism and breaks the uniformity of large white surfaces.

 

5. Clear Coat and Final Finish

The final protection and surface refinement consisted of:

  • 4 to 5 coats of semi-gloss automotive polyester clear coat
  • After full curing:
    • Light wet sanding using water sandpaper, grit 5000 or finer
    • Always sanding with the surface fully wet to avoid scratches and achieve optical smoothness

This final step unified all layers, protected the decals, and delivered a scale-accurate sheen.

 

Final Result

The combination of:

  • High-quality FDM printing on the Bambu Lab A1
  • Professional surface preparation
  • Automotive-grade paints
  • Precision masking and detailing

resulted in a Space Shuttle Orbiter that visually rivals traditional plastic scale models, proving that FDM printing, when paired with advanced finishing techniques, can reach an exceptional level of realism.

 

 

Special thanks to Flavio Scheiner (Instagram @flavio_scheiner) for the outstanding modeling, painting, and finishing work that brought the BUILD-A-ROCKET Orbiter to this level of quality.

 

Thank you.

(Edited)
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@nibotnibot That is really cool! now I wish i could collect posts.
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@mauricioduarte Thanks
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@ranze davvero bella complimenti, volevo chiederti con che software l'hai realizzato. sfrutto l'occasione anche per chiedere un parere del mio modello (accetto molto volentieri ogni tipo di critica): https://makerworld.com/it/models/2652673-porsche-911-930-turbo-1975#profileId-2932866 buona serata
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@Penkyu I do wet sanding, but don't have an airbrush and due to health limitations I can't really go outside to use those. After wet sanding, I apply gesso (not the spray version) which fills in microgaps and covers remaining layer lines. After that dries I use acrylic markers to paint (I'll try brushes soon) then use ArtResin after all of it is dry and complete to add a nice protective somewhat glossy coat. If I want super glossy I apply fingernail top polish before the ArtResin (make sure the top coat doesn't have acetone or has very little acetone). Fingernail top coat that can be cured with a cheap 395nm UV flashlight works rather well. Clear glitter nail polish can be a fun effect too!
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@mauricioduarte Very interesting technique, thank you for sharing.
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@terrypi Vary nice
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@mauricioduarte Thanks
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